Synthetic oil vs oil cooler--Opinions please.  By  makarov (Read 1,379 times)

Selecting thicker oil, and hi-octane fuel kind of helps when the engine overall is running hotter.
5W30, or 10W30 kinda act like water at high temperatures. I never use them.
15W40 is probably the best oil you can select.
15W50 may be too heavy (for diesel engines), and 10W40 has too much thickening agents in them, and too little oil.

Meaning 15W40 will last you longer than 10W40, all the while it is better able to deal with greater heat.

Oil is cheap and easy to change . I have seen oil colers from 50 to 200 but it would depend on if the pump was strong enough to to use it or require an extra helper pump

Good info.---I am going to go with the sythetic oil and forget about the oil cooler.

The best and cheapest protection of any air cooled engine is to make sure it does not run lean, particularly as high power output. A little rich really helps a bit. Check the plus after a short hard run, should at least be a little coffee color. If I am really hard on it, I would like a lttle carbon better than a white plud.

humm, imo. make no doubt , synthetic is good stuff .
Way slicker then conventional (mineral) oil from the ground.
The reduced friction definitely helps keep the overall temps down.
You cannot break an engine in on synthetic , I've tried.
It just pumps oil out the valve cover back into the motor and smokes out the exhaust forever.
Once the engines in broke in , I been just (over) running wal-marts super tech synthetic 15/40 till I bust something again.
Keeps the engine real clean.
It's the best way I've found to naturally wash an old mineral oil run motor out without adding dangerous thinning agents like chemtrol b12 to get the sludge out.
Every oil change it pulls more and more sludge off the walls , makes it not so bad once you do got to split the engine imo.

Oil coolers concern me without having a higher volume oil pumps readily available to compensate the extra tunnel built.
I haven't seen any oil pumps readily available for purchase , most just seem to be with the kits.

a compact car transmission or power steering pump radiator/cooler off the sub-frame might work as well.
You'd need a deep threaded fitting through the oil outlet (presently plugged) on right front side of the gy6 oil case. It's got to be threaded deep enough to divert the direct oil pump outlet flow to the cooler first then back to the chamber next to the outlet where it normally flows feeding the rest of the engine . A check valve might be needed to keep the system filled preventing dry start ups.
I dunno , those kits are expensive imo.

Lulz , the 150's are cheap enough for me to try one day . ;D

Even keeping the diameter using say thin copper tubing, how badly would the added length (if any, hydraulically speaking ) cause starvation . If everything is sealed, high pressure low volume should be kept, rite?

Harley simply runs their return oil down outside tubes from the heads back to the crank case keeping them plenty cooled. Seems a little dose alot for them