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Post by wutzthedeal on Mar 27, 2013 2:31:30 GMT -5
For those of you that have one, which impact wrench (preferable 12V but AC is ok too; not looking for air-compressor powered) would you put your stamp of approval on for under $75? I need to get in and do some variator tuning sometime in the next few months and once adjusted, I'll be done. So, to be honest, I just need an impact wrench that will get my variator nut on and off about 10-15 times total, aside from emergencies, over its entire life, so I don't need a mega-high quality one which is why I'm keeping the search under $75, but I DO need it to NOT break down after the first or second use. What say ye?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 27, 2013 3:42:42 GMT -5
If you've got a 139QMB/QMA would suggest something like this instead.  Otherwise Harbor Freight has some fairly cheap impacts... |
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Post by oldbikerider on Mar 27, 2013 3:51:55 GMT -5
I am kind of stuck between two thoughts on using an impact on the variator nut. I used a $19 Harbor Freight 120v impact on the old Baja 50 we gave my son, and it did the job just fine, but I was thinking that repeated use of an impact on that nut might strip the crank. I used it on the Linhai 300 and the Honda 50 variator nuts as well, but it still makes me nervous. I am going to get a holding tool and socket/ breaker bar just for belt and roller changes.
I have had the cheap HF impact for 5 years now and it sees a good amount of use/ abuse with my projects and vehicles, so far no problems with it.
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Post by teddy554 on Mar 27, 2013 7:40:57 GMT -5
i use the electric one bought at autozone for around 70 buck, 225 psi and i am constantly using it.
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Post by wutzthedeal on Mar 27, 2013 7:51:12 GMT -5
hypo, what price or your setup? I would like the idea of 12v in case something gets funky on the road and I need to take the variator off (on mine, if you need to replace a belt, it's a beezatch squeezing the pulley together in the rear or front really)
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Post by richardthescooter1 on Mar 27, 2013 7:56:46 GMT -5
I use air impact wrench from harbor freight, on my variator and clutch it works great. (no problems)  |
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Post by Abscooters on Mar 27, 2013 7:58:07 GMT -5
[replyingto=wutzthedeal]wutzthedeal[/replyingto]Most of the battery operated 1/4 inch drive ones will work.
I have a 19.2V craftsman that came with a drill & 2 batteries for around $100 on sale. I use it quite often on variator nuts, but every so often I have to plug in the pneumatic for the nut that is really on there.
I don't recommend any of the HF battery operated tools. Their pneumatics seam to be fine.
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Post by DaveC on Mar 27, 2013 9:20:04 GMT -5
I'm confused (a normal state of mind)
Why are we using an impact wrench for the variator nuts anyway?
Don't they have a specific torque setting?
Can't a torque wrench do the job?
And can't a breaker bar remove it?
Yea, I know an impact wrench is great for removing/installing lug nuts, cause it's easier, but me thinks just slamming a nut on the variator can't but somehow overtorque it.
What am I missing here?
(No , seriously, I'm missing something, please tell me)
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Post by wutzthedeal on Mar 27, 2013 10:58:18 GMT -5
They are hard to get off because they have to go on so tight, and when you're tuning weights, it's on/off/on/off/on/off. Mine flew apart mid-ride one time; unpretty result. Dave did you ever serve at Langley? I was in  -94, Langley then Eielson. (PS I was PMEL; used to calibrate torque wrenches haha... this is about speed of application for frequent changes though). |
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Post by DaveC on Mar 27, 2013 11:33:08 GMT -5
They are hard to get off because they have to go on so tight, and when you're tuning weights, it's on/off/on/off/on/off. Mine flew apart mid-ride one time; unpretty result. Dave did you ever serve at Langley? I was in -94, Langley then Eielson. (PS I was PMEL; used to calibrate torque wrenches haha... this is about speed of application for frequent changes though). Yea, they go on tight, just curious what the torque setting was, if any. No, never did Langley. But did Clark/Grissom/Nellis/Homestead/Bentwaters/March/Misawa and Lowry. Thanx for serving Dave |
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Post by JR on Mar 27, 2013 13:27:58 GMT -5
Dave, you are the first person I have heard say that a battery operated 1/4 impact would work, you must have a good one.
Sure the locking device like hypocycle posted is a good tool and it will let you use any wrench or ratchet you have in your tool box that will do the job.
I have a Habor Freight 120 volt plug in that works well, I think I got it on sale for 50% off and gave about $20.00 for it several years ago, if yuou go with something like that it is always better to get the impact sockets that go with it or you might break your regular socket using it.
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Post by DaveC on Mar 27, 2013 13:45:52 GMT -5
Dave, you are the first person I have heard say that a battery operated 1/4 impact would work, you must have a good one. Sure the locking device like hypocycle posted is a good tool and it will let you use any wrench or ratchet you have in your tool box that will do the job. I have a Habor Freight 120 volt plug in that works well, I think I got it on sale for 50% off and gave about $20.00 for it several years ago, if yuou go with something like that it is always better to get the impact sockets that go with it or you might break your regular socket using it. Actually Abscooters said that. I'm asking what the tourque setting is and why a torque wrench and/or breaker bar wouldn't do the same job. I'm just afraid of getting it too tight and screwing something up, like not being able to get the nut off next time (whch I believe I read a thread somewhere about that, and the guy had to use a nut buster (like an ex wife) to get it off. I'll make a trip to HF and check em out tho, for if/when the time arises Thanx dave |
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Post by wutzthedeal on Mar 27, 2013 13:56:09 GMT -5
Thank you, Doug; didn't know about the possibility of breakage. Dave, don't suppose you taught at Lowry? I took my basic PMEL course (9 months) and two advanced courses there (Tactical Analysis/Identify Friend/Foe systems and Advanced Electronics Diagnostics, for about another 5 months combined).
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Post by makarov on Mar 27, 2013 13:58:11 GMT -5
As far as getting the right torque.
I use a hammer and small chisel to mark the not and the shaft before using an impact to remove the nut.
When I reinstall the variator it is very easy to get it back to the original posistion.
just take your time and impact a little at a time once you get close.
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Post by DaveC on Mar 27, 2013 13:59:47 GMT -5
Thank you, Doug; didn't know about the possibility of breakage. Dave, don't suppose you taught at Lowry? I took my basic PMEL course (9 months) and two advanced courses there (Tactical Analysis/Identify Friend/Foe systems and Advanced Electronics Diagnostics, for about another 5 months combined). That was one of my choices, but I worked at DFAS, then it was the Air Force Accounting And Finance Center. In , it was that big brick 3 story building way over in the corner of the base. |
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-94, Langley then Eielson. (PS I was PMEL; used to calibrate torque wrenches haha... this is about speed of application for frequent changes though).
