New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 22, 2013 13:17:46 GMT -5
|
Post by ericcruz on Jul 22, 2013 14:08:09 GMT -5
I'm at a loss & my wits end with my new scooter. I bought a previously wrecked 2012 TaoTao CY50-T3 from an individual and seemed to run optimal for approximately 50 miles. I went down a short gravel lane & it died so I tried to restart it, took several attempts & eventually restarted but kept acting like it was trying to die remainder of return trip home. When I finally got home, I noticed the air intake on the carburetor was completely open - someone had removed the airbox and never reinstalled it. After further inspection, it looked like someone had installed a possible universal solenoid & they cut the original wires going to the original solenoid and poorly spliced extensions covered with electrical tape onto the spliced area so the added wires would securely attach onto the change-over (obviously required different types of connectors). I installed a new NGK spark plug, new airbox w/ new air filter, new battery, cleaned the carb/installed new carb kit, drained/cleaned fuel tank. Pulled fuel line at carb, placed end of line into glass jar to check fuel flow while turning the engine over to see if the fuel filter is working & it pulsates fuel out the end of line. Now the scooter starts & runs for a few minutes then dies & hard to restart. It acts like it's either flooding out, suddenly stops getting enough fuel or something is getting hot very quickly & shutting down or turning itself off. Can anyone please tell me what might be causing this problem? I can't afford the $80/hr labor rates at the only scooter shop in my area.
|
|
|
|
Post by scootnwinn on Jul 22, 2013 14:24:00 GMT -5
"I installed a new NGK spark plug, new airbox w/ new air filter, new battery, cleaned the carb/installed new carb kit, drained/cleaned fuel tank."
Did you forget to mention you checked and reset the valves? If not I would start there. Your symptoms are screaming valve adjustment is needed...
|
|
Currently Offline
Posts: 0
Likes:
Joined: Nov 22, 2024 1:30:31 GMT -5
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2013 15:56:08 GMT -5
 Also gravel = bumpy ..same thing on my T3...the two wires going to my Coil were lose and the shaking caused similar symptoms
|
|
Currently Offline
Posts: 0
Likes:
Joined: Nov 22, 2024 1:30:31 GMT -5
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2013 16:00:41 GMT -5
This thing Attachments:
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 22, 2013 13:17:46 GMT -5
|
Post by ericcruz on Jul 22, 2013 17:47:08 GMT -5
Scootnwinn, you mentioned, "...checked and reset the valves?" I may not be the sharpest tool in the shed so to speak however I've never encountered ANY type of small engine needing ANY valve attention with the basics already performed especially since I never completed any top end work - then again I'm def not a mechanic here. My spidey senses tell me to check the coil/wires then replace solenoid w/ proper application & more importantly fix the shoddy wiring some knucklehead had cheaply & quickly applied obviously to save a fews bucks.
|
|
|
|
Post by scootnwinn on Jul 22, 2013 17:51:53 GMT -5
Your spidey sense has seemingly never encountered a Chinese GY6. Check your valves then tear into the electrical if it doesn't fix your issue
|
|
|
|
Post by scootnwinn on Jul 22, 2013 17:58:37 GMT -5
Try this itistheride.boards.net/index.cgi?board=ee&action=display&thread=65What happens is your head is an alloy that is very soft and the valves quickly seat into it causing the valve tolerance to disappear so the exhaust (usually) valve gets held open once the bike heats up. Obviously compression is an issue then. Once the bike cools the problem disappears and she will start and run till hot again. You will get good at this as most folks do it every other oil change at least (every 2000-3000 miles) |
|
