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Post by rich on Dec 14, 2015 15:25:01 GMT -5
Headlights have gone out for a second time now. I already replaced the switch once, but now that there is all new stator, coil, CDI, etc I'm sure something else had to go wrong. Looking passed the obvious fact that these scooters have voltage issues and continuously burn out components, switches, etc What is the quickest way to track down my head light issue with my multimeter?
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Post by rich on Dec 14, 2015 15:40:32 GMT -5
Ok. Bulbs are blown now, and plugs are burned. Is this caused by a bad regulator?   |
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 14, 2015 15:57:34 GMT -5
looks like its getting hot, here is where it gets tricky. You need the proper load to check the voltage. That means you need a good bulb lit while your checking the voltage. Post a pic of your meter and I can tell you the details on how to get a reading.
John
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Post by rich on Dec 14, 2015 17:13:57 GMT -5
Here:  Plugs for the coil look brown too. |
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 14, 2015 17:35:26 GMT -5
3 clicks to the right, one probe to the white and one to the green (black or red make no difference).
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Post by rich on Dec 14, 2015 18:19:01 GMT -5
3 clicks to the right, one probe to the white and one to the green (black or red make no difference). So into these green and white going to headlamp harness, while cranked correct?  |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 14, 2015 18:25:32 GMT -5
correct me if i'm wrong, but doesn't some of these 50cc jobs headlights run directly off the stator?
luckily my scoot doesn't use AC for anything except input to the R/R.
i believe my old 50cc had AC lights because they would get brighter and dimmer according to the RPM of the engine.
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Post by rich on Dec 14, 2015 18:31:05 GMT -5
Well, without bulbs in the sockets, while cranked, I have between 14-16 volts and when I click the high beam switch voltage drops to 4volts (not sure it matters) but again, this is without bulbs installed. Voltage goes through the roof when I give it gas. Up to 100volts
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 14, 2015 18:45:41 GMT -5
looks like its getting hot, here is where it gets tricky. You need the proper load to check the voltage. That means you need a good bulb lit while your checking the voltage. Post a pic of your meter and I can tell you the details on how to get a reading. John 100vac when you rev it up, something is wrong I suspect everything connected to that ac circuit is blown. That means you have no load on the system. Be careful.How long ago did you replace the stator (whats the history)? John |
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 14, 2015 18:54:19 GMT -5
Oh by the way I meant to ask have you contacted the vendor you got your parts from for tech help?
John
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Post by rich on Dec 14, 2015 19:22:21 GMT -5
looks like its getting hot, here is where it gets tricky. You need the proper load to check the voltage. That means you need a good bulb lit while your checking the voltage. Post a pic of your meter and I can tell you the details on how to get a reading. John 100vac when you rev it up, something is wrong I suspect everything connected to that ac circuit is blown. That means you have no load on the system. Be careful.How long ago did you replace the stator (whats the history)? John well...i replaced the stator a few weeks ago when i found out it wasn't pulling any ohms, remember showing me where to get the stator here?: itistheride.boards.net/thread/8927/150cc-stator-plug?page=1&scrollTo=105445but then after replacing stator and still getting no spark I found out the right multifunction switch was bad here: itistheride.boards.net/thread/8944/spark-plug-stator-all-replaced could the regulator be the reason all this crazy voltage is burning everything up? |
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 14, 2015 20:15:14 GMT -5
hang on let me read the links, did you get the stator from me?
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 14, 2015 20:44:05 GMT -5
The 100vac at the head light is troubling me. Where is it coming from?
Take some readings at the stator plug , unpluged green to white, yellow to white, white to green . at idle and at 3000 rpm.
John
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 15, 2015 5:15:25 GMT -5
from one of your own threads:
I bought different colors of 16g wire, and manually ran all the wire from the stator, to the regulator, CDI, etc.
itistheride.boards.net/thread/8944/spark-plug-stator-all-replaced
if you run AC to the CDI then the CDI must be AC fired, not DC.
it sounds as if you might need to rip it all out and start over.
personally i would forget about "keeping it original".
IOW, go with a strictly DC bike.
the only possible problem with this is the autochoke, they might not make a DC autochoke for your ride.
in this case you need to tap off one of the stator wires for the choke.
one other thing to keep in mind, don't "twist and tape".
twisting wires together, then taping them is a temporary solution only.
i've rewired my bike, so i can offer some tips and help in this regard.
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Post by rich on Dec 15, 2015 10:11:05 GMT -5
from one of your own threads: I bought different colors of 16g wire, and manually ran all the wire from the stator, to the regulator, CDI, etc. itistheride.boards.net/thread/8944/spark-plug-stator-all-replaced if you run AC to the CDI then the CDI must be AC fired, not DC. it sounds as if you might need to rip it all out and start over. personally i would forget about "keeping it original". IOW, go with a strictly DC bike. the only possible problem with this is the autochoke, they might not make a DC autochoke for your ride. in this case you need to tap off one of the stator wires for the choke. one other thing to keep in mind, don't "twist and tape". twisting wires together, then taping them is a temporary solution only. i've rewired my bike, so i can offer some tips and help in this regard. that wasn't my quote. I didn't do any of that. |
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