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Post by scooter on Nov 4, 2014 20:27:00 GMT -5
wow, you completely lost me there. let me draw you a diagram to easily explain it  What is the outer diameter of a 4.00-12 tire? This is a 2 part tire number, not three. Also, what determines the width of the rim the tire will fit on? How do I determine if a tire will fit on the rim width I have? |
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Post by scooter on Nov 4, 2014 3:57:54 GMT -5
"Scooter" did some pressure measurements on his vacuum (OEM) pump and found the psi to be from 1.5psi to 4psi. So, anything in that range is fine since it simply duplicates what the OEM vacuum pump provides. His reading was of fuel vacuum pressure, not the pressure of the fuel pump outlet.... I guess I didn't realize they would be the same...However, the vacuum pump's psi drops off as engine RPM increases, while the electric pump is constant at all engine speeds (a plus). I did both vacuum and fuel pressure. Vacuum to operate the pump is measured in inches of mercury. Fuel pressure output is listed in psig. As RPM goes up, vacuum drops.
vac hg rpm
11.0 @ 4,500 1.5 @ 7,500
As RPM goes up, fuel pressure rises.
fuel psig rpm
1.5 @ 1,500 4.0 @ 7,000 Pump performance dropped off at 8,000 RPM. Vacuum drops as RPMs increase because the open throttle plate is letting in more air. Pressure rises as RPMs increase because the pump is receiving more pulses per minute. |
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Post by scooter on Nov 4, 2014 1:33:10 GMT -5
ok here you go,  It says on one page I'm looking at that if there is no aspect ratio given then it might be assumed to be 82. so a 4.0-12 would be 102/82-12. That would make the tire 12 inches in diameter plus .82*102mm=83.64mm then *2 = 167mm plus 12 inches so that's 6.6"+12"=18.6 inches, right? That's simple enough.  So my old rear tire is 120/70-12=0.7*120mm=84mm*2=168mm=6.6"+12"= 18.6 inches in diameter, and my new rear tire will be 120/80-12 = .8*120mm=96mm*2=192mm=7.56"+12"= 19.6 inches in diameter, I think, and my old front tire is 18.6 inches. Now the rear rim is an MT3.5*J12 and the front rim is an MT2.75*J12. so, I don't know what that means as far as what tire would go on the front. Can I use the same 120/80-12 or does it have to be sized like the other one at, I don't know, 19.6-12=7.6"/2=3.8"/.82=4.6? Do I need a 4.6-12 front tire? This is way too complicated. |
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Post by scooter on Nov 3, 2014 23:58:52 GMT -5
I just recently changed both tires on my scoot . I went with a taller tire , from 130-60-13 to 130-70-13 . There is no way I'd be able to go any taller because the rear wheel is now about a half inch or so away from the rear of the engine block . And I also had to modify the front fender by raising it slightly so the tire would not rub . Overall I love the bigger tire look and it should give me a slight top end increase . I'll know when I get my speedo cable on and go on a few runs . Also I was able to remove and install the new tires myself , just used a little grease to help slide to tire on and off the rim . That's excellent! I was hoping a taller tire would make my Chinometer more accurate but I just realized the front tire is the one that runs the speedo. I ordered the 80 instead of the 70 sidewall. I hope I don't end up over geared, but at least I have variator shims for that situation. If all goes well I might order a new front tire too. Is it safe to put grease on your mating surfaces? |
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Post by scooter on Nov 3, 2014 23:45:13 GMT -5
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Post by scooter on Nov 3, 2014 23:40:52 GMT -5
Utility it undoubtably has, but it looks like someone took a George Forman grill and stuck wheels on it.  You can cook a whole chicken on it with HALF the fat and calories! Good health is no laughing matter!  |
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Post by scooter on Nov 3, 2014 23:38:19 GMT -5
Designed by Hero (formerly known as Honda Hero) with some Eric Buel touches. It will provide job site electricity along with power to light a small village and will pull a number of farm implements doubling for a small tractor. Aimed at rural folks with a limited budget that can't afford a tractor, generator and scooter separately but might be able to go for the all-in-one approach. It also has an on board water purification system, is self driving, and has a pop out drone that flies ahead to look for pirates and potholes, both highly dangerous to scooter drivers. Just kidding, but is that the most useful scooter ever conceived or what?  |
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Post by scooter on Nov 3, 2014 23:24:52 GMT -5
I have been eyeballing one of these case boring tools. Although I have not found instructions for using one, it looks rather simple. I believe the idea is to set or bolt down the tool onto the case using the holes in the tool,  then adjust that tool insert, in the center, to your bore diameter,  and then use a slow drill to bore out the case.  It looks super easy and probably only takes a few minutes. It's a little pricey at $150 but, if you are handy with a bench grinder, you could probably make that tool bit last forever, but they have new bits for under $20. The drill powered case boring tool. Have you tried one? Do you want to? Well, do ya?  |
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Post by scooter on Nov 3, 2014 17:58:55 GMT -5
Thanks. It's a tubeless rim.
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Post by scooter on Nov 3, 2014 17:19:28 GMT -5
I had a  's model Chevy S-10 with the 4.3L EFI and that was the most awesome truck ever. It was fast and could haul a good deal of weight for it's diminutive size. For 20 years that thing ran with almost no maintenance. I had it for ten of those years and only replaced the A/C compressor, the Alternator and a few hoses and things, and it had well over 100K miles on it when I bought it. |
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Post by scooter on Nov 3, 2014 16:44:02 GMT -5
That last one might be of use...thanks! I never really thought we could put the taida stuff on our engines. But I guys as long as it's 54mm spacing it all should fit. Edit: The reason I want to avoid boring my case is down time. I don't have a car so it sucks to have to get a ride for a week wile I'm waiting on the boring to be done. Wile if I had an already bored out case as part of a kit, I can just reassemble it almost as fast as I tore it apart. Probably looking at 10 minutes of down time using one of these.  www.ebay.com/itm/NCY-CASE-BORING-TOOL-FOR-SCOOTERS-ATVS-AND-KARTS-WITH-125cc-150cc-GY6-MOTORS-/181536361986 But at 160 dollars the case might be cheaper. Not that everything is about the money. |
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Post by scooter on Nov 3, 2014 16:36:38 GMT -5
******!!! YOU LIE!!!  |
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Post by scooter on Nov 3, 2014 16:31:21 GMT -5
I have two small bottles of it but have not put it in yet. That's the tricky part. Some people have gone cuckoo trying to get them down the valve stem & ended up spraying them all over their garage. I've seen people in videos using an air hose (very carefully) or a straw to blow them in. Others hold an engraving tool against the valve stem to vibrate them in. The reviews I've seen of their performance in reducing existing vibrations & wobble have been almost universally enthusiastic. I'm planning on using Dynabeads when I mount new tires. Good deal. My local Harley shop says the DynaBeads are good. |
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Post by scooter on Nov 3, 2014 1:54:32 GMT -5
That is going to be such a nice ride. You can get on it when you have gone to the garage and then you still need to get away.  |
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Post by scooter on Nov 2, 2014 23:12:00 GMT -5
howdy, i'm as ignorant as the next guy but it is my understanding just from experience that the 4.00-12 would be a tube type tire. if your wheel needs a tube because it is not a tubeless rim, even the tubeless tire will have a tube in it. just saying--- lotsa miles and smiles to ya ken Okay I looked at the tire again and it says "load range B tubeless" so I guess it's tubeless. |
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's model Chevy S-10 with the 4.3L EFI and that was the most awesome truck ever. It was fast and could haul a good deal of weight for it's diminutive size. For 20 years that thing ran with almost no maintenance. I had it for ten of those years and only replaced the A/C compressor, the Alternator and a few hoses and things, and it had well over 100K miles on it when I bought it.
