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Post by leecig on Sept 24, 2014 19:53:37 GMT -5
So I probably had a ~110 already. Nice to know though. The problem wasn't flooding, I don't think. I think it was starvation. Damned those misleading backfires! The reason I say this is, I just happened to notice after I got back that when I shut it off, the gas tank would flex/pop. So I took the cap off. BOOM!! Full throttle response back and snappy!  I've been taking pics. Check out this oil! Which reminds me. I have an oil leak  It drips on the bottom between the oil filter bolt and the oil drain bolt. I cleaned off the bottom part, but it looks like it's coming from more towards the top on the back of the engine. How hard are those gaskets to replace? I'm guessing variator, clutch, housing, (going from memory here) then the side of the engine? What if it's both sides? How hard is the other? Should I drop it and do both? Ok, on to the oil  Here's a crappy pic from where it drips. Pretty sure it's from the back though  Also, if anyone has a link to one of these? or maybe what models would fit mine?    |
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 24, 2014 20:04:11 GMT -5
Backfires are caused by LEAN conditions, and usually it is caused by a very bad air leak. Many times the most common cause it is leaking by the flange.
Alleyoop
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Post by leecig on Sept 24, 2014 20:43:37 GMT -5
Anywhere to find a wiring schematic? This thing looks like a pot of spaghetti  |
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Post by leecig on Sept 24, 2014 20:51:11 GMT -5
Backfires are caused by LEAN conditions, and usually it is caused by a very bad air leak. Many times the most common cause it is leaking by the flange. Alleyoop You are 100% correct. I don't know how it escaped me. Must have been the carb tuning guide that was posted. When I blipped the throttle it would dive then recover. I guess the backfire being able to be caused by either *(lean or rich)* and the guide had me believing it was rich. Carbs are a lot like Alice in Wonderland, if you know what I mean. I guess because it wasn't the tell-tale multiple popping, I was banking on rich. Again, trying to go by the guide and symptoms.I'm just glad I pin-pointed one of those "mystery" type problems before buying too much unneeded stuff. The gas cap IS vented on these, no? IMO, has to be. When I leave it on, it makes the vacuum in the tank cutting off the fuel, thus causing the lean condition. I'm still in *DIRE* need of a wiring diagram.. and igntion/lock set. I have a toggle switch wired to the solenoid right now for a starter  |
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 24, 2014 21:08:56 GMT -5
If you blip the throttle and it falls flat on it's face and then recovers it is Lean, when you crank the throttle open remember what your doing, you are letting in a lot of air all of a sudden and if not enough fuel it will fall flat on its face. What you may have been reading is the trick of the trade when your riding and you reach a certain speed doesn't matter where in the throttle range and it acts up on you . To find what the motor needs if it does not make any sounds just back off 1/8-1/4 on the throttle and hold it there. Then pay attention to what the motor does, IF it speeds up it is lean it is telling you it needs more fuel, IF it just settles down and runs good it is telling you it is to rich to much food As far as a wiring diagram for a particuliar scoot it is difficult ato find but all Chinese scoot are all basically the same so a generic diagram can and usually helps. They all have the same basic electricals, Stator, Pickup Coil, CDI, COIL, R/R for some lights and charging. The Electrical GURU is JR I am pretty good at it but not a GURU like JR. What you should do is Find what works and what does not work and also the WIRE colors are important some are usually specific for certain functions. So knowing what works and what does not work then things can be pinpointed to a certain area and seeing any wires disconnected or what not. Like a YELLOW AND GREEN wire are for your brake lights as well as when you squeeze the brakes it feeds voltage to the Solenoid and when you push the start button it grounds the Solenoid to complete the curcuit and it then sends 12volts to the starter. Alleyoop |
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Post by leecig on Sept 25, 2014 10:51:39 GMT -5
That makes sense. I'm officially back to hating carbs again  Upon some investigating, I already have a performance muffler!  Since the Uni is on the way, gonna have to go back and get another main jet. Maybe they'll just swap with me. Trying to decide how big to go.. So much info/experiences out there on the WWW |
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 25, 2014 11:50:31 GMT -5
Rule of thumb on jetting, if a Free Flow Filter is added, go up 2 sizes on the main jet, If a Free Flow Muffler is added go up 2 siz3es on the main jet. So if both are added main jet should be 4-5 sizes bigger. Example current main stock jet is 110 go to a 115 main if both filter and muffler are added, also Pilot jet leave at #35. Many the first thing on their minds is speed, and they believe dump a gallon of gas in the motor gets them power and speed. A lot of folk typically over jet a carb or over carb a motor and then complain it is slower than before and the motor does not run smooth and runs like crap. Yes, EFI's are great no doubt about it, the only thing is if they malfunction then it hits the pocket book really good. Alleyoop |
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Post by leecig on Sept 26, 2014 9:57:58 GMT -5
Oh yes, I agree. LEAN is MEAN - just can't overdo it. Got the starter button situation figured out. No one told me you had to hold the brake  Noticed it on the wiring schematic. Need a new switch for the right brake (light). I guess I'm growing close to putting the body on. I have a CDI on the way just because the spark plug boot/wire is missing, or it fell apart in my hands one, the end that goes into the coil. Went ahead and ordered the whole package. I feel like a recap, so let's see. I lose track easiily sometimes lol Oh yea, my cast came off yesterday! HAVE DONE:Cleaned carbs, installed 110 main Reset needle clip to leanest setting Ordered UNI Ordered Gates Kevlar 842-20-30 Troubleshot gas cap and ordered new one Ordered inline fuel filter Ordered CDI/coil/plug wire Ordered mirror Ordered brake switch Ordered 13g sliders NEED TO DOBuy 115 main Install main jet Tune needle circuit after installing main Double check idle circuit Inspect clutch/bell - I'm afraid it might be rusted and frozen Drain, refill, bleed brake lines. Fix slow oil leak from engine case - need to order gasket Buy ignition and lock setBuy windshield Install everything listed as "ordered" above A few questions:What's the general order of removal/installation of the plastic panels? An oil leak from the middle of the engine is probably gonna just need a new gasket right? Is it difficult to perform? Probably be best to do it know while the whole body is off, yea? Any suggestions on how to identify the correct ignition? The pictures on ads are a little hard to match. Number of wires be helpful in any way, or are they typically all the same just as long as it mounts? Pics above Has anyone ever modified their scoot to use the area where the airbox used to be for extra storage? Are you gettin' tired of me yet?  Also, what the heck is this thing?  |
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 26, 2014 12:19:52 GMT -5
Ignition you just have to try and match them for mounting and number of wires, as far as that piece at the bottom that goes on the AIR INLET of the CVT cover to get air into the CVT and keep big stuff out.
Alleyoop
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Post by leecig on Sept 26, 2014 16:02:39 GMT -5
Both sight windows on the brake reservoirs are broken...
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 26, 2014 16:22:46 GMT -5
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Post by leecig on Sept 27, 2014 10:41:43 GMT -5
I ordered a couple of new master cylinders. Brakes are important, and from what I'm seeing from the rest of this scooter, they probably weren't in great shape.
Wasn't but just a few more bucks than new sight glass
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..BAD TO THE BONE..