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Post by prodigit on May 30, 2013 17:59:10 GMT -5
Then what I don't understand is why the bike bogs down, when closing the choke (opening choke plate).; especially at idle, but less at open throttle, but still enough to let the engine die.
Now either there's something wrong with the mechanism, or the bike is running so lean, that it bogs like when it'd be running rich.
Also, why would a spark plug turn black (with choke opened; indicating a rich mixture), but die when closing the choke (leaning out the mixture)?
Doesn't make sense to me.
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Post by scootnwinn on May 30, 2013 18:13:29 GMT -5
You have it backwards closing the choke decreases the air available or richens the mix and opening it leans it out. Do you mean choke on and off not open and closed? Any way there is no bimetal piece on yours that is only for auto chokes. You have checked the valves and all possible air leaks right? Did you check to see if the carb was properly assembled all jets tight, float level correct and float needle sealing?
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Post by prodigit on May 30, 2013 19:10:47 GMT -5
not sure I get what you're saying, I know nothing of this.
The carb was pre-mounted, in a hard to reach place on the motor, behind plastics that seem impossible to remove.
It was already hard enough to mount the needle on the carb.
I was lucky I found the fuel valve, and the idle screw, but without a manual I'm really nothing.
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Post by scootnwinn on May 31, 2013 11:29:59 GMT -5
Good luck then
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Post by oldbikerider on May 31, 2013 14:54:49 GMT -5
I would get a new carb under the warranty before digging into it. It should at least run out of the box, leaving the fine tuning to the person doing the setup.
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Post by prodigit on May 31, 2013 18:52:18 GMT -5
I think I figured out a little more about my setup.
I tried starting it in a closed environment (lots of smoke and deadly CO/co2 lol ), and it starts there, but not outside.
I added chemtool B12 to the fuel, which is quite more energetic than fuel, and the bike started up much easier.
In order to keep the bike alive, I have to keep the choke about halfway (enriching the mixture).
Keeping it out when the engine is hot, and the bike dies.
I also noticed that at WOT, keeping the choke halfway or closing, makes very little difference. When I close the choke, the engine makes a lot more noise, and loses performance.
With the choke halfway I get the quietest running engine with most performance. But at full WOT it makes less of a difference, then say, halfway or 25% open.
This all leads me to believe that the idle jet is set too low; meaning the mixture is way too lean!
So lean that it sputters when accelerating.
The engine does not stay running unless if I WOT it the first 10-20 seconds or so.
The engine will also heat up quite fast, and start radiating a lot of heat.
Once I idle outside too long, the engine dies.
Without B12, the bike does not even start. So I'm gonna look into BP premium fuel (which is known to have more energy, as the current fuel I use, crappy chevron mid grade, which is like 25% water (meaning ethanol).
So, I'm gonna go for BP Premium fuel, and add B12 in the beginning, see if this enhanced mixture allows the bike to remain alive.
Second, I need to know how to change the A/F ratio.
THe only thing I saw was the idle screw.
On the left of it, there's a hole with a rivet in. I suppose underneath is the AF screw?
Anyone with knowledge, please help!
Thanks!
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