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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 17, 2015 11:56:59 GMT -5
Okay, the other day I wanted to bleed to factory brake fluid from a 150cc TaoTao to ensure I had quality fluid. I thought it would be an easy process of opening the brake fluid reservoir, bleeding, and filling. I found a Phillips head bit that fit the screws perfectly, but they were on with some crazy guerrilla strength. Now I have to remove the screws with an extractor bit and find replacements. Was I correct that the two top screws are the only hardware to open the reservoir?  |
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Post by ramblinman on Feb 17, 2015 12:26:06 GMT -5
Was I correct that the two top screws are the only hardware to open the reservoir? yes, i had same problem when i changed the fluid on my old atm50. i used vise grips clamped on a short screwdriver. it gave me the leverage i needed to turn while put all my weight on it. |
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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 17, 2015 12:41:14 GMT -5
Makes me feel better I'm not the only one that had a problem.
The first screw I just used a screw driver with the bit. Even with all my weight the screw just buggered out. The second screw I used a rachet with socket that fit the Phillips head bit. Again with all my weight pressing down the screw tore like cheap paper.
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 17, 2015 14:07:27 GMT -5
You are not alone! Those screws are notorious for rusting from the inside out. I had to use a dremel to cut a line across one of mine in order to remove it, and that was on a brand new scooter just delivered.
A tip for filling your brakes without bleeding them:
Get a large syringe with a tube that fits the bleeder valve, you can find them at most auto parts and hardwares stores for various uses. Take the cover off the reservoir and put a towel around it to catch any fluid that squirts out. Put the syringe and tube onto the bleeder valve, then fill the syringe with brake fluid. Tap on the tube till every single bubble is gone, a vibrating tool placed against it may help if you have trouble, but you must get all the bubbles out before filling. Now loosen the bleeder valve, and VERY GENTLY squeeze the syringe, pushing the fluid from the bottom up till the reservoir is filled (requires a helper to watch, or something to hang the syringe on while you check the level). Once full, tighten the bleeder valve and replace the reservoir cover, and you are done, no need to bleed with this method!
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Post by ricardoguitars on Feb 17, 2015 16:08:46 GMT -5
Brake fluid is very corrosive, I had a spill on my Landy's fender, I didn't notice it until a few hours later, it ruined the paint  |
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Post by scooter on Feb 17, 2015 16:22:54 GMT -5
Was I correct that the two top screws are the only hardware to open the reservoir? yes, i had same problem when i changed the fluid on my old atm50. i used vise grips clamped on a short screwdriver. it gave me the leverage i needed to turn while put all my weight on it. I find an impact wrench is a great help in removing small tight screws. |
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Post by mrpalmetto on Feb 17, 2015 17:11:57 GMT -5
Easiest way to get them out it to put a good quality screw driver in the screw and hold it firmly then give it a firm tap with a hammer and it should let it loose, like a ball joint on a car.
As far as fluid itself, I changed one side of my brake caliper and being careful, I still got some on the plastic cowling around the on/ off switch and in that General area, and in a couple of weeks the cowl disintegrated everywhere the fluid came in contact with it. Like breaking pieces of plastic off as easy as breaking off a piece of cookie. Nasty stuff. Wiping it off does not help once it comes in contact with plastic.
You need to neutralize it with some degreaser or similar liquid ASAP because it will magically wreck your plastic parts while you sleep.
$60 and three months of trying to find the matching cowl, is proof of what I know about break fluid and Chinese plastic.
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Post by mrpalmetto on Feb 17, 2015 17:14:30 GMT -5
Another great way to get them out clean and no burrs is to use a drill driver and a new/good #2 Phillips head bit and hold the drill firmly and straight, and voila!
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 17, 2015 19:13:51 GMT -5
Yup,,A good driver,,hold it firm and while you hit it with a small hammer turn CCW at the same time...
I changed mine with synthetic and the lever is so firm,,you just touch it with a pinky and it stops....they really need to be bled and changed from factory ASAP...good job!
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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 17, 2015 21:32:35 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm pissed an easy task, or at least what I thought would be, has turned into an involved project with a trip to the hardware store.
But it will reassure me knowing that I have quality brake fluid. I've seen several posts about it, and fork oil will be next in my list.
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Post by dmartin95 on Feb 17, 2015 22:32:44 GMT -5
I had the same problem with them stupid frackin screws!
My handle bars were leaning back too far when I purchased my scoot, I raised em up and that made my switches in a screwed up orientation... When I went to re-position them, I stripped 3, of the 4 screws out, and that was with using a Makita impact gun...
It's that cheap a__ metal (chinesium) they use... These screw heads are soft as butter... Almost as bad as the tamper proof carb screws.
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 18, 2015 8:02:05 GMT -5
I should have probably replaced my hardware while I had them out,,i did notice they where soft metal...oh well,,next time I do it,,it might end up being a project like joey had.
Fork oil,,let me know how that goes for you,,mine is still the stock oil,,not even sure if there is any in there or not..lol..feels ok?
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Post by ricardoguitars on Feb 18, 2015 9:56:37 GMT -5
Fork oil? That's new for me |
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 18, 2015 10:21:54 GMT -5
ricardoguitars yeah,,guess we should check and change it once in a while,,my front end feels pretty good,,much better than my rear shocks,,I might talk to John or start a thread on a good decent set of rear shocks that wont break the bank,,mine are bouncy at times....
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Post by ricardoguitars on Feb 18, 2015 14:20:05 GMT -5
How often is recommended to change it? I know the riding conditions will affect it, but on average?
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