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Post by scooter on Oct 11, 2014 13:27:22 GMT -5
Some time back I wrote a post about oil getting all over my engine bay. itistheride.boards.net/thread/6402/blowing-oil-messThank you all for your replies. I wanted to update you on this because I think I may have found the problem. You be the judge and tell me if you agree or not. Using gasket sealer really helped a lot, and really reduced the amount of oil leaking, but my valve cover always started leaking again, not as bad mind you, after a bit of running. I replaced all of the hoses and made sure nothing was clogged. This last time that I checked the valves, the exhaust valve was too tight AGAIN. I have adjusted the valves at least 4 times since I got the scooter in June. This last time, the little vent hose on top of the gy6 150cc was blown open, ripped at the outlet, perhaps indicating pressure issues. So, in an effort to reduce the time between valve clearance adjustments, I opened up the clearance on the exhaust side to .007 and I think .005 on the intake side. Now it's clicking as the rockers slam into the valve stems BUT, even after a week of running, I finally see NO OIL LEAK! Woohoo! I did some reading and found this scooterbbs.net/board/DCForumID11/6779.html where they discuss just such issues. "I have recently had a suspicion of mine confirmed by an independent source regarding a particularly common problem with many if not all, chinese GY6 125 and 150cc motors.
I have seen in the last year that a very large number of cases coming in for repair had problems related to the exhaust valve on these 2 valve 4 stroke motors. It has been extraordinarily common to have to adjust the exhaust valve in the first 5000 miles. We have seen it so frequently, we have become expert in finding they problem by looking for key symptoms.
First, loss of power over 35 mph, or the motor simply wheezing and acting like it had shut off, only to return to power once you release throttle, but again losing power at above 35 mph.
Second, really dirty plugs very early. This is also frequently accompanied by oil leaks under the bike, or more commonly, oil on hte floorboard or underfloorboard areas. This is from back pressure blowing oil out of the top vent on the valve cover."So I'm thinking this may have been the problem. Exhaust valve not closing properly, blowing air into the valve cover, blasting oil out of any place it could get out. What do you think? Sounds reasonable?
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 11, 2014 14:18:19 GMT -5
In regards to the valve problem, seems to me the easy choice would be to just buy a better head with better valves installed. I mean on the expensive side we are only talking about 100 bucks.
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Post by scooter on Oct 11, 2014 14:46:14 GMT -5
In regards to the valve problem, seems to me the easy choice would be to just buy a better head with better valves installed. I mean on the expensive side we are only talking about 100 bucks. I think you are right. It appears to be made of very soft metal. I already had to drill out the exhaust stud holes and re-tap them because they were stripped, and I personally stripped two valve cover bolt holes, and I'm pretty experienced with tightening things without damaging them. I can't remember the last time I stripped a thread. Been many years I am sure.
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 11, 2014 15:02:52 GMT -5
Another board member (Rocky) had a 2007 lance like mine and had similar issues with the soft metal that not only was the head made of but also the valves themselves. A better head can be found all over on ebay and many suppliers including but not limited to scrappydogscooters. I personally just opened a box from Scrappy that has their High Performance 58.5mm head in it and when compared to a stock head I can tell you the material that the valves and springs are made of are totally different. I had originally ordered their hand ported big valve head, but I guess since Buford quit they can't supply those heads anymore and really should take them off of their site. I plan on having the porting and polishing work done here by my father who still doesn't use a flow bench but does it by feel. I have personally witnessed him do this to many a V8 engine heads with great results so I trust that he knows what he's doing. I will have to take it to a machinist I know to have the deck surface millled a couple thousandths of an inch because I want 12-1 compression. But that's just me. I can have all this work do for pretty much nothing. The machinist wants a case of beer.
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Post by scooter on Oct 12, 2014 7:16:58 GMT -5
I will have to take it to a machinist I know to have the deck surface millled a couple thousandths of an inch because I want 12-1 compression. Setting your compression sounds pretty technical. Congrats on such a righteous mod! How did you decide on 12:1? What was the reasoning behind that number?
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 12, 2014 10:11:38 GMT -5
Increased compression adds HP, 12-1 is just about has high a compression you can have and still use pump gas plus octane boost. I'm going to have to do some research and find out if that high a compression iis even possible on these little motors. There are questions that need to be answered like clearance issues with the piston and valves. Then I don't even know how well the crank will hold up to such a high compression.
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Post by scooter on Oct 12, 2014 11:14:48 GMT -5
Increased compression adds HP, 12-1 is just about has high a compression you can have and still use pump gas plus octane boost. I'm going to have to do some research and find out if that high a compression iis even possible on these little motors. There are questions that need to be answered like clearance issues with the piston and valves. Then I don't even know how well the crank will hold up to such a high compression. I'm assuming you have something like the 157QMJ? That on is said to have a compression ratio of 8.8:1. 12 would be a 36% increase in pressure? Yeah I'm betting the crank will take a beating. I'm no mechanic though so I wouldn't know. Engine Displacement Power Bore x Stroke Compression Ratio 139QMB 49.5 cc 2. hp (2.20 kW) at 7,500 rpm 39 mm × 41.4 mm (1.54 in × 1.63 in) 10.5:1 152QMI 124.65 cc 6.8 hp (5.1 kW) at 7,000 rpm 52.4 mm × 57.8 mm (2.06 in × 2.28 in) 9.2:1 157QMJ 149.6 cc 8.6 hp (6.4 kW) at 7,000 rpm 57.4 mm × 57.8 mm (2.26 in × 2.28 in) 8.8:1
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 12, 2014 11:31:10 GMT -5
Increased compression adds HP, 12-1 is just about has high a compression you can have and still use pump gas plus octane boost. I'm going to have to do some research and find out if that high a compression iis even possible on these little motors. There are questions that need to be answered like clearance issues with the piston and valves. Then I don't even know how well the crank will hold up to such a high compression. I'm assuming you have something like the 157QMJ? That on is said to have a compression ratio of 8.8:1. 12 would be a 36% increase in pressure? Yeah I'm betting the crank will take a beating. I'm no mechanic though so I wouldn't know. Engine Displacement Power Bore x Stroke Compression Ratio 139QMB 49.5 cc 2. hp (2.20 kW) at 7,500 rpm 39 mm × 41.4 mm (1.54 in × 1.63 in) 10.5:1 152QMI 124.65 cc 6.8 hp (5.1 kW) at 7,000 rpm 52.4 mm × 57.8 mm (2.06 in × 2.28 in) 9.2:1 157QMJ 149.6 cc 8.6 hp (6.4 kW) at 7,000 rpm 57.4 mm × 57.8 mm (2.26 in × 2.28 in) 8.8:1 Thank you for those numbers! Yes I have the QMJ. Well if the crank I put in is of good enough material, forged and what not, it should do ok. But you have to consider the the rest of the bottom end... At worst I figure it will shorten the life span of the crank bearings and maybe put too much stress on the internals of the case. But it could just mean the difference of getting 15K miles out of the engine vs only getting 10K. Also this engine is kinda a test platform for when I add the 200cc B engine.
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