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BBK Carb ?
by: geh3333 - Feb 5, 2016 23:18:01 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Feb 5, 2016 23:18:01 GMT -5
The key is to match every port as close as possible. I have no problem with telling you to go with a 24 mm carb. My carb on the 150 with a 58.5 bbk is a 32mm . my intake manifold is a 30mm , and I'm not sure what the intake port is on the ncy 58.5 racing head ? But I'm sure its not 32mm . I'd say go with the 24 mm carb and see what size manifold u can get. Alright, GEH, I ordered just a stock 150cc carb for $20. And, a stock 150cc manifold. A couple of questions: It does not say what size main jet it comes with. I have the 52mm BBK. What size main jet should I go with. I run a 43 idle, and a 94 main on my 20mm carb right now. Should I put the 43 idle in the new one, and just roll with the main jet that is in it? I think it will come with a jet between 100-108, right? Honestly , I would throw the carb in " as is " and see what the performance and plug is like . |
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Post by geh3333 on Feb 5, 2016 11:33:01 GMT -5
I agree your def running too rich and that's why the plugs are fouling.
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Post by geh3333 on Feb 5, 2016 0:38:25 GMT -5
What do the bad plugs look like ? Can u post a pic ? this could tell us the problem .
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50cc vs 150cc
by: geh3333 - Feb 5, 2016 0:26:36 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Feb 5, 2016 0:26:36 GMT -5
I have a 50 with 40K miles on it. I have another one that is modded up to 100cc, and it is ridiculously quick. It has so many mods that it is less reliable. Stock, they are probably pretty equal in reliability. Your point about lights is backward: AC lights are only on when the engine is running. DC systems sometimes have lights that come on with the key, but you don't want to elrun the lights on these little batteries. I have enjoyed teaching myself how to work on these scoots. I will probably move up to a 150 here soon. But, I will end up modding it to the max, so it runs like a 250. Ha. I was able to get the 150 with a 58.5bbk and all the other mods " besides crank" to hit 67-68 on straight runs and up to 80 mph down a big hill, lol. I posted a 10 mile video of my scoot hitting 67 on straight runs and 76 down a semi big hill. The video had the GPS in the top corner showing the speeds . The main thing to remember is that I'm about 206-215 lbs , so imagine a 120-150 lbs rider. Nearly 65-100 lbs lighter would really let the scoot run closer to 75 mph on straight runs , maybe higher. Just a quick CVT adjustment and that thing will fly !! |
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Post by geh3333 on Feb 5, 2016 0:19:13 GMT -5
I see what you are saying. I should have said the ground wire for the tail light. It's either the ground wire, or the hot wire. That is the case for both the dash, and the tail lights. There is only two wires to each one. Check the green wire on each for continuity with the frame. If that checks, then you are not getting 12v to the item in question. I knew what u meant , lol |
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BBK Carb ?
by: geh3333 - Feb 5, 2016 0:15:06 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Feb 5, 2016 0:15:06 GMT -5
The key is to match every port as close as possible. I have no problem with telling you to go with a 24 mm carb. My carb on the 150 with a 58.5 bbk is a 32mm . my intake manifold is a 30mm , and I'm not sure what the intake port is on the ncy 58.5 racing head ? But I'm sure its not 32mm . I'd say go with the 24 mm carb and see what size manifold u can get.
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 28, 2016 11:42:08 GMT -5
Now I am scared I have damaged my crankshaft. I do not have torque wrenches. I am a backyard warrior. I suppose I need to get some, but where do I find the information on proper torque settings for clutch and variator nuts on Chinese 50cc scoots? I just set my impact on the lowest torque setting, which is "1", it goes to 3. That has always held the nut on. I would not worry, the main damage you could cause would be stripping the threads on the end of the shaft. The possibility of damage to the rest of the crank comes from actually spinning the crank a bunch with the impact. I agree 100% . and like I said , I myself have never seen the crank threads strip. Most of the time the nut threads will strip first. I imagine the nuts are a softer metal. Also , if your spinning the crankshaft with an impact , your putting the nut on too tight. It only takes a few hits with an impact and you should hold the variator " drive face " with your hand. This way the crank shaft should only move a tiny bit. Over 4 years of wrenching on the CVT , I've removed the variator at least 200 times . I constantly would tune the CVT , clean the variator , change belts and whatnot . I have never done any damage to the crank shaft with my 8 amp electric impact. I'll post o pic of the beast . |
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 28, 2016 7:31:10 GMT -5
The good thing is that its the nut that usually strips out not the shaft " at least on these scoots " I myself have never seen the crankshaft or the clutch shaft strip before the nut. And yes I'm talking about the threads.
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50cc vs 150cc
by: geh3333 - Jan 26, 2016 9:35:25 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 26, 2016 9:35:25 GMT -5
The only 50cc scoots I've ever actually riddin were ones my dad and I rented down in north Carolina while we were on vacation. After I road them , I had to buy a scoot . finally about 4 years later I did purchase my first scoot . me being a 200+ lbs rider , the 150cc had plenty more power then the 50cc . even with the 150cc , I still had to modify the engine so I was able to ride in traffic between 50-65 mph . its nice to have the power to be able to pass cars if need be , or the power to be able to run at 55 mph and not be at WOT .
I'm sure there are many who prefer a 50cc over a 150cc and its actually probably impossible to say which is better since its mainly based on opinion . one of the only aspects we can use to determine which scoot may be better would be the weight of the rider. For instance a 300lbs person would benefit greatly from a bigger framed 150cc scoot. I would expect the 150cc " in this situation " would be safer and not have to work as hard to get from one place to another. But other than the weight of the rider , I'm not sure there is any other way we can determine which is " better "
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50cc vs 150cc
by: geh3333 - Jan 25, 2016 21:48:24 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 25, 2016 21:48:24 GMT -5
I'm def a 150cc scoot person. Now when it comes to which is better , its almost impossible to say. I do think that if we were able to test a 50cc vs a 150cc in an environment where all aspects of wear and tare are equal. We would find that a 150cc would have less wear lugging a 200lbs rider around compared to a 50cc engine. There are so many aspects at play in our day to day riding that out of a controlled environment 50cc scoots I'm sure have outlasted many 150cc scoots . on paper a 150cc engine should last longer then a 50cc engine pulling the same load. Either way , I would always lean towards the 150cc over a 50cc , for many other reasons like safety , power , etc.
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 22, 2016 17:01:15 GMT -5
I would def rule out the starter first because if I'm not mistaken , the starter sometimes can make a similar noise when going bad.
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 22, 2016 16:56:55 GMT -5
I shouldn't say 100% , but its hard not 2 since I had the same issue, with the same sound. If you have ruled out the starter , then its def the clutch.
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 22, 2016 16:55:50 GMT -5
I just listened to the video . I'm 100% sure its the starter clutch. Mine sounded exactly like that . I thought it was the starter at first , but after trying 2 different starters , the sound was still there.
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 22, 2016 16:53:42 GMT -5
Thanks everyone for the advance I'll pull the starter out first and check it out before I order a new starter clutch. now that you've made me think about the sound I hear could very well be the starter bearing going bad. thanks again. later I bet its the rollers slipping on the starter gear, which means the starter clutch is bad. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 22, 2016 7:05:05 GMT -5
Not sure how the word " new " made it into my post , lol.
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