Post by brandjur on May 7, 2013 11:42:32 GMT -5
Got the Power Pack 72cc kit from Enviromoto yesterday afternoon. Also got an unsealed carb, CDI, fuel and vacuum lines, tire valve stems, and sprayed rust treatment on the frame where I saw rust. I sprayed the welds just in case there were rust spots I couldn't see.
Measured the ring gaps pre-install. Staggered rings. Changed jet to #
. Used assembly lube where I could. Changed fuel and vacuum hoses. Wiped and marked the matching chain and cam gear with a sharpie prior to removal so that it insured I didn't skip a tooth later. My upper plastic chain guide was too wide so I had to razor cut a small piece off of it to fit in the new cylinder chain opening. Set the valve lash. I zip-tied the vacuum hose from the removed air box onto the frame high after installing the Uni filter.
Scooter wouldn't start at first. Double checked there was spark and re-intalled spark plug. Then when I tried again, I could tell it was trying to catch. Adjusted the idle and A/F mixture and it started right up. Did initial idle and A/F adjustment without performance CDI first. Then after I checked it was running fine, I added the CDI and re-set the idle and A/F. Finished the install at 11pm last night so I couldn't take it out. Will ride it today to re-tune and start hard break-in.
Already had 15w-40 Rotella so I will use that for the hard break-in for the 1st 20 miles to set the piston rings. Then I have Castol GTX 10w-40 for the follow-up break-in and Castro Syntec 4T after that. Engine already has 300 miles and by this many miles the cam lobes should be matched to the rocker arms. Someone mentioned about BMW not needing a break-in period and from my understanding, BMW uses a coating or a softer outer metal for the camshaft so that the initial grooves for the lifters and camshaft wear/match early. These Gy6 engines are not made like that, so a hard break in to set the piston rings and then a normal break in period for the cam lobes and other surfaces might be needed.
I still have to do the valve stems and the variator weights. I will wait on the variator weights until I can get a better idea of the power band and torque curve. Then I will match the weights to it. I do have 7g sliders for now that came with the kit.
After re-building and stroking a dozen car engines, this is by far the easiest install I have done. Most of the work is done before the install. I have read too many times where people make impulse decisions to buy and install without looking at the balance of the engine or how to build it up in stages. Then people spend more time later trying to trouble shoot and fix. I am use to blue-printing an engine, getting the right tools ready, having a laptop & phone nearby just in case for help, and then going into surgery. Like painting,
% of the job is in the prep work.
Hope you enjoy my install. If not, then just ignore it.
Now time to test this thing. ;D
Measured the ring gaps pre-install. Staggered rings. Changed jet to #
. Used assembly lube where I could. Changed fuel and vacuum hoses. Wiped and marked the matching chain and cam gear with a sharpie prior to removal so that it insured I didn't skip a tooth later. My upper plastic chain guide was too wide so I had to razor cut a small piece off of it to fit in the new cylinder chain opening. Set the valve lash. I zip-tied the vacuum hose from the removed air box onto the frame high after installing the Uni filter.Scooter wouldn't start at first. Double checked there was spark and re-intalled spark plug. Then when I tried again, I could tell it was trying to catch. Adjusted the idle and A/F mixture and it started right up. Did initial idle and A/F adjustment without performance CDI first. Then after I checked it was running fine, I added the CDI and re-set the idle and A/F. Finished the install at 11pm last night so I couldn't take it out. Will ride it today to re-tune and start hard break-in.
Already had 15w-40 Rotella so I will use that for the hard break-in for the 1st 20 miles to set the piston rings. Then I have Castol GTX 10w-40 for the follow-up break-in and Castro Syntec 4T after that. Engine already has 300 miles and by this many miles the cam lobes should be matched to the rocker arms. Someone mentioned about BMW not needing a break-in period and from my understanding, BMW uses a coating or a softer outer metal for the camshaft so that the initial grooves for the lifters and camshaft wear/match early. These Gy6 engines are not made like that, so a hard break in to set the piston rings and then a normal break in period for the cam lobes and other surfaces might be needed.
I still have to do the valve stems and the variator weights. I will wait on the variator weights until I can get a better idea of the power band and torque curve. Then I will match the weights to it. I do have 7g sliders for now that came with the kit.
After re-building and stroking a dozen car engines, this is by far the easiest install I have done. Most of the work is done before the install. I have read too many times where people make impulse decisions to buy and install without looking at the balance of the engine or how to build it up in stages. Then people spend more time later trying to trouble shoot and fix. I am use to blue-printing an engine, getting the right tools ready, having a laptop & phone nearby just in case for help, and then going into surgery. Like painting,
% of the job is in the prep work.Hope you enjoy my install. If not, then just ignore it.
Now time to test this thing. ;D
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