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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 11:28:07 GMT -5
Check this out. Do you see what's out of place?  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 11:11:21 GMT -5
I got a pretty good video on my youtube channel for clocking GY6 rings. Got a link? |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 11:07:43 GMT -5
I am using the new solonoid going to try the old when I get home today and see if just a bad solonoid I have power to break light and turn signal That's the first thing I would try as well.... You can jump the solenoid by laying a screw driver across to 2 terminals....If it cranks over, i't's definitely the solenoid. I know you must have been disappointed last night... It's not even my scoot and I feel bad about it... Nothing like getting a new toy and it doesn't work right, at least work right, right away...  But the good news is this is the kind of problem can be fairly easy diagnosed... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 3:28:39 GMT -5
You doubted me? Is 40v at 3000 rpms OK for the stator output? 26 at idle I would have to dig through my saved info to find the actual numbers, but if memory serves, yes, that's fine... Did you test the stator unplugged from the R/R? You will get false readings if the R/R is plugged in. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 2:56:54 GMT -5
Welcome!
Sounds like you got a fun project ahead of yourself.
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 2:43:35 GMT -5
I'm reading 18.7 volts at 3000 Rpms at the battery , with the black wire hooked up I'm reading 16.4 volts at 3000 RPMS. TOO HIGH. I'm checking the headlights now. I'm reading 7.5 volts at headlights , 3.3 volts with black wire hooked up . Ok, well, now that you produced the numbers I figured out what's going on... You need to have the black wire hooked back up then figure out where you have yoru REAL problem at... The Black sense wire is doing it's job and without it, your over charging. *edit, even with the black wire hooked up, 16.4 volts is too high also.. Follow the math....: With the black wire hooked up: 16.4 at the battery, subtract 3.3 at the lights, gives you 13.1 Volts.... Which is your proper voltage... You have a voltage drop somewhere in your system to your headlights. Black wire not hooked up: 18.7 volts at the battery, subtract 7.5 at the lights your at 11.2Volts... This is a difference of 1.9volts that the black wire tries to fix. reason I say your over-volting is because the voltage at your battery will kill it... That's too high. What you need to do is hook the black wire back up and figure out where your voltage drop is... I suspect a damaged or loose wire in your lighting circuit. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 2:34:36 GMT -5
From what I been researching , the black is a 12v monitoring wire You doubted me? |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 1:34:42 GMT -5
This should allow you to trace your starting circuit.... BTW, Did you remember to ground your motor to the frame?  yes I put the ground wire back onto the valve cover bolt it was on on the old motor Something else to take a look at... Sometimes when you plug two connectors together, a PIN will get pushed out of it's socket. This has happened to me with CDI's more times than I can count... They're very prone to being pushed out of the connector but you can't see it unless you really inspect the plug or tug on the wires slightly and see if they come out... If you have knocked a pin lose, pull it all the way out of the plug, using something small like a paper clip end, bend the locking tab of the pin back out and re-insert into the connector and push until you here a little "click".... I have a very strong hunch it's one of these kind of issues because if you turn the key and get "nothing", not even a click, then there's either a short somewhere or something hooked up wrong. Are you using your old solenoid or the new one? Have you checked your brake switches? |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 1:04:56 GMT -5
Yes I can read a wiring diagram. They usually make my head want to explode so the simpler the better  The Pinout of our plug is different, but everything else is the same and this is from the manufacturer However, the specs say it's a 3 phase R/R, this is NOT a 3 phase R/R...   |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 0:51:48 GMT -5
brb
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 0:41:08 GMT -5
Could the black wire on my RR be another ground Well its not another ground . I tried to ground it but nothing happened. No, it's not a ground. It's a voltage sense wire, however I'm not 100% certain of it's function. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 0:27:41 GMT -5
Yes I can read a wiring diagram. They usually make my head want to explode so the simpler the better This should allow you to trace your starting circuit.... BTW, Did you remember to ground your motor to the frame? |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 0:22:45 GMT -5
Dmartin , when I start the scoot , the lights are bright , then they begin to fade and stay that way " really dim" when I hit the throttle they stay dim , but if I turn the ignition like I'm shutting the scoot down , the lights get very bright. I don't turn the scoot off but almost . Do your lights get their power from AC or DC? |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 0:20:41 GMT -5
Could the black wire on my RR be another ground ? I don't think so. Every wiring diagram with a 5 wire R/R has the black going to the black in the ignition switch. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 0:16:38 GMT -5
yes I have access to a multi meter, Scooter is a 2013 Jonway YY150T-12. Ok, one of my scooters, a TaoTao quantum tour is actually model XY150-T.. I'm pretty sure it's the same as your wiring harness. In addition, I have a scooter up on my hoist the same style as yours, and the CL scooter I picked up the other day has the harness like yours. Suffice to say, I'm more than familiar with harness... Do you know how to read a wiring diagram? |
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