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Post by speed0meter on May 14, 2014 13:21:12 GMT -5
Ok so I can't post pics from my phone but last time I was on here my clutch arm broke & now another 1 broke a few days ago. The symptoms that it was the clutch was exactly like before. Everything was perfect except on deceleration and trying to stop. Bike wouldn't stop so I'd have to kill it @ every light or when I needed to stop. "Very dangerous" so awaiting my new clutch I put on an older 1 with yellow springs & it does the same thing. Not nearly as bad but this was initially why I swapped that out to begin with. Prob is there's no rev. When I start the bike it's ready to go. Like everything's already engaged. Now my new clutch is in it has yellow springs. Can I just not run yellows or what? My torque spring is red, 10g sliders. I've done this set up many x's on my other bike & no issues. Anyone know what would cause this or what it is?
Thanks
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Post by millsc on May 15, 2014 9:01:19 GMT -5
Turn the idle down so the wheel doesn't move when no throttle is applied. If the wheel is trying to spin while your stopped it will tear up your clutch.
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Post by speed0meter on May 22, 2014 6:15:05 GMT -5
Tried that & no matter how I config it it's the same.
Either throttle adjust is to low & stalls or to high & clutch is always engaged. There's no in between, pretty annoying actually but I do find there is considerable more power @ the jump since it's ready to go. But don't want to be buying clutches every other wk.
So with this said do u think it could be jet related?
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Post by phssthpok on May 22, 2014 10:31:24 GMT -5
[snip] Either throttle adjust is to low & stalls or to high & clutch is always engaged. There's no in between...[snip] Not having any tach numbers (RPM) to go off of, I'll presume that means everything is functioning properly (no air leaks, etc.) and 'too low' is lower than the manual prescribes for idle speed. If not then you need to check for an air/fuel issue that's preventing you from turning the idle down to where it needs to be. Based on your claim that "I do find there is considerable more power @ the jump since it's ready to go", I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that the idle is significantly higher than recommended, which would indicate there *is* an A/F issue that needs to be addressed. Alternatively, if you like your idle turned up that far (for the 'take off power'), you might consider installing stronger clutch arm springs. Stronger springs will prevent the arms from swinging out to engage the clutch bell until higher RPM's are achieved. However, this would be a 'band-aid' approach if there is an A/F issue as I suspect. |
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Post by geh3333 on May 22, 2014 22:17:59 GMT -5
What size scoot and what size belt r u running ?
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Post by alleyoop on May 24, 2014 23:33:38 GMT -5
The problem appears to be NOT the carb, the problem appears to be in the CVT, it is engaging the bell at low rpms. Since he has stronger springs in the clutch pads that points to two possible things causing the clutch to spin to fast at low idle. 1. The belt is to short and the belt is already quite a bit down in the clutch pulley 2. There is a problem on the Variator side. Take a picture of the CVT so we can see how the belt is sitting in the pulleys WITH THE MOTOR off. Similiar problem here cannot idle it below 1800 rpms or it will die and the rear wheel is spinning to fast: itistheride.boards.net/thread/5835/scooter-stay-running-idle?page=11 Alleyoop |
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Post by speed0meter on May 26, 2014 4:03:13 GMT -5
Ya def not an a/f prob or carb. Can't be the belt either because I ran different clutch with red springs and the bike ran fine.
It idles about 13. But it's not an Idle really. So I turned the idle dwn even more & the wheel stopped spinning but it's idling so low it'll stall if I don't keep giving it some gas.
It's only with yellow springs.
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Post by geh3333 on May 26, 2014 21:03:41 GMT -5
I once has a variator lock up on the boss , I pulled the variator off and had to pound the boss out . It was covered in a black coating .
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..BAD TO THE BONE..