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Post by scob89 on Jul 10, 2014 19:09:19 GMT -5
Yesterday I bought a 2007 Roketa 250cc water cooler scooter, because it was one of those deals that was so cheap it was either a scam or a steal. The owner broke the spark plug off below the nut, I struggled 3 hours, but got it out and replaced it with a champion (NGK Iridium one on the way), Then put the missing fuel line on and put fuel in it. Started and runs good, but is very lacking on power, for a 250cc, I expected a lot more. To compare, it has about half the power if my air cooled 150cc GY6 scooter. It also like to die at stop signs and is hard to restart after wards.
The scooter has sat in a shed for a year, only has 950 miles and because of the missing fuel line, was empty on fuel while sitting.
I think the carb is dirty and needs replaced, but not sure.
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Post by scob89 on Jul 10, 2014 19:38:34 GMT -5
To add here are a couple pictures.   |
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 10, 2014 20:03:58 GMT -5
Sitting for good length of time in a shed I am sure the carbs PILOT JET and passage are varnished up. So I would take the carb off and just take the carb bowl off and get a SPRAY can of Carb Cleaner they come with a long thin straw. Stick the straw in every hole you see especially the PILOT JET and spray, SPRAY should come out by the butterfly where the PILOT JETS fuel outlets are. Those and the PILOT JET itself are the ones that get clogged. Also loss of power I would check the MUFFLER, mice like to build nests in the mufflers in sheds  Another thing would be Valves are tight if it wants to die or dies after it gets hot coming to stops(CLASSIC SYMPTOM OF TIGHT VALVES). Alleyoop   |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jul 10, 2014 20:11:18 GMT -5
Good find bro..you will get it screaming soon as long as you stick around this place |
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Post by shalomdawg on Jul 10, 2014 21:13:21 GMT -5
howdy and welcome
lotsa miles and smiles to ya
ken
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Post by scob89 on Jul 10, 2014 22:15:37 GMT -5
Thanks for the help guys, I just took it for another ride and after cleaning the carb it no longer wants to die once it get warmed up, but the power only unproved slightly. I doubt a mouse could get in the muffler as the output pipe on the end is only 1/2". I really want to drill it out like I did on my 150cc, it sure helped that one out.
It takes roughly 40 seconds to go from 0 to 45-50 and then another 30 seconds to get up to 65. My 150cc only take 20 or so seconds to get up to 55.
So far after buying a new windshield for $45, battery for $25, I only have $170 into it.
I'm curious how much this scoot is actually worth, I've seen this same model listed on craigslist for around $1800 with many more miles and broken body parts.
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Post by JR on Jul 11, 2014 21:36:01 GMT -5
scob89
Two things, adjust the valves, and get rid of the Champion sparkplug. I own two of these scooters and I'm sure the valves were never checked from the start.
Lastly the muffler on this scooter DOES not need drilling it's not restricted and serves this scooter well. While you may not have a rats nest in it you very well could have problems from this insect.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mud_dauber
If it was in a open shed and any of these were around you'll need to clean that muffler out.
JR
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 12, 2014 14:17:43 GMT -5
you apparently do not know mice, they can squeeze in holes smaller than 1/2 inch.
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Post by scob89 on Jul 12, 2014 15:58:39 GMT -5
Well, I figured it out, the scoot can easily spin out on gravel now and the top speed went from 65 to 70. Now times to wait for the windshield to show up and put all the bodywork back on.
One of the rollers in the variator was jammed sideways, causing the variator to become stuck. The RPM gauge doesn't work, but I thought the engine wasn't revving up like it should.
As for the champion spark plug, I just bought the cheapest they had to get it running and ordered a NGK Iridium the same day.
Does anyone know where I could get the electronic choke for the top of the carb? The one on there looks like the wires are melted a bit and it is hard to start in the mornings.
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 12, 2014 16:08:25 GMT -5
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Post by JR on Jul 12, 2014 19:31:31 GMT -5
Well, I figured it out, the scoot can easily spin out on gravel now and the top speed went from 65 to 70. Now times to wait for the windshield to show up and put all the bodywork back on. One of the rollers in the variator was jammed sideways, causing the variator to become stuck. The RPM gauge doesn't work, but I thought the engine wasn't revving up like it should. As for the champion spark plug, I just bought the cheapest they had to get it running and ordered a NGK Iridium the same day. Does anyone know where I could get the electronic choke for the top of the carb? The one on there looks like the wires are melted a bit and it is hard to start in the mornings. Clean, clean, clean, get rid of the rollers and go to 13g sliders which need NO grease. Top end will go up a tad, take off will be better and hill climbing also. The OEM rollers will do better with no grease.
Lastly tach not working more than likely a loose wire up front where it plugs in. When your windshield comes in remove the front and go through all wires and plugs to make sure all is well.
JR
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Post by scob89 on Jul 12, 2014 20:52:46 GMT -5
I just figured the RPM gauge was a typical china quality one and wasn't going to bother replacing it. It shows 1K RPM at idle, but only goes up to 2K at 65MPH and I know that can't be right, if you give it a good wack it jumps up to around 5-7K briefly.
I cleaned the rollers pretty well, will order 13g ones, I always get confused when looking for what weight to put in one.
For the electric choke, the one listed is the correct one, but I'm just going to buy a replacement carb that comes with it. as the choke costs more then half of a new carb.
I would like to check the valves as was mentioned earlier, do you have to remove the engine to do so?
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Post by JR on Jul 13, 2014 7:34:44 GMT -5
I just figured the RPM gauge was a typical china quality one and wasn't going to bother replacing it. It shows 1K RPM at idle, but only goes up to 2K at 65MPH and I know that can't be right, if you give it a good wack it jumps up to around 5-7K briefly. I cleaned the rollers pretty well, will order 13g ones, I always get confused when looking for what weight to put in one. For the electric choke, the one listed is the correct one, but I'm just going to buy a replacement carb that comes with it. as the choke costs more then half of a new carb. I would like to check the valves as was mentioned earlier, do you have to remove the engine to do so? RPM gauge could be bad but mine have served me well and the whack indicates a loose wire as I mentioned, costs nothing to look, just the time to remove the front, need to look the wiring over any way. Might as well do a good PDI.
No you don't have to remove the engine but some plastics on the valve adjustment, a step by step tutorial is here:
www.thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/
The exhaust valve is the hard one to get to and the most critical, intake valve rarely needs adjusting.
Good idea on the carb/choke. Now if you do a lot of hill climbing you may want to consider 12g sliders, all depends on your riding? But if it's just mainly flat street/highway riding 13g will serve you well and you will like sliders a lot better.
JR
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Post by oldchopperguy on Jul 18, 2014 1:47:47 GMT -5
Scob89,
Welcome to the site!
Dang! YOU got a BARGAIN! Just a little tweaking and you'll have a fabulous scoot for everything from grocery-getting to highway cruising. After more than six years riding a 150, I finally "upsized" to a 250 and have been VERY happy! It's an old, well-used one, but seems trouble-free and is a joy to ride.
I'm an OLD Harley guy from the sixties, and while I did enjoy the 150, the 250 is similar in feel to the old Hogs from my youth... Arthritis keeps me from climbing over even the "semi-hump" of most scoots. I need a flat-floor, step-through. The old Kymco does me fine.
YOU are going to LOVE your new ride once you get the little bugs out.
Enjoy!
Leo in Texas
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Post by rockynv on Jul 18, 2014 3:44:31 GMT -5
On the new carb be prepared to re-jet as whats inside the new one may not be a good match for you specific bike. The have to be set up to match the exhaust and air filter plenum so there are some variable there. You may end up taking the enrichner off the new one and using it on the old carb.
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
