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Post by RapidJim on Jul 23, 2015 9:03:15 GMT -5
Without going back and re hashing everything that has been done or discussed, I think I would start over from square one and re verify what you have done. From all indications and tests, this motor should start and run. How I attack a non running GY6 Ensure that the battery is fully charged, check kill switch is in the proper position. ( I have missed this step and felt stupid when I found it) Remove the air filter tube from the carb and squirt a small amount of carb cleaner directly into the throat of the carb, if it starts or attempts too, troubleshoot the fuel system. % of my fuel issues have been plugged idle jets and dirty carbs. Check for spark, I have an inductive spark checker for this, that is reliable and quick just to see if the coil is firing, If so, then I have eliminated the stator as an issue, and normally the CDI. I have had one or two CDIs trick me that they were working but the machine still did not run until I replaced them. Next I check the compression. I kill a few birds with one stone at this step. Remove and inspect the plug. I also ground the plug to the case with a modified short car jumper cable, and check the intensity of the spark, if weak I change the coil after I have done a compression check. A gy6 requires a minimum of PSI to run, anything above 120 PSI is acceptable. Low compression can be caused by many things, from a simple valve adjustment to a hole in the piston. Next, I remove the valve cover, and check the valve adjustment. I do this a bit different than some. I rotate the motor until the exhaust valve is fully open and then adjust the intake valve to .004 inch. Then rotate the motor so the intake valve is fully open and adjust the exhaust to .004 inch. This has worked well for me for many years. Then I pull the inspection plug on the fan shroud and check that the cam timing is correct at Top Dead Center. If no joy by this point, which is really rare, I put everything back together and get out my battery powered inductive timing light. Connect it and check that the motor is actually firing at the "F" mark on the flywheel. Odd stuff I have run across, when all the above tested "good" A plug that will not fire under compression A CDI that did fire the plug but was bad anyways. A weak coil that also fired the plug and appeared to be strong An intermittent Trigger on the stator. Good Luck Jim
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Post by RapidJim on Jul 22, 2015 9:19:49 GMT -5
After reading all of this, I can see where you are pulling your hair out. Correct me if I am wrong, you have spark and compression and have sprayed starting fluid into the throat of the carb and still no joy, by the way I would use crab cleaner instead of starting fluid, starting fluid can cause issues in these small motors. . You adjusted your valves and still no joy. Here is where I would go next, remove the fan shroud from the right side of the motor and the valve cover., inspect that the flywheel is tight to the crank, remove the spark plug and then rotate the crankshaft by hand until you are at Top Dead Center as indicated by the mark on the case (at approx the 9 o'clock position) and the "T" mark on the flywheel. Now take a look at the cam gear and make sure that the two small holes are aligned with the top of the cylinder head and the the large hole in the gear is straight up. If this is not correct, check that the woodruff key did not shear off the crank and has allowed the flywheel to move, if that is okay, then re time the cam.
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Post by RapidJim on Jul 6, 2015 8:48:21 GMT -5
I received this in an email from Ice Bear,
Dear customer,
We have noticed some knockoff Maddog's in the market and wanted to make sure you are aware of a few things.
Can the "pretenders" that are providing these knockoff Maddog's say the following:
-Countless hours into the Strength & Structure of the frames? NO -Cleaner & Stronger welds throughout the entire bike? NO -4 stage painting process eliminating overruns & all other flows? NO
Now think about this:
Is paying a little less money worth the risks of selling an inferior product? NO
MAKE SURE YOU CHOOSE THE ORIGINAL ICEBEAR MADDOG!!!
Loveymae Kimura Ice Bear ATV / Pacific Rim Int'l West Inc.
You be the Judge!
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Post by RapidJim on Jun 28, 2015 7:29:10 GMT -5
Well, I done good. Even tho I was running lean I managed to walk away with a 1st place trophy. Best part of the day was a grudge race between this guy who loves his 2 stroke Zuma and me. Well I loved the outcome, left him in the dust LOL
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Post by RapidJim on Jun 26, 2015 15:00:02 GMT -5
Okay I got my build finished!!!!!!!! 52mm Hoca and stoker crank. I had to open the case a bit with 80 grit sandpaper, the jug was just to tight. Not much and bang it went in fine as silk. The case haves were not machined perfectly One issue is I can't find my jet box. Right now 20mm with a main. It runs sweet but I know there is more there. I had a 150carb laying around and gave it a short since the hoca 52mm will accept a 150 manifold. All it did was puke on itself. So tomorrow I will run with the 20mm/ jet unless I can find my jet box.
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Zodiac
by: RapidJim - Jun 18, 2015 8:25:34 GMT -5
Post by RapidJim on Jun 18, 2015 8:25:34 GMT -5
Before you get carried away, remove the rear tires and take them in to be spun balanced. With a trike anything that goes on in the back will be felt in the front. A bit of steering wobble, esp at take off and very slow speeds is normal for a trike
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Post by RapidJim on Jun 15, 2015 8:44:37 GMT -5
Maybe he ported it more who knows? LOL
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Zodiacs
by: RapidJim - Jun 13, 2015 21:51:11 GMT -5
Post by RapidJim on Jun 13, 2015 21:51:11 GMT -5
The Zodiac has a steering stabilizer. I always do a rear tire balance on any trike that is sold off the lot here and that I do PDIs on. It is part of my checklist. That way if there is an issue, I can rule out tire balance.
There will be some motor vibration at an idle due to the fact it is a one cylinder 300cc. However, your situation does indicate a vacuum leak.
Removing body panels is a core on the 300s. You can get to the air box from the left side by going underneath after you jack the trike up It is tight but can be done, better than removing a lot of panels. Hopes if you have the access panel under the seat off to aid in removal.
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Post by RapidJim on Jun 13, 2015 8:18:31 GMT -5
I am getting ready to do a 52mm hoca build with a stroker crank. Hopefully next week when my crank gets here. Later this month we (Rapid Repair) are sponsoring a scooter drag during our town festival, so of course, I have to build an entry. I am going for all bottom end running at first. I plan on using 4 gram sliders, then maybe switch them out later for road use. Don't want to rob much power by using a low end torque spring, so I will use the stock one and see how it goes first. I too plan on using the 20mm carb, should work fine for what we are trying to achieve.
I was talking with another gear head about a 52mm stroker, he ports the 52mm big valve head to accept a 150 manifold and uses a 30mm carb. Sounds awful "fat" to me, but he swears it works great. I think I would lean more towards EFI if I was going that way.
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Post by RapidJim on Jun 12, 2015 8:03:53 GMT -5
Assembly 1 hour after you get it out of the crate and have lots of help LOL. The Zodiac is the hardest to do because of the crate design and weight.
Enhoy
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Zodiacs
by: RapidJim - Jun 10, 2015 15:39:49 GMT -5
Post by RapidJim on Jun 10, 2015 15:39:49 GMT -5
Ice Bear has not used the independent rear suspension since 2012. I did confirm this with Ice Bear today to make sure they did not do another mod. The Zodiac has always been a straight axle. If a dealer is advertising that it is they don't have a clue what they are selling. Which doesn't surprise me with some of the so called dealers out there. Don't get me started LMAO
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Post by RapidJim on Jun 9, 2015 8:22:45 GMT -5
Ice Bear 300s have not had independent rear suspension since 2012. Who said it was an independent rear end?
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Post by RapidJim on May 29, 2015 8:24:01 GMT -5
I am with phatboy on this one. The A9 curve is very close to the A11 curve but A9 continues to give power increase up to 8500 and doesn't drop as fast after that.
I have used quite a few of scrappydog's A9s but have not tried a A11. IMHO the A9 is the way to go
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Post by RapidJim on May 22, 2015 8:26:33 GMT -5
AC vrs DC stators.The name is confusing to some, it does not refer to the power coming out of the stator, it refers to the type of CDI system you have. There is also several TYPES of stators besides coil count, type one and type two ect. This normally refers to the number of wires, plug configuration and floating or non floating ground.
All stators produce AC voltage and current no matter what the name implies. To get DC to charge the battery, the stator is wired to a regulator ( rectifier ) which changes the AC voltage from the stator to DC and also regulates it to a fixed voltage of around 13VDC. The yellow and white wires from a 8 pole stator are your charging and lighting wires. These wires are run to the regulator, most larger stators 11 coil and up use 3 yellow wires and all called 3 phase but operate the same, just more power and a differently wired larger regulator. Now the 2 wires that are left, normally red with a black tracer and blue with a yellow tracer are dedicated to powering and triggering the CDI. The blue with yellow is the trigger to the CDI and "tells' the CDI when to fire the coil. The above is the same no matter if you have a DC or AC powered CDI.
Now the only way to be sure what type of CDI you have is to look at the wiring configuration. Years ago, if your headlights came on with the key it was assumed you had a DC CDI, also physical size told the same story, this is no longer the case. Your standard GY6 CDI will have two plugs on it, one 4 pin plug and 1 two pin plug. The 2 pin plug will tell you the CDI type. If it has 2 wires in that plug then it is AC if it has only one then it is DC.
AC CDI: The red wire with the black tracer coming from the stator is what powers an AC CDI, the other wire in that plug is your kill switch circuit, normally black with a white tracer. The stator has one dedicated coil that that wire is connected too.
DC CDI: The red wire with the black tracer from the stator is not used. Instead, the single wire in the two pin connecter of the CDI gets it's 12 volt power from the key switch. The kill switch circuit removes this 12 volts.
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Post by RapidJim on May 14, 2015 8:42:17 GMT -5
Well boyz and gurlz... Since I've now been riding "things 2-wheeled" for over a half-century (big bikes mostly until my last 8 years on scooters) I've puzzled over just WHY I'm as happy riding a scooter as I was riding a Harley. Old-age senility? Too easy to please? Just forgot what clutch n' gears 250 hp, window-breaking exhaust and 120 mph cruise was like? The other day, running errands on "Minnie Mouse" I finally figured it out. It's the TWIST N' GO experience!
Yeah, SCOOTERS are affordable, easy to work on, cheap to ride and nimble in tight spots... but it's that CVT tranny that is the cherry on top of the sundae!
Whether you cut your teeth on "suicide" foot-clutch Harleys with hand-shifters, vintage Brit vertical twins, Japanese crotch-rockets... or never rode ANYTHING before your first scooter... There's just something enjoyable about opening the throttle and going from stop, to wide-open with nothing needed from the rider but to hang on and enjoy the ride.
The allure of the "twist n' go" phenomenon is hard to put into words. I suppose that's why few riders even try. But it's SO universal that the enjoyment is the same whether you're coaxing a 50 cc up to speed in a 30 mph zone, or unleashing a 700 cc tourer to + down the entrance ramp and into the left lane toward the coast a thousand miles away.
The closest driving experience I can compare it to is a power-boat. Whether moving a little 10 hp fishing boat to the next cove, or teasing the throttle levers open on a trio of 300 hp outboards... or a pair of 4,000 hp supercharged jet-drive V8's... That great, smooth, seamless acceleration from startup to however fast is "comfortable" on a given scoot is as "addictive" in its own way as banging gears on a hot set of wheels.
Having all the controls on the bars right at your fingertips is just plain FUN. You can plant both feet at a stop if you like. And you can relax and enjoy the ride in a way not possible with bikes requiring both hands to clutch and brake, and both feet to shift and brake. While there's amazing enjoyment in the "frantic" and "intimidating" aspect of big bikes, there's equal enjoyment in that incredibly-simple "open to go, squeeze to stop" personality of the modern scooter. It's TOTALLY different from motorcycles, yet equally appealing to cyclists AND scooter-jockeys alike.
I first noticed it with my original 150. There was amazing satisfaction entering traffic and feeling the little scoot go from stopped, to 45 or 50 mph with little change in rpm. The other day, as I eased "Minnie Mouse" onto the freeway I enjoyed the same phenomenon as I rolled the throttle on and smoothly went from 35 on the access road to 70 entering traffic. No fuss, no muss, just that smooth, steady acceleration with nothing but a twist of the mouse's ear.
These scooters are a lot of things besides handy transportation; affordable, nimble, easy-to-ride... but doggone... they are just plain FUN!
Just my observations from decades on big bikes, and now, some years on scooters...
Ride safe, and enjoy that ride!
Leo in Texas
I too have been riding these two wheeled things for over half a century now. Not many of us still out there. Everything you say is right on the money. Enjoy this bone. . I still have my Harleys, 86 FLTHC and a 50 EL pan, sad to say I don't ride the suicide, foot clutch, hand shift, rigid frame 50 EL much anymore due to my back, I really enjoy it but my back says NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO LOL. Think it is time to find it a home with someone who can appreciate and ride it. I do enjoy my 250 Roketa and my 300 trikes (now have 2 of them), and I agree it is the twist and go feature that make them fun, no shifting just enjoy the ride. I will admit, I ride the Harley for long rides and still love the Harley Drone and window rattling pipes HeHeHe! Take Care my Friend and Enjoy the Ride,.
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