|
|
Post by urbanmadness on Sept 13, 2014 0:30:43 GMT -5
When I do a belt, I usually put it on the clutch pulley, then give it a good tug. It will usually open the clutch pulley enough so it will sag in the Variator a bit. Then when you tighten the variator nut, you can be sure it seats the driven face fully into the splines. If the belt is too deep into the variator, then it's much harder to make sure that driven face is fully seated.
The washer spreads the load of the nut, so it is pretty important. Take the nut and the driven face to the hardware store and find a washer that will work correctly. Ace seems to have the best selection of Metric Hardware unless you have like a Grainger in your neck of the woods.
Most Auto part stores and home depot have a very limited selection of metric hardware.
|
|
|
|
Post by urbanmadness on Sept 13, 2014 0:24:49 GMT -5
if it's gy6 based, and you are not having the symptoms of hard start or bad idle, then leave it be. Maybe plan on checking it at 1500 miles? Thanks guys! I appreciate the feedback. It is a GY6 based motor. It's Engine Type: BN157QMJ which is a ZNEN Longcase GY6 150cc. The motor doesn't "crank over" to start. You push the button and it just starts, hot or cold. The idle is the smoothest I've ever heard from a scooter. I've owned 4 spree's, 1 elite e and 6 "Chinese scooters" and I've never had one that runs this good. One more thing that has me concerned is I can't find what the clearances are. Bintelli makes good scooters, but terrible support and documentation. They make one manual for all of their scooters. It covers both 50cc and 150cc but has nothing to differentiate between the two. It says in the manual to set the clearances on both, the intake/exhaust to .003 in. The manual is written for a 50cc Bintelli scorch. However, I found other resources for 150cc gy6 to set the intake to .005 and the exhaust to .007... What do you guys set your clearances to? I seem to have the best results at .004 both intake and exhaust, but sometimes you end up with an od ball that will seem to run better at .005. I usually use the same for exhaust and intake. Your milage may vary. .005 and .007 seems like it would be a bit on the lose side. I would run at .004 and see what happens. Generally it's better to run looser rather then tighter but .007 seems way lose. Also, with these engines, the intake valve seems to hold the adjustment much better then the exhaust valve. The exhaust valve deals with a lot more punishment then the intake. Another side note: I can really see the Honda DNA in these clones when I work on my 1100CC goldwing. The valve adjusters are pretty much the same design as they are on the 50's and 150's. Just a bit bigger, and of course there are more of them. |
|
|
|
Post by urbanmadness on Sept 13, 2014 0:14:58 GMT -5
Every now and then I think about that---- adjusting the valves before any symptoms start of the gap(s) being too tight. If my scoot is running fine, I'll change the oil and that's pretty much it. I guess I'm curious as to what we'd benefit from by adjusting the valves before symptoms start, besides just avoiding poor/hard starting, lack of power...etc...etc. I think Rockynv posted something about that at one time, not too long ago. Sometimes, it's the frog in the boiling water syndrom. You don't think you have lost any performance, but you have. It has just happened over a long period of time. When you finally adjust the valves you notice a huge difference in MPG or acceleration is better etc. |
|
|
|
Post by urbanmadness on Sept 12, 2014 18:44:05 GMT -5
if it's gy6 based, and you are not having the symptoms of hard start or bad idle, then leave it be. Maybe plan on checking it at 1500 miles?
If it's not gy6 based, then it might be a good idea to check them since the manufacture recommends it at 500 and considers it part of break in.
Valve adjustments are NOT all that hard, but be prepared the first time you do one, as the first time you do it, it requires a bit more time. You develop a feel for the drag on the feeler gauge. Just take your time, and be patient.
A tip I give all new scooter mechanics is, use 1/4 drive ratchet sets instead of the 3/8 drive sets. It makes it much harder to over tighten nuts and bolts.
|
|
|
|
Post by urbanmadness on Sept 12, 2014 18:10:27 GMT -5
Best advice I can give you is to get some gear, and find some people who ride in your area. You can learn a lot riding with others. Always you just your rear brake in parking lots, especially when you are learning and turning.
Read everything you can about riding technique and take the msf course if you can.
Keep your head up and straight ahead when stopping and look where you want to go, don't fixate on where you don't want to go. Learn and practice these techniques and they will really help you when or if you move to a bigger heaver bike.
Try to keep your arms loose not all tensed up. This helps when you run into sand, or grooved pavement.
Learn to counter-steer to combat the wind.
Give it a month riding that kind of distance and you will feel at one with the bike. The Buddy 150 is a small bike you will get comfortable with quickly, it's a great choice for learning and the 150's are just a ton of fun.
|
|
|
|
Post by urbanmadness on Sept 12, 2014 8:20:11 GMT -5
I am still not sure the GY6 cylinder mount would be up to doubling/tripling the compression as the metal is pretty thin where the studs go in. My kid brother machines his own .049 diesel conversions which are already a glow plug compression ignited engine and close to being a 2 stroke diesel as they sit while the GY6 is far from that. You may not get it to run for very long or reliable enough to go further than a short demo run. you could girdle it? He's talking about using a Zuma engine. Are they interference style engines? Come on guys... a scooter rollin' coal.... California's worst nightmare! |
|
|
|
Post by urbanmadness on Sept 12, 2014 0:49:46 GMT -5
Why 4 stroke? Back when I was a kid, some of the guys would convert .049 engines to diesel. It only required changing the head and making a contra piston. You didn't have to worry about injection, etc. If you could run a two-stroke, I'm sure you could have a head machined out of a piece of bullet with a cnc mill (remember you are just looking for really high compression), and with a cvt, you could run lighter weights, so it could at least be tuned to make it work with the diesels extremely narrow torque curve most naturally aspirated diesels have. Your not going for speed, your going for milage. Just seems the simplest route to go. Going with the four stroke makes it a lot harder, as you will need to figure out how to increase the compression without having the valves collide with the piston so at the very least you will need to grind a cam for it. The extra compression is also going to be hard on the timing chain and it's a very tiny chain. Remember the compression will have to be in the neighborhood of 18:1 for it to light off. If you do a four stroke, your going to have to machine a head (cnc out of a bullet) with valves, valve seats and ports, your gonna have to grind a cam, and make a piston. The four stroke will have a wider torque curve, but will not make as much low end as the two-stroke. You will need some sort of injection. If you do a two stroke, you will need some sort of fuel injection and some sort of oil injection. But the head construction will be very simple compared to converting the four stroke gy6 even with the additional machine work involved with a contra piston. Either way, you will need to make head gaskets, probably out of sheet copper and you will probaly need to use larger barrel studs and tread inserts. Then with the two stroke style diesel, there are two ways to go. If you choose to go with a carbureted compression ignition, you can use a carb, but you usually have to add a little either to the diesel or you can go with a more conventional set up where the air charge is compressed, then the fuel is injected into the combustion chamber and the super heated air ignites the mixture. This does away with needing the either to lower the flash point of the fuel or the need for the contra piston. www.modelenginenews.org/faq/index.htmlwww.flyrc.com/make-your-own-diesel-conversion-head/en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbureted_compression_ignition_model_engine |
|
|
|
Post by urbanmadness on Sept 9, 2014 23:51:16 GMT -5
sounds like you are running too large of a valve gap. I run mine at .004 intake and exhaust. It will quiet it down quite a bit, and it will keep you from breaking a valve spring.
Another tip I can give you (if you don't already), I use only 1/4" drive ratchets on these bikes. It really makes it harder to over torque things.
|
|
|
|
Post by urbanmadness on Sept 9, 2014 23:42:22 GMT -5
With all the riders getting smeared in my area, it's time that even the 50cc bikes need an endorsement. Here you can ride a 150 with just a class C (no endorsement). We have to register, plate and insure 50cc's and up. Motorized bicycle's are technically not legal unless they have an automatic clutch, then they are considered mopeds. Yup, my China girl aint legal, but she shooo is fun!
|
|
|
|
Post by urbanmadness on Sept 9, 2014 23:35:12 GMT -5
I'm with Oldchopperguy in that I love the sporty looks of the new modern scoots, but also love the style and design of the older or vintage scooters. When looking to buy I came very close to pulling the trigger on one. But I also love the classic looks and relaxed ride position of the classics. The ride position on my lance is so comfortable I could ride it for hours with little fatigue. What won out from one design to the other was that I wanted to have room for a second rider that was as comfortable as possible. But I also wanted to stay within the 150cc platform. The little seats of the modern sporty designs just don't cut it for me in this regard. i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a624/xyshannen1/bikeseat1_zpsc3c61740.jpgAnd now that this is what I own, I'm really looking at things I can do to add to that vintage look. Big plans for this lil scoot, big plans. That leather work looks sweeeeet!!!!! |
|
|
|
Post by urbanmadness on Sept 9, 2014 23:33:40 GMT -5
urbanmadness geh3333 Thank you. Got the clutch off, but I cant seem to untangle this mess... any easy suggestions? i really do not want to take this apart.  Like I said, it's a mess when one of these belts goes. I usually use a box cutter, patience (helps to have that guns n roses song playing in the background), and maybe some beer.... You can work the pulley in and out, sometimes that will help (use your hands only, you could damage the pulley if you try to clamp in something like a vise or c-clamp. Those fibers a real bugger to get out of there. |
|
|
|
Post by urbanmadness on Sept 9, 2014 22:40:30 GMT -5
Umm, I really like the look of the old Joker clone (vintage, Verano, etc).... but i have a soft spot for those, as it was the bike that got me on two wheels. I also own an airbrushed 250 de touring bike.... awesome gas milage, but not quite up to freeway in my neck of the woods. Then of course the best scooter I've ever owned is my beat to death Scarebeo 500... Love the way that bike rides on the freeway, plenty of power to run on the freeway in the fast lane and doesn't get blown around, more storage then my '82 goldwing (believe it or not) Solid dependability, starts so easy everytime, any time (fuel injected), and is just a joy to ride, as long as you get used to the parking lot manners of a mac truck...LOL IT would be perfect if it had a stereo, and helmet locks (one thing I've grown to really love on the goldwing) My preference is the Scarbeo, hands down. I love the looks, I love the ride. The 150, well Most fun I've had on a scooter. The 250, a little more scoot then the 150, way better gas milage, can split lanes with lots of confidence (legal here).... very good all around handling bike.  My 250 before being airbrushed  500cc Scrabeo |
|
|
|
Post by urbanmadness on Sept 9, 2014 22:21:58 GMT -5
To get the clutch off it only requires a break over bar, someone to press the rear brake handle (or you can just use an impact wrench, then you won't need the second person on the brakes)... It's just the center nut on the clutch to remove the bell. Just clean it out.. keep your fingers off the friction surfaces (the bell and shoes).... Easy, peasy, lemon squeezie...
As for the variator weights, I had the same set up, Hoca 115mm variator with 12 gram rollers. It's a very good set up. I did try some 11 gram sliders, and while the bike was lots of fun, I took them out because my gas milage took a huge drop but man, it was fun!
I'd just leave the clutch as is, as far as upgrades, but then I'm pretty conservative. Maybe some of the guys that mod the heck out of the 150's will chime in.
|
|
|
|
Cushman II
by: urbanmadness - Sept 9, 2014 21:24:43 GMT -5
Post by urbanmadness on Sept 9, 2014 21:24:43 GMT -5
I didn't know they were building scooters still. Got pics or a link?
|
|
|
|
Post by urbanmadness on Sept 9, 2014 21:23:34 GMT -5
Yup, either a gates powerlink or a bando and you're golden. I've always run Gates Powerlink, belts in my rides except for the "Italian Job".
I do start inspecting them at 2k, regardless of what I'm running, except in the aforementioned Italian job. That bike has a 20k interval for belt changes.
I"d also take the clutch off and clean it out. Sometimes it gets into the bell. When these belts go, it takes longer to clean out all the pieces then it does to change them.
Glad it turned out to only be a belt.
|
|
