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Post by ramblinman on May 15, 2015 20:26:19 GMT -5
i've never had so much problem with oil leaking. i been using permatex oil resistant gasket maker with no problem until recently so either i'm doing something wrong or this tube is too old.  what do you use (brand) and what procedure do you follow? |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 15, 2015 20:48:38 GMT -5
I use the proper gasket and some sort of sealant if required... For most of the block, I use copper gasket spray and for something like the valve cover If I add any sealant, it would be high temp silicone.
I hate gasket maker. I would only use it, as an absolute last resort. A valve cover gasket cost under a buck and most of the time doesn't require any sealant.
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Post by ramblinman on May 16, 2015 5:37:58 GMT -5
the one thing i don't like about ultra black is small pieces will get in the oil and possibly clog the oil flow. it's funny because it's oil resistant property is also the reason i like it but this tube has gone bad or maybe i'm doing something wrong.
after researching more i think i'm going to stop using ultra black and try permatex the right stuff.
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Post by SylvreKat on May 17, 2015 0:06:00 GMT -5
One of my car mechanic's minions told me I could try an egg when they discovered the wagon's head gasket was at least leaking.... As for brand, I'd probably use Eggland's Best.  Seems like they're fairly cheap, yet hard boil nicely with few split shells. Good size, too. And no chick bits inside. >'Kat |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 17, 2015 12:26:05 GMT -5
the one thing i don't like about ultra black is small pieces will get in the oil and possibly clog the oil flow. it's funny because it's oil resistant property is also the reason i like it but this tube has gone bad or maybe i'm doing something wrong. after researching more i think i'm going to stop using ultra black and try permatex the right stuff. There's a couple things I don't like about gasket maker.... For one, if you don't get right, it's gonna leak... On that note, I found that getting it "right" is more artwork than a mechanics repair... Second thing I don't like is clean up/ removal for when you have to work on the item again... I've been lucky at times and removed the after product as whole gasket, other times it came off in about 198,976,098,124,496³ pieces.  |
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Post by rdhood on May 17, 2015 17:16:42 GMT -5
I use the proper gasket and some sort of sealant if required........... A valve cover gasket cost under a buck and most of the time doesn't require any sealant. This |
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Post by rockynv on May 18, 2015 4:16:51 GMT -5
You should replace the valve cover gasket when you do a valve adjustment since it is a rubber o-ring that flattens and gets hard from the heat of an air cooled engine. The lightest smear of a quality RTV sealant is all that should be used with the new gasket to fill in any imperfections in the machined aluminum surfaces especially if you scratched up the mating surfaces when removing any old sealant.
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Post by rockynv on May 18, 2015 4:19:26 GMT -5
One of my car mechanic's minions told me I could try an egg when they discovered the wagon's head gasket was at least leaking.... As for brand, I'd probably use Eggland's Best. Seems like they're fairly cheap, yet hard boil nicely with few split shells. Good size, too. And no chick bits inside. >'Kat Kat - That is to seal the water jacket on a water cooled engine not for a valve cover or air cooled engine block. You would only use the egg white if I recall. |
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Post by hillbillybob on May 18, 2015 5:04:16 GMT -5
Have to agree with rockynv.....use a new valve cover gasket on the valve cover. Twelve bucks gets you a ten pack of them on fleabay.
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Post by JR on May 18, 2015 7:12:34 GMT -5
Red high temp gasket maker silicone and a very thin film of it to seal any imperfections on the cover or gasket, don't need tons of it. In fact if the new gasket will seal without it I use nothing at all.
JR
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Post by rockynv on May 18, 2015 11:59:06 GMT -5
Red high temp gasket maker silicone and a very thin film of it to seal any imperfections on the cover or gasket, don't need tons of it. In fact if the new gasket will seal without it I use nothing at all. JR Yes if the mating surfaces are free of scratches then the new gasket by itself should do fine however once you mark the surfaces up then you start having leaks. |
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Post by JerryScript on May 18, 2015 14:34:19 GMT -5
The valve cover is not under pressure, and therefore does not need anything more than the rubber gasket that is stock.
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Post by rockynv on May 18, 2015 23:42:14 GMT -5
Actually there is moderate pressure especially when the engine is cold before the rings expand fully which is why there is a purge tube and a sealed screw in oil fill/dip stick. Some people mount a fuel filter on the purge tube in the vertical position above the valve cover to vent this pressure and capture any oil lost when excess pressure builds up blowing oil out of the valve cover vent so afterwards it can drain back in once the pressure is eliminated when the engine is shut down.
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Post by JerryScript on May 19, 2015 9:48:04 GMT -5
That is my point, the valve cover is vented and therefore not under pressure.
I'm one of those people with a re-routed breather tube with fuel filter zip tied to the frame under the rear of my seat.
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Post by cyborg on May 19, 2015 13:36:20 GMT -5
on almost everything that i work on i spray one side of the gasket with copper seal,,,then put it on the cover in the groove,,,after a few r&r's i renew with a fresh one,,,once i see a weep out it goes
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