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Post by townzlblx150 on May 14, 2016 11:32:52 GMT -5
I just saw brinkkl started a post that started to sound like a somewhat similar problem to one I'm experiencing now. It seems this has been a problem with my scoot for some time, but it keeps draining batteries. At first I thought after a couple of years my battery would just no longer hold a charge, so earlier this week I bought another battery. Well, I went down this morning and this one didn't have enough juice to turn it over, after I bought a 9ah for a little more staying power. My voltage off the stator reads the correct voltage and rises with the rpm's and I've tried 3 different regulators and I'm still only getting the battery voltage when checking at the battery.
One thing I've been curious about is whether the wiring to my connector to the regulator is in the correct set-up. I checked the continuity on those wires and they're good.
Does anyone have any advice on troubleshooting a R/R 4 pin or what the wiring looks like going into it. Let me add I have also replaced the stator.
I've got the battery charging so I may be able to get around to checking other DC operated items for shorts.
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Post by rcq92130 on May 14, 2016 14:38:56 GMT -5
I'm confused. Didn't you hook up your ammeter to see what the drain current is? If you did, it's not that hard to track down where the problem is - just start unplugging connectors until the drain current drops (anything less than 40 or so mA is fine - and if you are there and the battery STILL craps out it's the battery, not the scoot). Aftermarket alarms are notorious for drawing a lot of idle current ...
ps: always hook the ammeter on the (-) side of the battery (disconnect (-) and hook the ammeter between the (-) ground wire and the (-) battery terminal where it normally attaches. Doing so on the (+) side always runs the risk of a short that trashes your meter.
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Post by lain on May 14, 2016 17:14:41 GMT -5
Even if the regulator was not wired or wired wrong it shouldn't drain the battery in a day. I've ran scoots for a couple weeks with only wires hooked up to power the spark plug, the batteries are small but in good weather they actually last a while and can provide a good amount of starts on a 50cc, much less starts on a 150 but still not a day unless you are spamming the electric starter like a few dozen times in a day. Depending on the wiring and regulator usually really simple to wire them up anyways.  If you can still start the scoot on a full battery but then it dies in a day I would suspect there is a wire somewhere that is frayed/exposed and may be crossing another or the frame. |
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Post by townzlblx150 on May 14, 2016 17:47:33 GMT -5
Thanks, that is the diagram I'm looking for. Off the top of my head I'm thinking mine might be different but I can't be sure till I get back to R/R. I got the battery charging, been cutting grass for a while now it's time to take the better half out for dinner. I'll try both suggestions tomorrow and see how it goes, thanks for the info.
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Post by lain on May 14, 2016 18:24:20 GMT -5
Thanks, that is the diagram I'm looking for. Off the top of my head I'm thinking mine might be different but I can't be sure till I get back to R/R. I got the battery charging, been cutting grass for a while now it's time to take the better half out for dinner. I'll try both suggestions tomorrow and see how it goes, thanks for the info. Just for kicks, before installing the battery test with your meter to see if the wires that connect the battery and the regulator, and the wires from the power to the ignition switch to see if they are grounding out. I use the ohmz setting to make sure there is no connection between the red wires near the battery and put the negative probe on the frame, as long as the needle doesn't rise then it's good. I would suspect something in this area to be the culprit of frayed wiring that would dump the battery in a day. I know for a fact even with the wires crossed you can still get it to run but that battery and possibly the regulator too would be suffering a lot. |
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Post by townzlblx150 on May 15, 2016 8:52:03 GMT -5
Sorry I didn't state this earlier, I don't know if it's going to change any further posts, but it takes about 3-4 days before the battery drains.
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Post by rcq92130 on May 15, 2016 16:37:56 GMT -5
Instead of just randomly replacing compnents, it's actully simpler (and cheaper) to just find the source of the problem with your multimeter. www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a5859/how-to-stop-car-battery-drains/This is long winded, so here is the Cliff's Notes version: With the key OFF: 1. Disconnect the (-) wire at the battery. 2. Make sure your multimeter leads are plugged into the AMPS socket (probably the same socket for the black (-) wire, but for the red (+) wire NOT the same as when testing volts or ohms 3. Start with the multimeter set to high amps (say, 10 amps - varies by meter) just to be careful about not toasting your meter 4. Clip the black meter wire to the battery's (-) terminal post and the red meter wire (+) to the battery ground cable you disconnected in step 1. In this way all current drawn by your scooter will go THROUGH the meter. 5. Make sure the current drain isn't more than an amp, then switch your multimeter to the lower setting (milliamps). Normal leakage current is less than 50 milliamps. If yours is low like that the problem is a bad battery. Presumably you will find leakage current higher since you already tried a new battery. Let's say your current drain is 100 mA. 6. Just start disconnecting plugs until you see the leakage current on the meter drop. You just located the problem, which may be either bad wires, an incorrect connection, or a bad component DOWNSTREAM of the plug you disconnected. It can't be easier. Just make sure you give it a rest every few minutes by disconnecting the multimeter lead from the battery (or ground strap - either one) so the internals of the meter do not heat up and get burned up. On something as simple as a scooter - as long as you have access to the plugs - you can go thru the whole wiring system in 15 or 30 minutes max. |
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