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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 27, 2015 13:57:59 GMT -5
Ok, well that settles that... I just talked to the guys at parts for scooters.. I was inquiring about what master-link, rivets and chain breaking tools I would need and they advised me against purchasing one. They said it weakens the strength of the chain and that I would actually be taking a step backwards in my build.... So, it looks like splitting the case open for me....
On the plus side of that, you'll be able to see a video of what's inside your new engine.....
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 27, 2015 11:53:31 GMT -5
Yeah, I'd like to find one for a 150cc... I have to figure out what size the individual links are to buy masterlinks if I go that route...
Oh, and BTW, anything welding for me is out of the question... I don't know how to weld... Sad thing is, I have a nice welder that has hardly ever been used... It was my dads... His health took a turn for the worst and he cant use his tools any more and gave them to me... So now I have this nice welder that I do not know how to use...
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 27, 2015 11:12:23 GMT -5
itistheride.boards.net/thread/2748Here is a post that Alley made about this but this one doesn't split the chain don't know if it will work, still trying to find the video of the one I saw. I found a few videos... Search youtube using Key-phrase "how to add a masterlink to a chain" and "How to break a chain" PFS has all the tools I need for doing the Job right HEREAfter watching the videos, I'm fairly confidant I can do it... But the cost of the Chain tools I could buy 4 or 5 complete gasket set... The other side of the coin I have the tool for future jobs and avoid having to split the crankcase.... Decisions, decision......  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 27, 2015 8:13:42 GMT -5
Ok, so I'm in the middle of a build and I made a major over sight. The Build I'm currently doing is a BBK with a 4 valve head. I thought it was going to be seamless but I hit a major snag because of a dumb oversight on my part...
I recently acquired a Taiwan 4 valve head... All the writing on packaging is in Asian so I couldn't read the specs... Now, Taida has sent me a total 3, 4 valve heads and they all came with the needed accessories such as cam, studs and chain....
Well, this new Taiwan 4 valver that I acquired didn't come with a chain... Like a Dummy, I just assumed I could use my stock chain because it didn't come with one... Afterall, all my Taida kits did have a chain. So, I get the top end tore off, go to reassmble then realize my mistake. This 4 valve head does in fact require a longer chain.. I need to have a 94 (some places call it 47 link) link chain.
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So, here's what I need help deciding....
I already have a 94 link chain that I was going to use on another build, but If I use it, I still have to buy a gasket set and split the crankcase...Might as well stroke it at that point...
My other option is to buy a chain breaker and install additional links... I avoid having to split the crankcase but have to shell out the cash for one... In addition, I don't know how to use a chain breaker and add links to an existing chain... What if I break the chain and can't get it reassembled...!?!
They both have their pro's and con's... What route would you take?
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 27, 2015 2:39:12 GMT -5
So the new carb was dirty ? Yes... I purchase motors from this seller also... Mine are in the same condition that KeiKara describes. Check it out, here's the add on Ebay: Short Case, Long CaseDo you see anything about new motor with used carburetor? The more I sit and think about it, the more ticked I"m getting... I have other carbs I'll be using with these engine so chances are, they wouldv'e been shelved till someone needed a cheap carb... I would have wound up selling someone a bad carb.... Not cool... Not cool at all. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 27, 2015 1:24:03 GMT -5
Here, you can thank RCQ for this tip, he clued me in tonight.... I found the belt for your scooter. This is Genuine Gates, Kevlar belt. It's only $20.06 and you can either have it shipped to your house or pick it up, free of charge. Here's the link for Walmart... This is a great price for a guaranteed, Gates Belt. I don't think that is 669-18-30 Look... Check out this add from Amazon... Read the part number then read the belt dimensions.... The size listed on Walmart I think is the shipping dimensions... I'm not 100% positive, but it's the exact same part number... No, not all Gates belts are Kevlar... The non-Kevlar edition of your belt would be Gates PL 20507 ... The Kevlar is Gates PL 30507 Actually, This post reminds me I need to through Rcq a bone... He's just cued me in on all this earlier. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 27, 2015 0:25:20 GMT -5
I am looking for a new belt, Here, you can thank RCQ for this tip, he clued me in tonight.... I found the belt for your scooter. This is Genuine Gates, Kevlar belt. It's only $20.06 and you can either have it shipped to your house or pick it up, free of charge. Here's the link for Walmart... This is a great price for a guaranteed, Gates Belt. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 27, 2015 0:16:31 GMT -5
On a totally un-related note... I suck at typing and need to proof read more... I'm constantly having to edit, not because of misspelling and typos, but because I skip, typing words... I think way faster than I type and leave words out of my sentences all the time... Very frustrating.
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 27, 2015 0:13:38 GMT -5
I'm one of those people who have installed many car audio systems , work installing HVAC , but really never learned the basics of Ac/DC current . in probably should , lol Knowing basic electrical engineering knowledge is helpful for Car audio and HVAC installations as well... If you get a 1000 watt AMP, you have to know the output of the Alternator.... You ever see a car that when the base hits their lights dim? It's because they didn't do their math.... In addition to being able to support that power, you have to have instant power, so you need a capacitor bank for the quick pounding of the bass line.... HVAC too... Residential and industrial hardly mix as one is 240v the other at 480.... then, some old house only have a service 60 Amps at 240v, gotta be careful your new HVAC doesn't have monster fans and other energy hogs... I believe TVNACMAN does HVAC as a career.. He probably has to do electrical math everyday.... You should hit google one day... Learning just the basic math goes along ways!  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 26, 2015 23:57:00 GMT -5
I don't see how that would kill the stator, since it's used to going full bore. It's because if he tried pulling that many watts, he would exceed the R/R's ability to shunt away the heat. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 26, 2015 23:52:39 GMT -5
I'm quite busy tonight so If I don't get back to ya, bare with me..... Volts are only one part of electrical capacitance value. You also have to take into account Amps... Amps, x Volts = watts... Now, watts can be directly translated into heat. To keep it simple, just think of it like this, more watts equals more heat..... Excessive heat is the number 1 killer of R/R's and Stators... If you examine the diagram I produced in the other thread with the R/R's specs, this R/R is spec'd to 10 AMPs MAX for the A/C input... That is not an RMS value... It also list the DC charge output MAX value at 5500 RPM's/6 AMP's/14.6 volts...That is 87.6 watts you have available at MAX charge... Now you're correct in assuming the R/R will automatically adjust now that you have the black wire hooked up, but it can not adjust beyond it's rated specs.. Is what would happen, is you would wind up running it at max capacity and that thing would be very hot to the touch even, then eventually fail to the heat.... Just do the math....you have 87.6 watts available... Them two lights you're talking about is a whopping 120 watts... And that's not talking about your tail, indicator and instrument lights. As to Rcq's setup? Who know's... Like you've seen, you can hook it up and get light, but you're going to be wreaking havoc on you're electrical... He may have an 8 or 11 pole stator with a full wave R/R... Full wave theoretically doubles your electrical output. *edit, now I know why... He only has one... His scoot would have no problems supporting one of these lights. This might sound dumb but , the rr's max dc output is 14.6 volts . with the battery hooked up and with its 12-13 volts , I would expect the regulator would slowly have to keep stepping up the volts to account for the drain on the battery. Or would it all of a sudden be at max output when the lights come on ? The reason i ask this is because The longest I ride one way is about 12-15 min. During the day " no lights " night I would run the lights . I guess my main question is , would the regulator send max voltage to the battery right off the bat or will it slowly raise the current to the battery as lights begin to drain it ? Would I have enough battery power to run the lihts for 15 mins and possibly not draw to much from the regulator ? Or am I just wrong ? My best bet is to just run one light at a time or install the 11 pole stator I have . I would have to buy a new regulator for the 11 pole . It doesn't sound dumb... You just don't know, so do what you're doing and ask... That's a sign of smarts, not dummy-ness  ... Dummies just do stuff without asking. The R/R acts in accordance with the load... You flick on lights, R/R instantly detects and tries to compensate. Now, you're battery would act as a buffer and if it was fully charged... Could be 15min, could be 2min, however, when you shut your scoot off you would have to charge it... In addition, even though your battery would be buffing the load, your stator and R/R would try to compensate for the load and run hot....The longer you ride, the more your lights would dim until battery needs to be re-charged... So, you could get away with it for short burst if you recharged at night, but you're still working the heck out of your electrical system and in my opinion, is a bad idea altogether... And something else to consider... I don't even know if your head lamp bezel could support that much heat... Even with the fancy vent holes the deer helped you make... You might melt the thing... Bottom line is this... You're talking to someone who knows this stuff pretty well and would never attempt what you're doing... It's a bad idea in my opinion... Get yourself 2, 35 watt HID or Halogen light and you'll be golden. That's more than enough light for night time driving ...... Even if you install the 11 pole, I would still advise against installing two of those H4's... Listen to Rcq, 1, is more than fine.... Them H4's are BRIGHT!!! |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 26, 2015 23:39:32 GMT -5
I see you guys have all those fancy light up switches... Can you use a light up switch for the kill switch? Like have it only illuminate when the key is turned to on and have it work like normal where it can kill the engine and also prevent starting? Yes. A kill switch is just that, a switch... I think it's a spst (single pole, single through), N/O (normally open) switch ... The light in the switch is completely independant of the switch. It's operation is determined by how it's hooked up... Directly to 12v it's on all the time... Put it keyed on, it comes on with the key. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 26, 2015 22:22:03 GMT -5
Ok, I opened up every carb I got from TMS.... They all are gunked up... ...
I just shot off a message to TMS also.... I purchased through Ebay so I have buyer protection... I thought maybe they were re manufactured, but these are just f'n junk.....
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 26, 2015 22:02:24 GMT -5
Yes, I use that bulb BUT!!!!!!!!!!! I only have ONE headlight, and only use ONE H4 bulb. From what DMartin said, I'm guessing you have TWO headlights and are planning on using TWO H4 bulbs at the same time ... is that right? One H4 - no problem. Two ..... I dunno! Yes, that is his plan and his setup would in no way support that much of a power draw... One H4 he would be able to run no prob,.... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 26, 2015 21:58:49 GMT -5
You're free to do as you wish, but I can tell for 100% fact that if you try running two of those of those lights, you're going to burn up either your R/R or Stator itself. The R/R itself is only 10 AMMP max current R/R... That's 140 wats, assuming you can pull off 14 volts... However, I'm not sure if the 6 pole stator can even produce that many watts and if it does, it's running at absolute max capacity and will eventually fry. Also, if anyone reads this thread and see's Geh is bypassing the AC circuit for the lights and going to power them from DC... You can only do this IF you have the black wire being discussed in this thread.... Your saying if I run the h4 bulbs DC I'll still burn the stator or regulator up ? Or if I try to run them AC ? Rcq is running the same bulbs but AC . I'm at the understanding if I run these lights DC , the regulator with the black wire hooked up should not burn up . is this correct ? You would think the regulator would have a limit with the black wire hooked up . I know it monitors how much to send to charge the battery but you think it would have a limit so it doesn't burn up . the. Battery was showing 18+ volts at 3000 rpms without the black wire hooked up . so it had to be much higher at 7500 rpms , maybe close to 20-24 volts ? At what point will the regulator burn up ? If hooked up DC wouldn't the lights just start to drain the battery if they are too much , and not burn the regulator up ? THat is with the black wire connected. Will it be able to keep the battery fully charged when the lights are on ? That I'll have to find out . I'm quite busy tonight so If I don't get back to ya, bare with me..... Volts are only one part of electrical capacitance value. You also have to take into account Amps... Amps, x Volts = watts... Now, watts can be directly translated into heat. To keep it simple, just think of it like this, more watts equals more heat..... Excessive heat is the number 1 killer of R/R's and Stators... If you examine the diagram I produced in the other thread with the R/R's specs, this R/R is spec'd to 10 AMPs MAX for the A/C input... That is not an RMS value... It also list the DC charge output MAX value at 5500 RPM's/6 AMP's/14.6 volts...That is 87.6 watts you have available at MAX charge... Now you're correct in assuming the R/R will automatically adjust now that you have the black wire hooked up, but it can not adjust beyond it's rated specs.. Is what would happen, is you would wind up running it at max capacity and that thing would be very hot to the touch even, then eventually fail to the heat.... Just do the math....you have 87.6 watts available... Them two lights you're talking about is a whopping 120 watts... And that's not talking about your tail, indicator and instrument lights. As to Rcq's setup? Who know's... Like you've seen, you can hook it up and get light, but you're going to be wreaking havoc on you're electrical... He may have an 8 or 11 pole stator with a full wave R/R... Full wave theoretically doubles your electrical output. *edit, now I know why... He only has one... His scoot would have no problems supporting one of these lights. |
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