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Post by rcq92130 on Dec 2, 2015 23:21:00 GMT -5
Just went thru an NCY clutch install (plus gear change) and an exam of several variators. See below in the thread for "Martin's SuperEngine" --- last several pages. There is also a terrific link to a writeup on DansGarageTalk about transmission issues. About a year ago several here did a long comparison of variators - the DHL being the cheapest (and best one to avoid).
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Post by rcq92130 on Dec 2, 2015 19:08:30 GMT -5
GEH George donated his prized K&S variator ---- the one that got him to 75MPH on his Blue Demon (with only a 58mm BBK!). So, this is a comparison of my Dr Pulley variator versus his K&S with different weights. NOTE 1: "accelleration" is subjective; a best guess. NOTE 2: The Dr. Pulley costs TWICE what the K&S does, so it had better be WAY better! NOTE 3: For those who don't want to read ahead, the K&S is at least equal to the much more expensive Dr. Pepper. This was done really to tune the variator. I decided to pull the K&S off and run the scooter under the same conditions with the Dr. Pepper installed just to satisfy George's curiosity. Weights ranged from 14 grams, to 13 grams, and finally 12 grams. The first 2 were with rollers, the last with sliders. Most people say a 2 gram heavier roller set is equivalent to a roller set 2 grams lighter. That was NOT the case here - with either variator. Also, performance was EXTREMELY sensitive to weight! Belt climb was measured by marking the variator, doing a high speed run, and then seeing how much of the original mark was left (measured in 64th's of an inch). I tried to compare (seat of the pants) off-the-line accelleration. Did the best i could w/o actually conducting a measure 1/10th mile spped run. I also compared top speed ... sort of. Both variators got me easily up to 80 chinaMPH, with a good deal higher clearly possible ~~~ and the retro scooter is UNSAFE at any speed above 65mph. Even the worst variator tuning got me to 75mph, which is still scary as on this scooter. BOTH THE K&s AND THE DR. PULLEY WORKED BEST, BY FAR, WITH 13 gr ROLLERS (actually, 3 12gr rollers plus 3 14gr rollers). The Dr. Pepper seemed to have a little advantage in top speed (but, again, I was not brave enough to try past 80mph), while the K&S seemed a little better at acceleration. GIVEN THE DR. PEPPER IS TWICE THE COST, THE K&S IS CLEARLY THE BETTER CHOICE !!!   Note: I may have mixed up the pix for the Dr. Pepper variator and am too lazy to fix the pic. but you get the drift. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 29, 2015 14:45:54 GMT -5
This is about CLUTCH TUNING (see below, at the bottom, for a link to a wonderful guide on how to select different parts of not only the clutch, but also the variator, so you squeeze the most performance out of your engine The scooter has a full NCY clutch. Like maybe some others, I had not before messed around with the clutch ... so maybe this little write up will help some better understand. CLUTCH OPERATION: The "clutch assembly" really has two functions: 1. An actual 'clutch' - that spins freely until engaged (as if you were in neutral gear), and then grabs for positive connection between the engine and rear gears/wheel assembly 2. A part of the 'transmission' that varies the gear ratio between the engine & rear wheel much as your car's stick shift. Clutch part: this part of the clutch assembly consists of 3 pads like a drum brake. Springs hold the pads tight against the spindle at low speeds, so the scooter acts as if it's in neutral. Then, at a certain speed, the centrifugal force overcomes the power of the springs and the pads expand outward, pressing against the inner surface of a drum (again, just like a drum brake). This causes a positive connection between engine and rear wheel. Transmission part: Your variator is only 1/2 of the 'transmission' in your scooter. In the 'clutch assembly" is another pulley that does the same basic job of the variator - squeezing against the drive belt causing it to move outward toward the edge of the pulley and thus acting as if a larger gear was being used (or vice versa, allowing the belt to drop down into a smaller diameter part of the pulley). But - while the variator accomplishes this with rollers or sliders, the rear pulley in the clutch assembly does so with a strong spring called the contra spring. It presses against the pulley, pushing the 2 halves of the pulley together and forcing the belt to ride high near the outer circumference of the pulley. As rpms of the clutch assembly increase, the contra spring is compressed - the pulley halves separate, allowing the belt to ride lower in a smaller arc within the pulley. This acts like a smaller gear in the rear, which is good for higher road speeds. CLUTCH ASSEMBLY PARTS. Here are examples of the parts of the NCY clutch assembly: The pulley itself, called the Torque driver - www.ebay.com/itm/SCOOTER-150CC-GY6-NCY-RACING-PERFORMANCE-SLIDING-TORQUE-DRIVER-PLATE-ASSY-/191740307239?hash=item2ca49ce727:g:p18AAOSwPhdVIFADThe pad assembly (which includes the 3 small clutch springs) www.ebay.com/itm/SCOOTER-GY6-150CC-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-RACING-NCY-CLUTCH-NEW-GENERATION-/191734914710?hash=item2ca44a9e96:g:SxwAAOSwx~JWFCXuThe clutch drum "bell", which is like a brake drum against which the clutch pads press: www.ebay.com/itm/SCOOTER-150CC-GY6-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-RACING-NCY-CLUTCH-DRUM-BELL-/172005115206?hash=item280c4dc546:g:hd0AAOSwEeFVGaO6The Contra (or torque) and clutch springs, which are available in different strengths: www.ebay.com/itm/SCOOTER-GY6-150CC-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-NCY-CLUTCH-AND-TORQUE-SPRINGS-1000RPM-COMBO-/181918400530?hash=item2a5b2e8012:g:SH8AAOxyRhBSvcjV&autorefresh=trueMY CLUTCH PROBLEMI received part of my NCY clutch from the most generous and helpful scooter guy on the planet - GEH - and got part new. Once I had all the parts, I took the old OEM clutch off and just put the NCY parts on without thinking about tuning. It turned out there was a fundamental mismatch between the "GEH parts" and the new parts because the clutch springs in the new parts were not correct for the Contra (torque) spring that came from GEH. Performance sucked. The writeup in the link at the bottom here made that clear. The new pad assembly came with "red" clutch springs - very high performance that delayed the clutch from engaging until a very high RPM existed, whereas the yellow Contra (torque) spring that came with the GEH-donated parts was only a modest RPM strength. This allowed the pulley halves to separate long before the clutch pads engaged. Bad. Springs, generally, are color coded by strength as follows (Note: not all spring suppliers use this color scheme): OEM >>>> Blue (1,000RPM) >>>> Yellow (1,500 RPM) >>>> Red (2,000 RPM) A "1,000 RPM spring" means it is designed to engage 1,000 RPM HIGHER than the OEM springs. I ended up using the NCY Yellow (1,500 RPM) Contra spring that came with the GEH parts, and removed the ultra-high preformance red (2,000 RPM) small clutch springs and replaced them with nice blue (1,000 RPM) springs. The result: nice, smooth pickup from start to high speed! Changing either the Contra or the small clutch springs is a little challenging simply because the nut holding the clutch assembly together is large, and you will need a large crescent wrench to loosen or tighten it --- BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY BECAUSE THE CONTRA SPRING IS IN THERE UNDER A LOT OF COMPRESSION, AND IF YOU ARE NOT CAREFUL ONCE YOU LOOSEN THE LARGE NUT THE ASSEMBLY CAN FLY APART AND INJURE YOU. By standing on the assembly while you remove the nut, and then lifting your feet off the assembly gradually, you can release the tension without it going "sprong!!!!!". Stepping on the assembly is also a good way to compress the Contra spring so you can get the large nut started back on. Just use reasonable caution. Anyway, as promised, here is a WONDERFUL writeup on the selection of both variator and clutch weights and springs (the author is "BLK8WDW"): www.dansgaragetalk.com/topic/366-cvt-breakdown/?page=1 |
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 26, 2015 12:30:08 GMT -5
Excellent write up on a cheap O2 sensor solution! You should copy this to a thread in the Tips & Tricks section! Thanks, Jerry. Do with it whatever would be helpful to folks. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 24, 2015 12:40:31 GMT -5
OK, so our benefactor on DansGarageTalk- Dan Martin - urged me, when he was building SuperEngine, to get am air/fuel mixture system so I could tune without the guesswork. But the system was very pricey. So here is a VERY low cost yet VERY good system anyone can add.  COST: O2 Sensor ...... $ FREE (see below) O2 Sensor Bung ..... $2.  includes shipping Welding bung to Muffler ...... ?? (cost me $10) Wiring ........ $ more or less free Gauge ....... $12.19 includes shipping TOTAL: $25.19 plus the wire Bung: www.ebay.com/itm/160855809633?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITSensor: www.ebay.com/itm/171914557669?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITHow it works: The O2 sensor sits in the muffler and reacts to the oxygen content of the exhaust gas. The output of the sensor is a voltage .... 0.2 volts is a very lean condition, 0.8 volts very rich. A perfect combustion gives about 0.45 volts. So, all you need do is read the voltage of the sensor to know exactly how your carburetor is set up. You can actually do this with a simply voltmeter ... but with a nice, fancy gauge only costing $12 it's silly to not get one that interprets the output for you and tells you "lean" or "rich" instead of raw voltage. O2 Sensor: Use an old (no good) sensor from your car; it will probably be fine. In your car the computer corrects the injector duty cycle every 10th of a second or so, using the output of the O2 sensor to know if to inject more or less fuel. Thus, the O2 sensor must react QUICKLY to changes ... and over time loses it's ability to do so and your car will not pass smog. In our scooter we do not care about this reaction speed - an O2 sensor that reacts in a 1/2 second, or even a second, is fine. So - keep your rejected car O2 sensor (or get one from a junk yard) ... as long as the heater circuit is not shot the thing will be fine. Note: do NOT use a "wideband" sensor as it's output is different and cheap gauges will not interpret the output correctly.  Wiring: There are TWO circuits in the O2 sensor: a heater and the circuit for output voltage. The heater circuit just needs to be wired to +12v and ground when the key is on. The sensor output just needs to be wired to the gauge input and ground. So, really only 3 wires: +12v (ignition); sensor-to-gauge; common ground for the heater and sensor output. The gauge similarly needs to be powered by +12v and ground, and have it's sensor input wire hooked up to the O2 sensor output voltage wire. Simple. Here is a short video of it showing air/fuel mixture as the throttle is opened and closed. It shows I have a VERRRY lean idle setup, and a slightly rich main jet setup: View My Video (who knows why TinyPic flipped the video upside down. The file below does not have this problem) View My Video |
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 23, 2015 20:49:38 GMT -5
Walmart.com sells Gates belts but they dont list sizes at all on there website making it impossible to get the correct one if you dont already know the Gates models. Walmart.com does list the Gates model numbers. My scoot is a longcase 139qmb 50cc. The gates Power-link belt from eBay size is 729-17.5 30 What is the model number for a genuine Gates recreational belt from walmart.com that fits the above mentioned engine? First - good on ya for looking to Walmart for your belt. There are TONS of counterfeits out there - good looking ones, with the proper "Powerlink" lettering, etc. Most do NOT come with a cardboard sleeve - one thing we found to be a tip off to not really gates. Even from good dealers, and paying high prices, you have a reasonable chance of NOT getting a real Gates belt. Walmart, most of us believe, has good enough purchasing controls they are most likely the best bet to get a real gates belt. Plus, their prices are lowest (and you can do free store pickup; no ship charge). Here is ths gates site for their scooter belts (there are several pages). You will need to go thru and look at the specs to get the right size, etc. Suggest you stick with Kevlar - especially from Walmart, as their Kevlar price is not much higher than the standard belt. www.gatespowerpro.com/Comergent/en/US/adirect/gates;jsessionid=E597BC6C72AD819792E2A60A18067A91?cmd=catNavigate2&punchInID=612188Your belt is: length (outside circumference): 729mm, or 28.7 in width: 17.5mm, or 0.69 in Angle: 30 degrees |
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 16, 2015 15:23:24 GMT -5
OK, so finally after broken engine mounts and rain delays SuperEngine is through it's break-in period and I can provide some feedback for those interested and thinking about a SuperEngine. 1. You will be disappointed here because everyone (including me) evaluates "performance" by top speed, and this engine in this Retro scooter is powerful enough that I'm not very comfortable running the thing at a those kind of speeds. Maybe soon I will, but until now I haven't. Sorry. (Riding this scooter at 80mph was never my goal anyway, so ...) 2. If you don't want to bother reading further: my scooter, with SuperEngine, is damned near P E R F E C T.3. Some feedback on the changes other than the engine: - Gears: The scoot has a much lower final gear set. The OEM gearing was 13/40, or about the highest gearing you can get at 3.1. Now it has 16/36 - very low ratio of about 2.25. SuperEngine has plenty of torque to pull with this low ratio, and no doubt 16/36 or so is better for highest top speed ~~~ but i don't care about that since the scooter's suspension simply isn't safe much above 60 or 65. If I had it to do again I'd probably go up a notch to 16/37 (about a 2.3 ratio) just to move the power curve down a bit .... but it's too close to ideal already and will not bother.
- Clutch: Thanks to GEH the scoot has a full NCY clutch (bell, pulley, pad assembly, 1,500 Contra spring) instead of the OEM setup before. To be honest, I do not see much of a change. The OEM setup had long pads like the NCY; don't know what Contra was in it. And the NCY clutch is a VERY expensive mod. I'd suggest people NOT spend the money unless they really do feel slippage (I didn't).
- Tires: Figured out how to install slightly wider Michelin City Grip tires using a 6mm spacer between the final drive bearing and the wheel, moving the wheel slightly to the right and creating a bit more clearance between the tire and the variator-side of the engine casting. These tires are MUCH better; hopefully will give more mileage too. No noticeable downside to using the spacer.
- Variator: Again, thanks to GEH the scoot is now using a K&S variator instead of the Dr. Pulley one I had in there (which costs twice the price of the K&S). Sorry, but have not yet had time to mess around with weights and tune the variator (using 12gr Dr. P sliders) ... but the K&S, untuned, seems at least as good as the twice-as-expensive Dr. Pulley. Will have more info here when I get to tuning.
4. Performance As I said, this scooter is almost perfect now. It cruises at 70 to 75 ChinaMPH at half throttle or so. That doesn't mean top speed would be a ton higher - it might be I'm using close to the full carburetor at half throttle - don't know how much more remains. But WAY off WOT this thing just floats along, at 6Krpm or so, effortlessly. Oil temp has not once been higher than 175 deg. Where I was before, with the 60mm BBK engine, at WOT to hit 60 or 65, this thing now just flies. I LOVE it. Going up moderate to steep hills the scoot continues to accelerate to 60 or 65 ChinaMPH. Before, on the same hills, it would slow to under 50. It's wonderful! Off the line takeoff is fast but not a rocket sled at first. There seems to be a 1 second or so period of good pickup, after which the scooter suddenly just starts pulling and does not stop until at a scary fast (for this thing) speed. The prior engine, with the ultra-high ratio gears, didn't have this "pause" in takeoff and at times would pop the front wheel up (not safe on this thing). Not happening with the gears I not have and with SuperEngine. However, after 5 seconds or so SuperEngine would have passed (flown by) and would leave the prior engine in the dust. I was always (prior engine) able to keep up with cars off a red light (unless they were racing me) ~~~ now they are far behind. Again ... perfect. So, overall .... for what I'm looking for ... this thing is close to heaven. It's gone from something that, before, would be screaming to keep up with traffic to a scooter that just effortlessly flows, at moderate throttle and plenty of power to spare. Hills are no longer noticed. Of course, it's still a Retro scooter and is crappy at high speeds (especially with the barn door windshield) and for long distances. I use my Goldwing for that. But the Goldwing is a at 900+ pounds, and it' getting almost zero use now a days. SuperEngine wasn't cheap, but my oh my is it great! |
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 16, 2015 14:30:01 GMT -5
Thanks for the lengthy and thorough response. I hope you understand at this point I'm not much interested in the refund, but in alerting others to what I think was a problem --- as I would hope they would do for me.
A short response. For years you sold this part and thought it was accurately described in your "Applications" section .... very few returns. You saw no need to caution buyers to measure carefully, advising the part only fits SOME of the engines you listed, because there had not been a problem. So - you were not being negligent or deceptive; you simply were not aware the product only fit SOME of the engines listed in "Applications". Odd you (as a company, not individual) having now learned the Applications section was not correct would not be apologetic and make sure your customer was not hurt by the innocent error.
I relied on your Applications section and bought a part that I believed was correct since my BMS Heritage is covered by the Applications note. When it arrived it didn't fit and requested a refund. Since then (until your Comment here, in which you agreed to some fault in the matter) I was blamed for ordering the 'wrong' part. I took issue with that - especially when the refund amount shifted all culpability to me - and THAT is why I decided to advise others. NOTE: please don't go back and change the refund amount now; that is not at all the issue.
Your business is, of course, yours to run as you see fit. If the tables were reversed i would have been pretty much 100% apologetic to my customer, even if I felt he/she was partly to blame (as you clearly do), but I'm not the owner of PFS and my opinion is irrelevant.
But thanks for responding.
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 15, 2015 20:03:51 GMT -5
Yeah, Jerry, there was a dimension listed under "Specs" (14"), but no lines of where that was measured and no indication at all, of any kind, that some scooters require a different part (and they have no other engine hanger available). I actually measured my old hanger, as best I could, while it was in the scooter ... and 14" was in the ballpark. Unfortunately, the dimension was critical -- the distance between frame attachment points - and the 1/2 inch difference made the item totally unusable. if only they had indicated "some scoots are different; measure carefully from 'point "A" to point "B" ..." .... as is done often with other parts, the whole problem could have been avoided. As it was, if they had simply reimbursed ONE of the 2 shipping charges I might have been dissatisfied, but not angry. Seems to me not a good business decision given the "Application" info they gave specifically said it's correct for the engine in my scoot.
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 15, 2015 14:11:08 GMT -5
I guess this is where your sales person got her idea that I was wrong to order off your website, relying on the "Applications" info there, and instead have no right to gripe if I didn't call in and order by phone (since that's what you said here). The response i would have expected(and did expect) was, "Oh, sorry - I can see where our Application data was not very good. So sorry for the inconvenience; please send it back and we will refund all the money you paid (including shipping, since it's our error) and add a notation that customers MUST take measurements because our part only fits some of the engines listed." I would have been impressed if you had also paid for return shipping ... for the same reasons.
Instead, the error was blamed on me ("Customer ordered the wrong part") and neither outbound nor inbound shipping was reimbursed. That would be fine if the error was mine (e.g., I had a different engine than what was listed and didn't realize I was ordering the wrong part. Heck - in THAT case it would even be fine if you assessed a restocking charge.
This isn't about the money - it's not (for me, at least) enough to argue about. Rather, it's about a company standing behind what they sell - including the descriptions of what the product is for, which seems reasonable for a customer to rely on. Apparently not.
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 15, 2015 10:55:05 GMT -5
They are OFF my list of suppliers after the crappy way they dealt with a part they LISTED INCORRECTLY. Blamed me for ordering off the web instead of over the phone, refused to pay for shipping either way.
There are other suppliers. PFS will not be one I use again.
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 15, 2015 10:32:16 GMT -5
PartsForScooters is a supplier who advertises here - large range of parts. I advise CAUTION, as they do not stand behind what they sell. Many may remember I broke the engine hanger on my scoot a month ago. PartsForScooters had what appeared to be the correct replacement - their advertisement said the application for their part was "Gy6 scooters". So I ordered it. They ship out of Florida, so it took a week to arrive.  WRONG PART! The difference was slight - 1/2" longer between the bushings that attach to the frame. But, of course, there isn't a way to make it work. No big deal - send it back for a refund. Well - kind of a big deal since the scoot was 'off-road' a week waiting for their incorrect part. But mistakes happen. Emailed for an RMA # and was a bit insulted when they put in, for the "reason for return" --- "Customer ordered wrong part". NO, guys - SELLER LISTED PART WRONG. It even irritated me enough that I called just to voice irritation. The agent I spoke with was 'nice', saying, "Oh, we put that on all out returns", but did not seem interested in correcting the incorrect product description on their website. She even tried to blame me for ordering off the website instead of over the phone. OK, so I had to pay for return ship costs even though this was a seller error. But I made sure I included a note saying i wanted a FULL refund, SELLER ERROR, --- INCLUDING SHIPPING COST. Got a 'Refund Approved" email a few days ago. They will NOT be reimbursing me for the return shipping cost, and will NOT be refunding the original shipping cost .... only the actual product cost.  BTW - that was a week ago. Still no actual refund on my account. CAUTION WITH THESE PEOPLE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 12, 2015 9:42:34 GMT -5
Yeah, trying to figure that out. As you know, George, I had 9gr sliders in the Dr. Pepper variator with the 60mm BBK. But that was with 13/40 gearing, which is a 3.0 ratio, and that with little 10 inch wheels. So now I've got SuperEngine, 16/36 gearing (about a 2.25 ratio) and your K&S variator. Before putting the K&S on - with the Dr. Pepper and before the gear change - I started out with 12 gr sliders but they were too light. So, when I changed gears (still with the Dr. P) I put in 14 gr rollers. They were too heavy -- a lag at takeoff and RPMs never, ever above 6K So this past weekend I put the new clutch in and the K&S, with a new set of Dr. P 12gr sliders. Way better than the last stop - maybe perfect for me - but also maybe not optimized. RPMs get up to 7K but normally are in the 6,500 range. I dunno. Really - I dunno much about variator tuning and do not know if I should keep messing with it. Your thoughts? Are you able to break the 7000 rpm range on a straight shot or is 7000 max ? I never tried sliders in the k&s . if 7000 is max on a straight run , I would hold there since your not looking for a speed demon . hat is your mph at 7000 rpm an a straight run ? Did you mark belt climb ? I'd like to know the different from the Dr p and the k&s. 7K is about the tops it gets to. Have not yet marked for belt climb, and have not yet tried for highest MPH (afraid, to tell the truth). Finally finished the break in period and will write up what I'm getting in a day or so. But at 7K RPM I can be anywhere from 30mph up to who knows how high. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 10, 2015 0:20:13 GMT -5
U may end up having to use the 15 gram rollers . let us know how it turns out!! The k&s ran my rpms up unless I used heavier weights . Yeah, trying to figure that out. As you know, George, I had 9gr sliders in the Dr. Pepper variator with the 60mm BBK. But that was with 13/40 gearing, which is a 3.0 ratio, and that with little 10 inch wheels. So now I've got SuperEngine, 16/36 gearing (about a 2.25 ratio) and your K&S variator. Before putting the K&S on - with the Dr. Pepper and before the gear change - I started out with 12 gr sliders but they were too light. So, when I changed gears (still with the Dr. P) I put in 14 gr rollers. They were too heavy -- a lag at takeoff and RPMs never, ever above 6K So this past weekend I put the new clutch in and the K&S, with a new set of Dr. P 12gr sliders. Way better than the last stop - maybe perfect for me - but also maybe not optimized. RPMs get up to 7K but normally are in the 6,500 range. I dunno. Really - I dunno much about variator tuning and do not know if I should keep messing with it. Your thoughts? |
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 8, 2015 18:47:29 GMT -5
So, so so pissed off.
So it's clear this ski-jump bump is going to get someone killed. Have to do something.
Several suggested calling the Dept. of Roads ~~~ but this is California .... 1/8 inch east of the USSR. A report to the gov't, if it resulted in anything at all, would not do so until at least the year 2025. The only solution was to paint the road as a warning. Anyway, maybe that would embarrass the local gov't into doing somehting about it.
So Wednesday I went to HomoDopo and got a can of neon marking spray paint. But what about the logistics??
Rocky is right - if caught it's probably a fine or lifetime prison sentence. Also - it's a busy main road .... and have to do so when there is at least some time to dry before cars run over. So, I decided to get up at the crack of dawn Sunday (today) and do the covert assault then.
Up at 5:30 today; out of the house at 5:45 with paint can in hand. The plan - park, leave the car running, do the evil deed and scamper off.
Drove the several miles to the ski jump ...
AND THE BASTURD ROAD CREWS HAD ALREADY BEEN THERE !!! NOTHING BUT NICE NEW PAVEMENT. AND I GOT UP AT 5:30 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
All I can figure is some Union boss, or may an illegal alien, got injured by the ski jump. What else could have motivated the gov't to act so quickly ?
And I repeat --- GOT UP AT 5:30 !!!!!!!!!
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includes shipping
