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Post by scooter on Nov 7, 2014 0:47:02 GMT -5
Twice now, it has just suddenly cut off. It starts instantly and runs very quietly and smoothly and has some pep. When it dies, I have waited a couple of minutes & restarted without any problem. It ran smoothly on the way home each time. How is it going, Surfpick? Have you found the source of your woes? (BTW if I'm stepping on anyone's toes, I don't mean to. I usually answer from the "recent posts" page and have not seen other people's answers yet.) |
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Post by scooter on Nov 6, 2014 5:43:45 GMT -5
Yes, wrestling in general can be a little creepy.  Congratulations on solving the puzzle, Bandito! |
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Post by scooter on Nov 5, 2014 22:57:23 GMT -5
3/16 , I use 1/4 and hose clamps . John I've been searching for info on vacuum hose sizes. I remembered reading this response & am glad that I found it again. I don't have a GY6, I have a 250cc (244cc actual, I think?) Do you know if the 1/4 & clamps will also work for my engine? I don't know. I just eyeballed it and got lucky. I never did find out what size it was. If you have some calipers or another way to measure things, you might measure the OD of your nipple and give that info to the parts dealer. Perhaps you could bring them a sample or cut a little off the end of one of your lines to show the parts dealer. |
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Post by scooter on Nov 5, 2014 22:42:55 GMT -5
Fill it up with air get something to put water in enough to cover the rim and tire at the bottom and find out where it is leaking by turning the tire around and see if you can see bubbles. It could just be the STEM. They are not the best and with age and heat will leak. If its the tire just get a new tire and put it on the rim yourself it is not to hard to do. Alleyoop Do our scooters use a car type valve stem? I am picking up my new tire tomorrow and I need to get a stem. The guy at the tire place said he didn't have one like mine, I think he meant the  degree bend, and the people at the auto parts store were clueless. Thanks. |
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Post by scooter on Nov 5, 2014 22:06:41 GMT -5
If i do, it will be a wile before I can. I can say with pretty good confidence that my cutting out problem and running lean are 2 different issues. Thank you. I'd really like to know how the bigger carb affects vacuum and fuel pressure, plus you have that long intake as well. |
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Post by scooter on Nov 5, 2014 22:03:38 GMT -5
My cvt drive gets really warm. I can't even touch the clutch or variator after a short drive. If I didn't drive in the rain, I'd chop holes and vents in my cover. i also have this problem too. i think the best way to deal with it is to use a ram air intake of some kind into the transmission case. or you could change the final drive gearbox ratio to lower the transmission rpm. and get an oil cooler too. its harder to make a hot engine run colder than it is to make a cold engine run hotter, unless you live at the north pole, there is always a benefit from adding an oil cooler. That's a good idea. I think it can't be good for the belt and rollers to run that hot. |
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Post by scooter on Nov 5, 2014 18:12:46 GMT -5
I am new to the scooter world and currently in the same situation as I acquired an e charm 150 that has a dead ecu. I hate to invest the $600 and find out something else is also wrong, and or fry a non-returnable $600 part. Is there any parts list and step by step available for this conversion? if not could there be? I don't know what an Echarm is, sounds like virtual jewelry, but $600 is outrageous. I think the equivalent of an ECU for a cheap Chinese scooter is more like $20. |
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Post by scooter on Nov 5, 2014 17:01:36 GMT -5
...So there is nothing but smooth surface through my fuel delivery to the valves. I also worked the header mount and header pipe to smooth down anything that may inhibit flow. Add the extra velocity my tunnel ram creates and a fat cam and it makes perfect sense why I'm running lean with a 30mm carb. If you have or get a vacuum gauge, It would be great if you would publish your vacuum readings at the fuel pump, for reference, at various RPM, preferably at idle, 2,000, 3000, etc on up to 8,000 RPM, and also publish your fuel pressure at the pump outlet at those same RPMs, all with the bike on the center stand. I would really like to compare your readings to my stock carb. |
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Post by scooter on Nov 5, 2014 16:51:55 GMT -5
I don't know much about scooters but that sounds a little like a fuel pump failure, possibly due to a vacuum leak. I'd clean the carb and the fuel pump and replace all the vacuum and fuel lines unless you can pinpoint the problem first. Lines are fairly cheap and having new ones is nice. Of course make sure your spark plug boot is on tight and that all of your connectors are tight.
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Post by scooter on Nov 5, 2014 7:13:41 GMT -5
Ok definitely a problem now, every time I go to full throttle it dies completely, if I go to full throttle for a second it starts to die but if I let go quickly it's ok again, it's like it cuts the fuel spark or air completely when I go full... Any ideas? I replaced the petcock. It's been happening every so often but has now suddenly started it on every twist If you have not already done so, I suggest you replace all of your vacuum lines or look for leaks in the lines. |
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Post by scooter on Nov 5, 2014 7:04:07 GMT -5
That looks like a super deal! The muffler alone is probably worth over a hundred, plus you get a head, cylinder, carb, rings, pistons, gaskets, variator rollers, rocker arms, whatever that round white thing is, and more! Nice find! |
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Post by scooter on Nov 5, 2014 6:58:15 GMT -5
These pumps we have on our scoots operate on pulses. Every time your intake sucks in air, the pump's diaphragm is pulled and afterwards released, thousands of times per minute. As you saw in my gauge testing results, a smaller 3 inches of vacuum at 7,000 RPM produces much more fuel pressure than a much larger 11 inches of vacuum at only 4,500 RPM. More small pulses is better than fewer big pulses. I wonder why these scooters are cutting out at WOT....!?! If it's getting the best fuel pressure at higher RPMs, then what do you think is the cause of these scooters cutting out at WOT? I really want to get to the root cause of why all these scooters "cut out at WOT"... It seem to be the case that these particular scoots (turtle shells as shannen calls 'em  ) with the tank in the bottom have this particular issue.... Xyshannen, Katastroff, Me, rcq and the list just goes on.... But, like Alleyoop said, thousands of these scoots with the same design operate just fine.... Perhaps it's the case that some of the fuel pumps had a bad batch of diaphragms or something odd like that.... As to the root cause of the scoots cutting out at WOT, your post has confused me more than helped.... Sorry for the confusion. The RPM and vacuum are two separate issues. The faster the RPM, the more the fuel pressure rises. BUT At WOT, more air is being allowed into the intake, reducing the vacuum. If that vacuum drops too low, the diaphragm won't be actuated properly. This is why using a bigger carb can be a problem. It increases the amount of air that can get into the intake, thus reducing vacuum at WOT more than a smaller carb would. Also, any vacuum leaks are going to have a similar effect on the pump. This whole thing is a system, and a system needs balance. Too much or too little of any component in the system will cause imbalance and this failure. And, even if the system is in balance, at some point, the pump will be outside of it's working range. That might be at 10,000 pulses per minute, or 15,000, or 200,000. What we DO know is that on these GY6 engines, with no vacuum leaks, and with a stock carb, you can run at WOT and the system works. By using an electric pump, you can just bypass that system of vacuum output and consumption via the intake, and replace it with a new system based on electrical current output and consumption via the stator. |
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Post by scooter on Nov 5, 2014 6:36:07 GMT -5
Thank you, ccr. That's the information I needed. Can you tell me what website this information is on? |
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Post by scooter on Nov 5, 2014 6:33:21 GMT -5
Do these things work for the crankcase and the cylinder? No. It is made to bore a very short hole. |
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Post by scooter on Nov 5, 2014 6:28:39 GMT -5
The "Bore" in "Big Bore Kit" means the cylinder bore is larger. That is not the same "bore" as boring out the case to accept the larger cylinder.
As it was explained to me at one shop I visited, they would add spacers, or shims if you prefer, between the case and cylinder to make room for the longer stroker crank. We're talking 8mm here. A little over 1/4 of an inch. Closer to 5/16" really. (.315") That's all I know about it.
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degree bend, and the people at the auto parts store were clueless.
