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Post by geh3333 on Feb 21, 2015 8:20:02 GMT -5
QUESTION , I was thinking about using my old koso variator and filling in the groves on the guide rails with jb weld . does anyone think the jb weld would hold up ? The plastic v-slides slide up and down the rails so I'm thinking of the jb weld may hold up .
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Post by scooter on Feb 21, 2015 8:28:28 GMT -5
QUESTION , I was thinking about using my old koso variator and filling in the groves on the guide rails with jb weld . does anyone think the jb weld would hold up ? The plastic v-slides slide up and down the rails so I'm thinking of the jb weld may hold up . You could take it to a tig welder and let them fill it. It could heat warp your variator but it's a small area so it might be fine. Some plastics are very abrasive and can eat into steel quickly with friction. You can try the JB Weld, and keep an eye on it, but if it breaks off in your variator it may cause trouble. |
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Post by geh3333 on Feb 21, 2015 11:04:33 GMT -5
QUESTION , I was thinking about using my old koso variator and filling in the groves on the guide rails with jb weld . does anyone think the jb weld would hold up ? The plastic v-slides slide up and down the rails so I'm thinking of the jb weld may hold up . You could take it to a tig welder and let them fill it. It could heat warp your variator but it's a small area so it might be fine. Some plastics are very abrasive and can eat into steel quickly with friction. You can try the JB Weld, and keep an eye on it, but if it breaks off in your variator it may cause trouble. If I try jb weld , I may use a very thin drill bit at drill a small hole or two into the guide " where its wore down " so the jb weld has more to grab onto. Of course I'll try the new koso first , just to confirm the function of it . |
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Post by xyshannen on Feb 21, 2015 13:36:01 GMT -5
Instead of going through all this trouble to "modify" your variator, why not just buy one that works right to begin with, I mean it's not like these things are expensive.
My 115mm Hoca variator I got from partsforscooters.com work great. The belt uses the entire face of the variator.
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Post by geh3333 on Feb 21, 2015 16:30:28 GMT -5
Instead of going through all this trouble to "modify" your variator, why not just buy one that works right to begin with, I mean it's not like these things are expensive. My 115mm Hoca variator I got from partsforscooters.com work great. The belt uses the entire face of the variator. I'll have to do that . that was my main issue " not knowing which one to buy " . I'm first going to install the the new koso and see what happens. Then if it performs like I think it will , I'll do a little research and buy another brand. On a good note , I received my ncy starter clutch today !! And the gasket for the side cover. Now I just need some descent weather !  |
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Post by rcq92130 on Feb 21, 2015 20:09:52 GMT -5
Hey rcq , the splines on the variator shaft " crank " . the ncy drive face I have is wider then a stock drive face . that is , how it fits between the boss and the variator nut . so if I use shims , the drive face will not be fully on the splines . not sure if it matters , however I don't like it . Terminology is making my head hurt. The "variator shaft" IS the crankshaft. So you are saying the NCY drive face (I thought you had a Koso, and just got another Koso???) is THICKER - the distance from the inside, where it rests against the boss, and the outside, where the nut contacts it, is more than stock. Is that right? The splines on the crank and the drive face mate up correctly --- right? Or are you saying the diameter of the hole in the center of the drive face is larger than stock? If the former, I cannot believe shimming it out .010 or .040 will matter to anything. The drive face only transfers 1/2 of the tiny 9hp power to the belt (the variator inner face doing the other 1/2). But more so - the thicker drive face just means there is extra meat on the side facing the nut. You could grind the thickness down to stock and still have exactly the same spline contact as stock. So pushing your drive face out by .040 is no different than pushing a stock drive face out by that amount - there is just ,040 less THREAD available (no difference to spline contact). Or maybe I have no idea what you are saying .... |
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Post by geh3333 on Feb 22, 2015 19:54:31 GMT -5
I have a koso variator but an ncy finless drive face " the drive face is its own separate unit even though it works with the variator ". your probably right about the shims not making any difference that would hurt anything. The width difference is the thickness of the drive face " which would mean the ncy drive face has more contact on the splines then the stock " so if I would use shims with a stock drive face , the drive face will not hang out past the splines but with the ncy drive face I have it will hang out slightly past the plines . the reason I'm so concerned about this is because ive seen where others have stripped the plines on the drive shaft "however I do not remember what caused this " Yes the variator shaft is part of the crank . I should have just posted a pic , lol . sometimes its easier to explain things with a pic.
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Post by rcq92130 on Feb 22, 2015 20:19:55 GMT -5
I have a koso variator but an ncy finless drive face " the drive face is its own separate unit even though it works with the variator ". your probably right about the shims not making any difference that would hurt anything. The width difference is the thickness of the drive face " which would mean the ncy drive face has more contact on the splines then the stock " so if I would use shims with a stock drive face , the drive face will not hang out past the splines but with the ncy drive face I have it will hang out slightly past the plines . the reason I'm so concerned about this is because ive seen where others have stripped the plines on the drive shaft "however I do not remember what caused this " Yes the variator shaft is part of the crank . I should have just posted a pic , lol . sometimes its easier to explain things with a pic. I think sometimes I am very, very unclear in how i say things. Seems to me your NCY drive face, shimmed out 040, would have exactly the same amount of "spline contact" as a stock drive face shimmed out the same amount. The only difference is your NCY, being thicker, would have some extra meat hanging beyond the splines, doing nothing either good or bad. So are yuo saying you would also be uncomfortable shimming out a STOCK drive face --- 'cause i thought your discomfort was because of the thicker NCF face. |
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Post by geh3333 on Feb 23, 2015 20:40:06 GMT -5
Your exactly right about the ncy having the same amount of contact as the stock , and the ncy having extra hanging over. I'm just curious if having some extra meat hanging off the splines could possibly cause an issue with stripping the splines. I would think not , and I tend to sometimes look into things a little too much, lol. If I'm not mistaken the extra meat hanging past the splines will not be touching the variator shaft at all , so there will be free space in between the variator nut and the shaft splines " not much " and as long as everything is nice and tight " the variator nut " this should not matter. Just me thinking too much , lol.
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Post by geh3333 on Feb 23, 2015 20:43:38 GMT -5
Your exactly right about the ncy having the same amount of contact as the stock , and the ncy having extra hanging over. I'm just curious if having some extra meat hanging off the splines could possibly cause an issue with stripping the splines. I would think not , and I tend to sometimes look into things a little too much, lol. If I'm not mistaken the extra meat hanging past the splines will not be touching the variator shaft at all , so there will be free space in between the variator nut and the shaft splines " not much " and as long as everything is nice and tight " the variator nut " this should not matter. Just me thinking too much , lol. It seems as if I have a little extra room to shim the stock drive face an it still be on the splines. So I could always just use a stock drive face and be done with any worrying I have , lol. |
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Post by geh3333 on Feb 23, 2015 20:49:08 GMT -5
I will probably be bringing my scoot inside 2mro and installing the new ncy starter clutch , and the new koso. I am also buying a new battery in the morn because the battery in the scoot is completely gone and will not hold a charge any more.
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 23, 2015 21:53:20 GMT -5
40 degrees next Sunday here Geh...its gettin better slowly..this Winter was terrible for cold!
I cant remember colder one in all my 44 years alive...
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Post by geh3333 on Feb 23, 2015 22:02:21 GMT -5
40 degrees next Sunday here Geh...its gettin better slowly..this Winter was terrible for cold! I cant remember colder one in all my 44 years alive... I haven't even taken the scoot out for the past 2 weeks . the cold finally destroyed my battery ,lol. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Feb 23, 2015 23:01:38 GMT -5
40 degrees next Sunday here Geh...its gettin better slowly..this Winter was terrible for cold! I cant remember colder one in all my 44 years alive... I haven't even taken the scoot out for the past 2 weeks . the cold finally destroyed my battery ,lol. IU have a Yasua battery - used only 6 months. Thought it was going bad & bought a Walmart special (which works fine) and have been too lazy to put the good one back in. Your for the cost of freight, if you want (just checked it and the Yasua is fine). Freight maybe too high on all that lead, but up to you. |
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Post by geh3333 on Feb 24, 2015 1:11:00 GMT -5
I haven't even taken the scoot out for the past 2 weeks . the cold finally destroyed my battery ,lol. IU have a Yasua battery - used only 6 months. Thought it was going bad & bought a Walmart special (which works fine) and have been too lazy to put the good one back in. Your for the cost of freight, if you want (just checked it and the Yasua is fine). Freight maybe too high on all that lead, but up to you. Thanks rcq , I'm actually picking a new one up from Walmart in the morn , but thanks anyway buddy . |
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