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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 8, 2015 13:21:14 GMT -5
I love to see another ride back on the road!!!
Do you feel more confident about adjusting the valves?
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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 8, 2015 13:17:12 GMT -5
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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 8, 2015 13:14:22 GMT -5
The manual for the sensor I have states: The maximum temperature of the sensor at the bung (the sensor mounting location) should not exceed 500 oC or 900 oF. If these temperatures are exceeded in your application you should install the Innovate Motorsports HBX-1 heat sink bung extender.  /n 3729.) Using a clock as reference, mount the bung between the 9:00 o’clock and 3:00 o’clock position. Welding the bung in the lower section of the exhaust pipe can result in sensor damage caused by condensation making contact with the sensor’s internal heating element. A 1” bung (provided in the kit) will best protect the sensor. When fully threaded, the sensor’s tip will sit flush with the exhaust pipe, this does not adversely effect the readings. Source: www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/MTX-L_print%201.2.pdf |
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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 8, 2015 12:59:37 GMT -5
Just trying to keep it clean. IF there is a perfectly good hole there already, I wouldn't want to make another. I'm not going to make a decision on mounting till I have parts in hand, and can determine the best orientation for everything. I am the same way. It would just bug the heck out of me drill a hole in the pipe when there is already one there. Since you are waiting a little till installation. It may be helpful the get an infered thermometer to test how hot the pipe gets in the selected location. That why you could see if you are within operating temps. My ride to work takes about 10 minutes. During this cold season the location of my sensor gets to about 450-500F. |
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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 8, 2015 11:15:33 GMT -5
I did a double take of the pic you provided and it got me thinking, I'm not sure how well your plan would work, even using a *45...... When I first looked at your pic, I was thinking of just whacking the end off, low enough so the tip would be in your exhaust flow... thread it right into the pipe and not use a bung... Of course you need to know the diameter of the pipe, I can get ya measurements of the o2 sensors threaded area if ya need... The bung is just an exhaust port and you don't need it, you only need something to thread the o2 sensor into.... As far as adding to that pipe....Not so sure how well that would work... I would advise completely removing it, if, and only if, you feel confidant you can remove all the weld build up around the new hole... You will need a nice and smooth surface to have your bung welded to.... If I were you, I would start with getting a measurement of the diameter of that egr port.... Is it angled towards the ground? The EGR port runs straight along ground level. I was planning on cutting the tube off with just enough meat to thread a bung into for mounting the O2 sensor. They make 45 degree bungs just for O2 sensor mounting. There are cutoff ones like this for welding on:  And threaded ones like this that I was thinking of trying since I don't have a welding righ:  There are also  degree bungs, but I'm not sure I could make one fit: UE9s3wBnF5BQU6tzfD)Q~~60_58.JPG) If necessary, I'll ask a friend to weld one on, should cost me more than a 12 pack. If I can tap it instead, then I can plug it back up much easier if things don't work out. If the port runs straight along the bottom go with the bung with the angled cut. |
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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 8, 2015 11:12:31 GMT -5
Taking the entire pipe off will make it much easier to work with on the bench. Next I would grind the EGR port off right were it meets up with the exhaust pipe. That will give you a very easy surface to work with. Then depending on how deep the sensor sits after the threads will be how big your bung needs to be. Like the one I have was 1/2". You want to tip of the sensor to be slightly poking in the exhaust has flow. From there weld it on in the 1-3 o'clock position. The bung cap will also be helpful for plugging it when not using the sensor.  |
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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 8, 2015 1:12:24 GMT -5
I agree with dmartin95, the location should work. The orientation will be critical to avoid moisture. Ensuring that you have no leaks in the pipe is also critical. If you have any the readings will trend toward the lean side. When I installed my sensor I noticed a weld point that was leaking from poor construction. Once I fixed it my readings were much better. |
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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 7, 2015 22:23:57 GMT -5
Upgrade one at a time. If you start throwing a bunch of modifications on at once, if something doesn't "jive" you will have a of a time determining what is causing the problem.
I would say change the muffler then work on tuning the carburetor by jetting. Once the carb is in a happy place experiment with rollers to find what gives you the desired RPMs, low end and top end speed. Heavier for slower take off but higher top end, lighter for faster take off but longer time to max speed.
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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 7, 2015 11:04:04 GMT -5
I would prefer the boxy back in. It looks more retro. But the front definatly needed a "nose job".
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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 7, 2015 10:46:07 GMT -5
I like the new look. The new front looks more modest. The old just hangs out a little too much.
You should have created a poll like they have for the Monday things.
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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 7, 2015 10:31:52 GMT -5
jerseyboy. That's the one. And you did a very good job with the explanation. Best I have seen.
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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 7, 2015 10:20:19 GMT -5
I'll try to find that video. It explained all the rings very well. It was a member from the forum. He also drew the lines on the piston to ensure the gaps were separated. I think the marker was blue if that helps anyone to remember.
I forgot to ask, but since you will being installing a new kit. Does that mean your scooter is still eating oil, smoking, and popping?
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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 7, 2015 10:16:40 GMT -5
Tuning my carburetor was a breeze for me, but I cheated by installing a wideband O2 sensor. That by far is the best modification someone can make. The installation was super easy. Only other modifications has been a Unifilter, 12gram weights, and PAIR removal. Stock carburetor and exhaust on 150cc. Started with a 115 jet, but saw I was running way too rich. My goal was the stay in the 13.5:1 fuel/air ratio. The 115 was reading in the low 12:1 from 1/4-WOT. 12.2:1 is the max rich, and 14.7:1 is the max lean. The 110 was an improvement, but I was still running rich in the 1/2-WOT. Right now I am running a 104 jet. I have found this one to run consistently in the mid 13s:1 from 1/4-3/4 throttle. Once I pass 3/4 throttle the mixture falls to the high 12s:1. For this setting I also dropped the clip on my needle one notch lower. Before I dropped the clip I was running slightly too lean. Without the sensor I'm sure it is a very difficult process to ensure all portions of the throttle is getting the right mixture ratio.   |
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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 7, 2015 9:22:00 GMT -5
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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 6, 2015 22:10:37 GMT -5
That's great to hear. That is how you run a good business. For one quart of oil and maybe an hour worth of labor, they possible have 2 or 3 new customers from this board.
At the very least JS will be a returning customer.
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degree bungs, but I'm not sure I could make one fit: