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Post by pistonguy on May 21, 2018 17:54:39 GMT -5
Ok good, I'm as like a tech lets go thru a systematic approach and eliminate things move forward.
Even easier than trying to dump fuel directly into the plug hole is to simply pop the carb to the side and dump fuel directly into the port, if she fires you know for sure you have a delivery problem.
Good Luck..
Ok if inconclusive lets get drunk and sleep on it and figure it out tomorrow.. lol
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Post by pistonguy on May 21, 2018 10:56:21 GMT -5
Have you just simply dumped some fuel directly in the Intake port or Spark plug hole? if she isn't getting fuel she will instantly fire this way.
or just hit it with some starting fluid and if she instantly fires you have now confirmed you have a fuel delivery problem..
These are two sure fire ways to quickly without taking all kinds of things apart to confirm you have a delivery problem.
Also have tried Hand choking the carb? with filter off block of the carb with your hand you will know immediately if she is sucking fuel.
Next to the emissions the first thing I replaced was the idiot choke with a manual cable.
The last thing I would recommend is to purchase all kinds of more parts.
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Post by pistonguy on May 21, 2018 9:52:49 GMT -5
It's a sym piston,,,completely different animal Ok I see a Plated Cylinder thats it.. anything else? So at 22,000 miles since top end build she drinks like half the crankcase oil in 600 miles, I'm not impressed. So at 11,000 was she drinking 25% of the crank case? Wonder what could be done with a high end oil and oil changes when they were supposed to be done. |
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Post by pistonguy on May 21, 2018 8:36:52 GMT -5
I use one of these to tune, I have immense seat of the pants but still rely on the Tach www.trailtech.net/tto. |
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Post by pistonguy on May 21, 2018 8:34:41 GMT -5
Have you put the Scooter on the center stand and removed the belt and pinned throttle? if so what happened.
Have you worked the Throttle valve with your hand to make sure it is opening all the way ?
You need to get a tach to tune for sure, she doesn't sound on the video she is running past 5,000rpm,
On the center stand make sure the rear brake is not dragging..many of the drum wheels are out of round and a user must adjust them up to were there dragging to have any working rear brake..
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Post by pistonguy on May 21, 2018 8:24:10 GMT -5
Ok first since this is new to you you must get a Tach on her to tune. you really have no idea what 5,6 or 7,000rpm sounds or feels like and even if you heard it couple times it takes a ton of experience to tune by the seat of the pants. We really need to know the rpm's at the top to determine if they are to high What about your Clutch and main Springs what are they? What was your old Vari? What is the new Vari? What gram weight rollers were in your old Var? Have you put the old Vari back on and what result did you get? What was you jetting before? Is your jetting correct across the rpm range? have you read the plug? have a pic of the plug? Pictures tell a ton, take and post a bunch of pictures. www.trailtech.net/tto |
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Post by pistonguy on May 21, 2018 8:10:54 GMT -5
Cometic is at the point on gasket technology, not many Gasket manufactures have three dyno's going all the time, ya just may bump into Tony Stewart, Clint Boyer or Ricky Carmichael.. They can whip up any custom in a plethora of materials in just a few days shipped. and MADE in USA www.cometic.com/p-35444-automotive.html |
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Post by pistonguy on May 19, 2018 6:59:27 GMT -5
LOl! here at Cometic we have been mfg multi layer stainless and other for some 30 years. The rivets are nothing more than to keep the multi layers together, thats it!! Here are a couple Head gasket with the same rivets. Good Luck.   |
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Post by pistonguy on May 18, 2018 18:07:32 GMT -5
Ok I think I understand now ,so what your saying is even if I were to purchase a new crank it still will have to be balanced ? Or am i wrong.is there anyway I can get a real answer out of this in plane angles Yes, Your OE Crank is Balanced for the Standard Bore (39mm) Piston Weight, the Big Bore 50mm and 52mm Piston assy are much heavier so the assy is spun and weight is either added or subtracted to the Crank. So no there is No Such thing as a drop in crank that is balanced for the Heavier Big Bore Pistons... |
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Post by pistonguy on May 18, 2018 10:08:37 GMT -5
All I'm saying is that you will sacrifice some reliability over stock with a BBK and a stock crank setup that hasn't been improved in some way. I think that's something everyone can agree on, and I think it would be irresponsible of me to represent otherwise. Also, Falicon is good people... and our neighbors. Matt Hey Vendor Falicon is your neighbor so grab some Cranks along with 50mm and 52mm piston assy and have them balanced then Market your the Only ones with a Balanced Rotating assy that will live. This is common practice in the automotive world, custom Strokes, Rod Lengths and pistons and is sold as a Spun Rotating assy and that way average Joe doesn't have to find a shop to spin it, and the sell more product. |
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Post by pistonguy on May 18, 2018 7:03:14 GMT -5
The Quality or Beefiness of the Crank is Irrelevant, The Rotating assy is Out of balance.
A New Crank will be far better than your old crank.
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Post by pistonguy on May 16, 2018 22:02:23 GMT -5
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Post by pistonguy on May 16, 2018 22:00:40 GMT -5
crankworks.com/Some of my homeboys at crank work will take care of business.
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BBK brands
by: pistonguy - May 16, 2018 21:51:51 GMT -5
Post by pistonguy on May 16, 2018 21:51:51 GMT -5
Ok all cool
good your on the heal
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Post by pistonguy on May 16, 2018 21:48:48 GMT -5
Ok ill clear up the misinformation here.
Mainly because the Scooter world especially 50cc the idea of Spin Balancing a Rotating assembly seems to be some foreign subject.
The problem of such a increase in Piston assy weight is easily and inexpensively sending your Rotating assy to one of the fine Crank companies in the states and have the Rotating assy spun balanced and the Crank pin welded for under a hundred bucks.
So it only Pounds the crank because you did Not do a proper and correct job of having the assy spun.do that and you won't have any crank or rod problems
The other thing your doing that leads so many to failures is the engine is already clapped out and from the boards get taped into a bbk, well how well do you think the cracnk is going to hold up when its almost done and you have doubled the horsepower?
The other thing is how many bbl kits of 50mm and 52mm do you think these scammers could sell if they told you you had to do crank work? darn near None! Us USA manufactures do not do business in such a unscrupulous way.
The is not such thing as in building lets a a small block chevy and throwing a crank as set of rods and a pistons and Not having the assy spun its mandatory.
On my big bore kits for bikes as a example a 883 Harley is a debar 1200, well pistons available were so much heavier you Had to rebalance the assy, well heck we design a 1200 piston for the 883 that was the same weight as OE and a reverse dish on the dome to maintain stock compression ratio for $210 and change with No Balancing or Head work Required, I columned keep them on the shelf.
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