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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 28, 2015 12:16:15 GMT -5
It's here !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! A few pix below of the work of art made for me by Martin's Lightspeed Scooters. A note first about shipping. One of my initial concerns was about the cost difficulty of shipping an engine across the country (I'm in San Diego; Martin's is in Michigan). That turned out to be a non-issue. I sent my old engine to Michigan for use as a donor of all the little bolts and stuff, first taking off the clutch, flywheel, etc. to reduce shipping cost. Outbound shipping was only $32. Martin's new engine (I paid for shipping both ways) came to me, 2,000 miles away, via FedX .... at only $42. Packing was great, no risk to the engine at all. So --- shipping is a total non-issue.
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 26, 2015 12:12:56 GMT -5
The problem, of course, is your stator is not generating enough power at low RPMs to power the H4s. Either live with it or upgrade your stator.
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 26, 2015 0:52:49 GMT -5
OK, see if this makes sense (this might be helpful to others in making gear set decisions) 1. First, we need to see what going from a normal (13 inch) wheel down to a 10 inch wheel does. The question is about the circumference of the tire - how far on the road it travels with ONE rotation. The circumference is from the diameter (times pi), and the diameter is made up of the wheel (say, 13 inches) PLUS the height of tire on the top AND the tire on the bottom. Typical 13" wheel and tire Tire - 3.58" on top and on bottom of wheel Wheel - 13 Diameter - 20.16 inches Circumference (distance traveled in 1 rotation) - 63.33 inches Typical 10" wheel and tire Tire - 3.31" on top and on bottom of wheel Wheel - 10 Diameter - 16.62 inches Circumference (distance traveled in 1 rotation) - 52.21 inches Effective reduction ratio = 63.33/52.21 = 1.22. So, if you are used to thinking about gear sets and ratios on a bike with 13 inch wheels, you need to think that going down to 10 inch wheels will be like adding another reduction gear of 1.22 to 1. Whatever ratio (on 13" wheels) you are thinking about, multiply it by 1.22 to find the "effective" ratio of the same gear set on 10" wheels.2. For the gear sets you guys have been speaking about: Ratio Gear Set Effective 13" Ratio - 10" 2.41 17-41 2.94 2.40 15-36 2. 2.38 16-38 2. 2.31 16-37 2.82 2.25 16-36 2.75 2.12 17-36 2.58 Makes a BIG difference going to 10 inch wheels! 3. Here is a chart showing how much the change to 10 inch wheels alters the "ratio" So, for example: Say you have 13 inch wheels and a 16/37 gear set (ratio 2.31 to 1). If you put 10 inch wheels on, and didn't change anything else, it would be like having a ratio of 2.82 to 1 ~~~~ which is even a taller ratio than having 14/39 gears in the bike with larger wheels! (see the earlier chart)
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 25, 2015 16:46:15 GMT -5
rcq92130, the smaller the first number the better the take off should be, or you need less torque to spin the wheels. I would recommend for sure not to go anything higher then 16 and I would personally stay on 15 max from what I know now. To be honest I would have been perfectly happy with my 16\38 gears, but the fact that my buddy on stock gears with all other mods being the same is faster all around is making me recommend to you to stay on a ration close to 2.5 max for you. You will probably hit about 70\75MPH with that OK, someone help me out here. An expert of another message board said about the same thing --- that a smaller countershaft (small gear) gear will give better off-the-line acceleration. My mind can't get there, so please tell me where I'm going wrong. Two setups, identical except for gears. One has a small gear of 14/37, the other a larger 16/42. Both those give a ratio of 2.65 to 1 ..... but one has a smaller first gear. Lain and another said this will give better low end acceleration. but that doesn't make sense to me. neither the engine nor the wheel knows how we got to a ratio of 2.65 to 1. All it knows is that for every 2,65 turns of the countershaft the wheel will turn once. I do not see any reason the smaller gear - matched to give the same overall ratio - will be any different .... unless you are talking about rotational inertia, and that just can't be a meaningful difference between the 2 gear sets. Help me understand where I've gone wrong. Please.
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 25, 2015 16:38:55 GMT -5
So what's the top speed now? Well, last night just before i work up I was doing just over 135 ....
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 25, 2015 13:43:24 GMT -5
I just learned that Martin's Superfast Scooters (aka, Martin's Scooters LLC) is likely to be named, or maybe already HAS been named, the OFFICIAL Taida engine builder for the USA.
It's not surprising! They are really, really exacting and particular in what they build !!!!!!!!!
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 25, 2015 13:39:33 GMT -5
For everyone's info, what we really are shooting for in selecting gear sets is the ratio, and there are a number of ways to get to the same ratio. This chart shows the resulting ratio for some popular gear sets. \ 14/37, 16/42 and 18/48 all give you just about the exact same ratio (approx 2.65 to 1). Anyone know if it's better to have a smaller diameter counter shaft gear (the smaller one)?
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 24, 2015 21:04:22 GMT -5
You got me.
For a minute there i thought you were being serious.
Good one.
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 23, 2015 23:28:10 GMT -5
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 23, 2015 21:09:37 GMT -5
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 23, 2015 8:26:45 GMT -5
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 22, 2015 21:17:09 GMT -5
I have found it helps top speed by pointing downhill with a tailwind ....
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 22, 2015 20:01:55 GMT -5
Take ANY wire that is "hot" when the ignition is turned on (and NOT hot wne the key is off) and connect it to a relay. The other side of the relay coil to ground. Run a wire from battery to the terminal side of the relay and the other spade of the terminal side to the pump. Then the pump is "on" when the key is on, off otherwise, with all pump current coming from the battery.
Plug that vacuum port and ride happily.
ps: I ended up also getting a cheap pressure regulator to make sure the pressure was only 2 psi into the carb. Thye needle valves in these things are cheap little things, not that good at a high pressure.
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 22, 2015 12:58:20 GMT -5
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 21, 2015 20:01:54 GMT -5
.005 inches is 10 times smaller than .05 inches (5 times smaller than the .02 inches you listed)
Maybe that is the "DOH!" issue ..... ?
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