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Post by keltex78 on Dec 5, 2013 14:02:48 GMT -5
My Jonway YY-250T (Rocket MC-54-style) 244cc scoot is up for a tire change. The factory tire is worn bald on the rear at 3500 miles; I already have the new tires in, and will probably spend some time in the garage getting those swapped out since it's going to be cold and wet for the next few days so I won't be able to ride anyway.
Does anyone have access to a good resource on the process? I think I can handle the teardown/mounting; I'm actually looking for the technical details on the swap. Torque specs, and where to put lock-tite, where to put Anti-sieze, stuff like that. I'm assuming while I have it torn down, I should take the time to regrease bearings and check for brake-wear, de-glaze brake pads if needed. Anything else I should check out?
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Commuting is the best part of my day!
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Post by trailheadmike on Dec 5, 2013 16:34:25 GMT -5
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Post by rockynv on Dec 5, 2013 23:30:01 GMT -5
You will probably need a new cotter pin if that model has a castle nut on the rear wheel or if it is a stake-on nut then you will need to relieve that along with the new stake-on nut and the tool to lock them. Many just force the stake-on nuts off without realizing what they are and damage a third to half the threads on their axle shaft. Wheel bearings should be sealed units and don't require greasing. Use silicone brake lube on the caliper guides while you at it and coat the back of the pads with an antisqueal compound while your at it. Take pictures and keep track of the order of the spacers and such. Pay particular attention to the order in which everything goes together where the speedometer pickup is located. Some help prevent rim damage/marring by wrapping their tire spoons with duct tape.
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Post by keltex78 on Dec 12, 2013 22:26:45 GMT -5
...and... First tire swapped out succesfully! Removed the rear wheel this evening and got the new installed, I was surprised at how easily it went. Popped the old bead using my $15 Harbor Freight bead breaker which worked great. Swapped out the valve stem with the solid metal stem from KurveyGirl: www.kurveygirl.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=169&products_id=72Mounted the tire using the zip-tie method and it went on the rim very easily. Bead sealed solid and no leaks using my cheap little Harbor Freight pancake compressor. Going to get it all tightened up tomorrow evening and start working on getting the front pulled and swapped next. |
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Post by petrol42 on Dec 14, 2013 20:16:15 GMT -5
A scooter shop charged me $10 bucks if I brought them the wheel. They had a machine to do the job and it only took a few minutes.
Maybe a motorcycle repair shop would do the same if you brought them just the wheel.
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Post by keltex78 on Dec 14, 2013 23:36:25 GMT -5
...and Front tire changed this afternoon. Like the rear tire, removing the old wheel from the rim was the hardest part. Easier this time though with the experience from removing the rear. Again, used the zip tie method with great success! New tire went on easily. I get the jumbo zip ties at Harbor Freight for about $2/10 and use 8 to mount the tire. I was able to save the ties from the rear tire to finish the front so I only used one package of ties for the project. So only $2 worth of expendable gear to mount both tires.
Biggest frustration I encountered was after I installed the muffler only to realize that I had forgotten to torque the rear axle bolt. So everything had to come back off to tighten that.
Once I was done, I decided to do some routine checking and pulled the air filter. My scoot has a paper filter with a metal bracket, and somehow, the bracket had shattered into four pieces! So I've just ordered a replacement filter off ebay for $13... I removed the license plate light which is a t10 bulb. It had already started to yellow and deform the plastic from the heat. I put aluminum foil tape on the damaged side to work as a reflector and placed the open clean side down facing the plate and installed a bright 9-LED bulb in its place. Should run a lot cooler and be brighter on the plate now. Plus saving 2-3 watts on the charging system. Now to pull my factory plug and install the new NGK plug I just bought, then drain the gear oil and replace that...
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Post by keltex78 on Dec 17, 2013 16:34:34 GMT -5
First ride on new tires today! A bit breezy this morning at ~28 degrees but much nicer this afternoon. The smoother tread on the new Shinko tires... www.motorcycle-superstore.com/15040/i/shinko-sr429-front---rear-scooter-tire...seems to have done a lot to smooth the ride out and I'm very happy with the new tires. I'm hoping to get a little more than 3500 miles from this set, but the tire swap was easy enough that I'm not worried about the next change. On very smooth pavement and at highway speed, I'm noticing some vibration, so I think some wheel balancing may be in order. Does anyone have any experience with this wheel balancer from Harbor Freight? www.harborfreight.com/portable-wheel-balancer-39741.htmlThe bubble-style wheel balancer just seems like it would be a better option than the cheaper axle-rod style: www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-wheel-balancing-stand-98488.htmlDoes anyone use either of those and can comment on performance? Either way, I'll wait for it to go on sale and then use my 20-25% off coupon...  |
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Post by rockynv on Dec 18, 2013 5:06:37 GMT -5
Be mindfull that proper tire inflation has a very critical role in obtaining the best tread life. Over inflate the tires using the MAX pressure listed on the sidewall and you can cut your treadlife to 1/3 to 1/4 of what you would get with the inflated to what is on the bikes tire inflation plaquecard.
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Post by scooter12 on Jan 3, 2014 23:14:20 GMT -5
Ya, I brought my tire and rim to be changed at Goodyear. They used a screw driver and bent the rim. I figured it would be ok because it held air. After placing back on scoot, got a 1/2 mile up the road and 35 mph the rim gave and tire went flat instantly. Came off the rim. Had to order a new rim and have tire replaced. This time brought to Honda shop and had machine put tire on rim. Machines get it correct everytime.
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