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Post by rcq92130 on Oct 13, 2015 18:04:48 GMT -5
75 miles into the 300 mile break in period. Torture!
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Post by rcq92130 on Oct 9, 2015 12:46:52 GMT -5
Oil cooler connections and placement. This engine is designed from scratch to work with, and requires, an oil cooler. Unlike modified GY6 crankcases where the case is drilled to accept an oil cooler fitting, this Taida case is designed so ALL the oil from the pump travels first out the port to the cooler before being distributed to the engine. Fittings on engine:  Placement of oil cooler, behind front wheel  |
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Post by rcq92130 on Oct 8, 2015 20:18:49 GMT -5
Wow a 20 pole stator !!! Your gonna have the fastest , quickest, most reliable scoot in the US !! No kidding. The 30mm carb will be just fine for your setup. Do u know what size jets you are starting off with. I'd prob start with a 135 main and go from there. Maybe a 42 pilot ? It was J-Boy, I think, who pointed out there are 18, not 20, poles in the stator. Sorry! Starting to tune - first had to see if there were any air leaks (was running that badly). My biggest worry here is under the intake manifold -the 0-ring is some oddball size. Went to my all-purpose hardware store and replaced all the o-rings; this one was the only 1 I couldn't match. The manifold is perfect (size wise) with the oversized intake ports of the Taida head, so nice airflow. But the o-ring is weird, and not sure it's sealing properly. Added a little gunk to keep it in place & cross fingers. Went back to see what your jet recommendations and to peek in the carb to see what was there. Pilot: had a 38 and that's the biggest I have. So, will start there. If no good will get some bigger pilot jets. Main - had plenty of big ones (up to 145) and put in the 135 you suggested (had a 125 in there with the 61mm BBK. Tomorrow will see how that works |
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Post by rcq92130 on Oct 7, 2015 18:07:41 GMT -5
SHE'S A L I V E !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So here is a short video of the first start. I have an electric fuel pump, so none of that "chug-chug-chug-chug ..." you have to go thru with those damned vacuum operated pumps. Even so .... STARTED UP FIRST TIME !!!!!!!!!!! That ugly thing stuck into the enricher port is my old first try at a manual enricher. It's just there temporarily to fill in the enricher hole. The round chrome thing is the pressure regulator to keep fuel pressure into the carb at 2 psi. LOTS of tuning yet t do (runs way ragged). But - hey - first hit of the starter button and she fires  ? TAIDA, baby! View My Video
FORGET THAT LINK - FOR SOME REASON THE VIDEO GOT ALL DISTORTED WHEN IT UPLOADED TO THIS THREAD. HERE IS A CLEAN VIDEO (ON MARTIN'S WEBSITE) THAT ISN'T DISTORTED:
www.dansgaragetalk.com/topic/283-martin-mopeds-llc-is-building-me-an-engine/?page=2
GO TO THE BOTTOM OF PAGE 2
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Post by rcq92130 on Oct 6, 2015 19:00:23 GMT -5
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Post by rcq92130 on Oct 6, 2015 12:49:47 GMT -5
Back at it today ----- should see if she "fires in the hole".
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Dyna beads
by: rcq92130 - Oct 6, 2015 8:43:40 GMT -5
Post by rcq92130 on Oct 6, 2015 8:43:40 GMT -5
Just FYI, George:
I've been using them for about 4 years on my large motorcycle and think they are great! Did so once on the scoot, but later realized the little 10" tires do not even need to be spin balanced, let alone Dyna Beaded.
Red locktite, huh? Hmmmmmm ...............
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Post by rcq92130 on Oct 2, 2015 11:56:00 GMT -5
Mounting a GY6 - even this SuperEngine - is pretty easy - the whole shebang weighs less than 50 pounds! With the scooter on it's center stand (and all the wires, cables placed out of the way), place the engine under the frame. It's not necessary to use a jack to lift it, but I'm lazy and do use one. Here it is sitting on the jack, ready to be lifted in place:  I've found the easiest way is to first attach (temporarily) the shock to the mount bushing on the rear of the CVT case. That way the engine is held up and you only need to swing the front mounmt into place:  Next is the usual jockying around to get the front mount lined up with the holes in the scooters' arm. Just play around, get the first one lined up, push the long bolt thru this first side, then mess around with the position, using your jack, till the other side is lined up well enough to get the bolt all the way thru. On my scoot I then need to back the bolt out 1/2 inch or so to make enough room to get the washer & nut on (right side). A little Locktight, hand thread the nut, push the bolt home, more hand tight, then a little torque wrench and the engine is mounted.  At this point I put the wheel on because I'm paranoid of the scooter falling off the center stand and plopping down onto the engine case. It just slides on.  A little Locktight, the washer and nut, and the torque wrench:  Here it is mounted!  |
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 30, 2015 14:34:41 GMT -5
Yeah! Inside and out! Can't wait to test out the "inside" part!
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 30, 2015 11:46:43 GMT -5
And then the variator. This is my old Dr Pulley variator, which should be OK to use with the Martin's SuperEngine. Dr Pepper sliders are easy to install correctly - the brand name is molded into the side; simply install with the name visible. These are my super light sliders from an old engine, and will be way too light for this setup. But to get things going, I'll use them for the time being.  Then the rear plate  I lightly grease the boss, inside and out, but this is a very risky thing and might be better not done. This thing spins at 7,000 RPM, and anything that can be spit off the boss will be spit off the boss, coating belts, variator faces, and other things that should not have any grease on them. I put grease on and then basically wipe nearly all off, so only the thinnest of sheen remains (and have never had a problem with grease being flung about). But unless you are careful to not take almost all grease off, it's probably better to skip this step all together:  Then holding the variator face and rear plate together so the sliders do not fall out of position, slip the assembly onto the crankshaft  Fit the belt over the clutch and onto the boss  Fit the outer face, a little Locktight on the threads, then the washer and nut. Finger tight, then turn the variator so the belt is not pinched  And finish with a light impact wrench (or, get a tool designed to hold the variator from turning and use a torque wrench):  Add the CVT cover and the transmission side is done. Now install the shroud and intake manifold. This one has a large bore, perfectly matched to the over sized port in the Taida head. Also install a high torque starter. A normal starter motor is not adequate for this motor. Having in the past had an oil leak around the o-ring of the starter, making a total mess of the engine, I take no chances on this beautiful Taida engine and smear a little gasket sealant on the o-ring just to make sure no leaks.  Now ready to install the engine in the scooter! |
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 29, 2015 20:14:41 GMT -5
Wow a 20 pole stator !!! Your gonna have the fastest , quickest, most reliable scoot in the US !! No kidding. The 30mm carb will be just fine for your setup. Do u know what size jets you are starting off with. I'd prob start with a 135 main and go from there. Maybe a 42 pilot ? Yeah, I wish I remembered what I ended up putting into this carb. It's really a pain to put on and take off, because with the casting on the side for the pumper it gets wedged down behind and between braces, and getting it on/off is a drag. Maybe if i go back a year and check what I wrote up it will say ... Yeah. TWENTY pole !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Looks like a radial airplane engine, huh! |
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 29, 2015 18:30:04 GMT -5
Is it just me or is the fan on the wrong way? Ha! Cb, now you are sounding like Horace! |
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 29, 2015 16:21:52 GMT -5
Getting the brand new engine ready to install. A bunch of additional things to put on. First - Martins' gave me a cool 20 pole (yep - TWENTY !!!) stator, which needs to be mounted. Here it is with the wires nicely tucked behind the retainer.  The old stator had a ground wire (green) attached to the core on the inside surface of the stator; the new one didn't. Probably not at all necessary, but to make sure i added a ground wire to the new stator:  Next the flywheel (a new one to match the 20-pole stator). A moon shaped woodruf key fits in the slot of the crankshaft, and the flywheel's notch needs to match up so it slides over the woodruf key:  A little Locktight, the i use my harbor freight impact wrench to get the flywheel nut on tight. Do not use an air powered impact wrench - too much stress on the crankshaft. But this electric one is puny enough to not hurt anything.  Then the fan  Now on the other side, time to add the clutch and variator. First the clutch. This is my old OEM clutch - which clearly will not be adequate and will need to be upgraded. But to get things rolling, this will do for a short time. Again, a little Locktight and the impact wrench  Yet to do - variator and a few other items. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 28, 2015 22:43:46 GMT -5
Yes (I think).
but the larger wheel will make it seem like you are taking off in 2nd gear instead of first gear. Engine will struggle because the "effective" gearing will not be as low. But once going the little wheel scooter will redline while the bigger wheel scooter is just catching it's stride.
The difference is how effectively power is applied to the road.
And the big surprise (to me, anyway), is that the little 10" wheel makes a REALLY big change in the effective ratio between the clutch shaft and the road.
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 28, 2015 21:17:55 GMT -5
1. Yep - the bigger wheel's effect is that it travels further down the road in 1 rev ....
2. Nope, it's not just raw horsepower, otherwise there would be no gears in cars.
3. the smaller wheel, compared to the bigger wheel, is no different than having a final reduction gear that the bike with the larger wheel doesn't have. So the smaller wheel bike acts like it's in a lower gear at all times. All other things the same this means it will be faster of the line but top out at a lower speed.
4. What was surprising to me was the AMOUNT of impact the smaller wheel has (like a final reduction gear of 1.2 to 1). This means that even the tallest gear set - the 17/36 - acts like a SMALLER gear set on a 10" wheel than even the 17/41 gear set does on the 13' wheel (ratio on a 17/36 but with a 10" wheel = 2.6 to 1; ratio of a 17/41 on a 13" wheel = 2.4 to 1).
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