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Post by rockynv on Feb 28, 2017 12:37:36 GMT -5
rockynv you raised the following issue. "I could not see clearly enough from the picks if both sides of the head gasket are matching the machining of the head and cylinder. When you put the dowels in the head and lay the head gasket in place on it is the alignment good or are there areas where it just barely covers the cooling ports?" Does my picture in post 35 address your questions? I will use the old acorn nuts. See working late and not being able to go get replacements them paid off! I really want to get this thing back together so I can ride it soon. What steps do I need to follow to ensure that if I put it back together again it doesn't leak this time? In some areas then coverage looks a little close to the edge like the gasket is shifted too far away from the timing chain area hopefully in person its a bit better. If you put the head on without the gasket do the acorn nuts touch the head when their hand tightened? If so then you have no worries about them not being deep enough when the head gasket is in place. |
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Post by rockynv on Feb 28, 2017 5:25:27 GMT -5
I went down for the first time in about 45 years while wearing heavy jeans and the damage to my knees even though I rolled with it was unreal. I was wearing one of the least expensive mesh jackets from Leather Up ($49 on sale) and a pair of carbon fiber armored leather gloves from Cycle Gear ($29 on sale), Sketchers over the ankle leather boots ($45 on sale) and a Bilt Apollo full faced modular helmet ($  on sale) besides the jeans and base garments and the only damage was to my knees getting bumped on the pavement. Helmet and gloves showed damage that if I had not been wearing them would have required reconstructive surgery to my hands, face and jaw. I limped away and was back at work after a day for the swelling on the knees to go down though the nasty swelling and port wine bruises the entire length of my left leg the got pulled under the bike took many months to fully clear up. Gloves are perforated, jacket is mesh with level 3 armor built in and helmet is well ventilated so even here in the Deep South its not overwhelming and actually makes hot days more tolerable. I now have a $39 pair or armored over pants and a pair of $80 riding jeans with kevlar and armor that I wear one of every time I ride. Over pants are for when I need to wear business attire at the office or am going where jeans are not appropriate. |
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Post by rockynv on Feb 28, 2017 5:04:48 GMT -5
Using the end of your caliper is the correct method for measuring depth as long as you were certain to hit the button to calibrate it and zero it out before you began. i just cannot picture using calipers to measure depth. calipers, as in the "slide rule" type of micrometer. the depth gauges we used looked like a miniature draftsman T-square, but had the body of the C-clamp type of micrometer. sure, calipers can measure inside diameters, but depth? i don't know man, for some reason i don't see it. Have you ever used or looked at a set of calipers? The back end of them is a depth gauge. More versatile than a single purpose Micrometer which would require a set of three to cover the duties of one decent caliper and faster to use. Stop by your local Harbor Freight or other tool store and hold a set in your hands. You might be tempted to pick one up for you workshop.  |
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Post by rockynv on Feb 27, 2017 22:54:16 GMT -5
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Post by rockynv on Feb 27, 2017 22:37:08 GMT -5
You may end up with oil leaks if you use lock washers on that head since the valve cover appears to be an integral part of the head with the studs going right through it which is why they use the Acorn nuts to hold it on. Aluminum flat machined washers would be the most you would use with that type of setup if the studs sticking up through the head appear to be too long. You can measure with your calipers to see if the acorn nuts are deep enough to accept the length of the studs sticking up through the top of the head. Oil is many times pumped up via one of the stud bolt channels so if you do not use the acorn nuts you could have issues with oil leaks.
The book calls for oil to be applied to the head bolts so if you put them on dry then yes that would result in the clamping force being too light even though the torque was correct.
Using the end of your caliper is the correct method for measuring depth as long as you were certain to hit the button to calibrate it and zero it out before you began.
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Post by rockynv on Feb 27, 2017 22:17:40 GMT -5
I stand a towering 5'8", so the big Kymco may fit me. I admit that I am a Big Body. 6 foot tall size 50 with 37/38 inch sleeves wearing size 12 Quadruple E's so tight spaces and I are not a good match. I keep extolling the value of using a torque wrench because I have this bad habit of wrenching things past their point of failure. You should have seen the look on the face of the guy who told me to stop worrying and give it all I had when the flywheel then came off the engine of his cabin cruiser. Broke the end of the crankshaft clean off. |
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Post by rockynv on Feb 27, 2017 13:17:09 GMT -5
Those pins are short enough to work with a plain steel head gasket so with the laminated one you should have plenty of movemement to squish it unless the studs themselves are too short. I could not see clearly enough from the picks if both sides of the head gasket are matching the machining of the head and cylinder. When you put the dowels in the head and lay the head gasket in place on it is the alignment good or are there areas where it just barely covers the cooling ports?
Usually you start bolting the head back on at the top right bolt, bottom left, bottom right and then top left. First time you make them hand tight, next 5 lbs doing all four in the same pattern, 10 lbs doing all four again in the same pattern and then you can consider another increment between that and final torque or just go for it again following the same pattern. After the four main head bolts are torqued then you can tighten the timing chain side cover fasteners. If you do not follow a tightening sequence in an orderly and incremental fashion you can warp or crack the head and end up with frustrating leaks.
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Post by rockynv on Feb 27, 2017 12:54:54 GMT -5
I can't ride them because they are too cramped compared to my 250. They 500 and 700cc Kymco's feel like they squished them so that riding double on them is only possible for children but what child would you put on a 500 to 700cc bike. By the time your old enough to get a drivers license your too big for the bike. |
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Post by rockynv on Feb 27, 2017 5:17:22 GMT -5
Condition is everything. You don't know until you see and hear it running what your dealing with. When they linger they are either way over priced or there is a problem with the title, etc.
We keep seeing the same bikes from time to time around here being resold by different folks due to bad titles or being recovered thefts that were not quite right so you do have to be cautious. Sometimes you can't get the title due to a lock on it due to unpaid tolls or parking tickets.
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Post by rockynv on Feb 27, 2017 5:11:14 GMT -5
I wonder what would happen here if we had a tiered licensing system like they do in other parts of the world. Be fewer kids purchasing 1+ liter sport bikes and killing themselves riding off the showroom floor.
Saw one kid who had to be no more than 17 on a Ducatti Monster the other day and you could tell he was not an experienced rider yet there he was riding the Ducatti on the Interstate helmet straps flying, jacket unzipped, hiphugger jeans riding low and showing the moon plus wearing low Keds canvas sneakers and of coarse no socks.
Good candidate for the 9O or 125cc entry level bike.
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Post by rockynv on Feb 26, 2017 10:12:37 GMT -5
That new gasket does not look right. Where are the coolant ports? Is that a base gasket or from an Air Cooled engine?
Dowel pin holes are 17mm combined mated to 15.9mm pins so that along with the thickness of the head gasket should not be a problem.
Can you show a close up of the head gasket you used along with the same area on the cylinder and head where you saw the leak?
Also on the new head there appears to be a slot in the upper left corner of the picture that is not machined and seems to taper yet its profile appears on one of the gaskets. What is going though with that? Also there are a few ports on the new head that neither gaskets cover so are they blocked off or were screw in plugs provided with the head to block them off?
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Post by rockynv on Feb 26, 2017 9:49:24 GMT -5
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Post by rockynv on Feb 26, 2017 9:26:21 GMT -5
Thankfully the gear box cover is right behind the clutch and you can remove it without removing the engine from the bike. I would recommend getting a new gear cover gasket first as they can tear fairly easily.
If you are going to go in there you should probably consider getting at least new shaft seals and probably a new bearing for the clutch shaft since that is one of the weakest parts of the GY6 design.
Is there any wobble on the output shaft? If the seal on that side is bad then its likely that the bearing behind it is not in the best condition either.
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Post by rockynv on Feb 25, 2017 11:42:31 GMT -5
The $50 question is - Where did the water come from on an air cooled bike that has not seen water or rain "recently" yet suddenly have water in the gear oil?
Prank? Freak flood? Slept through the bad storm that hit while it was outside uncovered. That much humidity?
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Post by rockynv on Feb 25, 2017 10:25:41 GMT -5
I've read on more than one forum of acorn nuts bottoming before good clamping pressure is achieved But they look pretty. Test fit the head with the dowel pins in place but without the head gasket and see if the gap that remains is too big to compress the head gasket otherwise you have to measure everything to account for the length of the dowel pins, depth of the dowel pin sockets in the head and cylinder along with the thickness of the head gasket. One quick test is if you can slide the head gasket into the gap near the dowel pins then they are too long or the sockets are not deep enough. Do not recall if that one has seals on the dowel pins for piping engine oil to the valve train like the Aprilia/Piaggio/Vespa design. |
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on sale) besides the jeans and base garments and the only damage was to my knees getting bumped on the pavement. Helmet and gloves showed damage that if I had not been wearing them would have required reconstructive surgery to my hands, face and jaw. I limped away and was back at work after a day for the swelling on the knees to go down though the nasty swelling and port wine bruises the entire length of my left leg the got pulled under the bike took many months to fully clear up.
