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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 14, 2016 13:11:24 GMT -5
the way i start my ride:
check the oil/coolant.
make sure the brake levers don't bottom out.
i start the bike.
then i put on my gear, usually just gloves and helmet, but sometimes an added scarf if it's really cold.
do the walk around my bike checking for loose/missing bolts/panels.
no WOT for the first 15 minutes.
i usually don't ride in temps less than about 35-40 F., mainly because of slick conditions.
plus, on long rides my fingers get too cold.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 13, 2016 13:09:12 GMT -5
dollar, why wouldn't I start it hotter to get it warmed up and flowing sooner, then turn it down once it's flowing almost how I want it to? "Almost" because I know the heat won't cool immediately, so if I dim it a bit soon then it should be just right once the dimmer-down kicks in. you could start at the highest setting, but if you use a higher wattage bulb than recommended then you run the risk of cracking the glass. the reason i said to use a higher wattage bulb was to ensure the lamp would get hot enough. but after your edit, i suspect the reason your light isn't working properly is because of a bad location. you could try putting the lamp in an upturned fish aquarium, or placing iytr in an "inside" corner. "inside" corner as in a corner that doesn't have an outside wall, and keeping it away from windows. keep in mind that your light works by a balance of heat transfer. if this balance is upset, then the light will not work properly. instead of the dimmer/ higher wattage bulb, i recommend trying to find a better location. you run the risk of cracking the glass with a higher wattage bulb. who knows, maybe this light might not work anywhere else except in your bedroom behind closed doors. that large window is probably sucking a lot of heat from your light. try placing it in an upturned aquarium. with enough patience, you will find the ideal location for your light. just remember your light works by a careful balance of heat load, and anything that upsets that balance will affect your light. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 12, 2016 19:52:53 GMT -5
my forte is the 244, but to my uneducated eye this appears to be the water pump.
i could be 100% wrong about that though.
my engine didn't leak oil either, but there was always oil on the bottom of the engine.
the stator wires always seemed to be oily.
my guess is you are getting blowby from the engine vent, maybe even a tiny amount from the stator wire seal.
unless you are adding oil between changes, i wouldn't worry about it.
like i said though, i don't know much about the 257.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 12, 2016 14:41:47 GMT -5
If I remove the cvt cover will I get any surprises like spring part falling off ect. Looking for a oil leak put some cardboard under your ride when you park it. also, is it actually leaking oil? wiping the engine clean, then inspecting the next day will give you a good indication where the oil is coming from. wiping my engine was pretty simple because i didn't have all that garbage under the seat. you raised my seat and all you seen was engine. as a matter of fact, that's all you had to do to work on my ride was raise the seat. i removed everything else. i didn't realize the storage compartment rim was the support for the seat, so i added my own support in the form of 2 lengths of swing set chain. i even got it to where i didn't need to bolt the seat down, i didn't raise the seat, i removed it. ah the joys of owning your own stuff, where warranties mean nothing. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 12, 2016 14:21:23 GMT -5
And replies-- dollar, this helps some. So I would get a dimmer and a hotter bulb, then basically nuke that lava to get it started then turn down the heat? I do know that too cool and the lava just sits there, too hot and it either goes too vigorously or just makes a big ol' mound swelling up from the bottom. It's like Goldilocks and wants it just right. Which I've obviously failed to find for it yet. And flow-update pending.... >'Kat no, you are going about it backwards. start out on the lowest dimmer setting, and wait a couple of hours to see what happens. if you don't get an effect, then crank up the dimmer to the next notch and wait a couple more hours. ambient temps will have some, maybe a lot, of effect on how your light works. in winter, your light might not work at all because of the cooler temp of the room. putting your light in the sun will also have an effect, possibly a large one. placement of your light will have an effect, putting it by an outside door. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 12, 2016 0:41:08 GMT -5
it's the heat of the bulb that makes the lava light work.
i would go with the dimmer idea, plus get a higher wattage bulb, say 120W or maybe slightly higher.
putting a silvered reflector around the bulb might work too
also remember there is a lag time between adjusting the dimmer and getting the effect.
start the dimmer on the lowest setting and adjust up, waiting approximately 2 hours between each setting.
also remember that there will be differences depending on air temp and if there is a breeze.
there is a narrow range of heat that your light will work.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 10, 2016 11:17:03 GMT -5
i wasn't very clear in my last post, and i'm going to edit it. by thermoswitch i mean the temp sensor on the engine, not the fan sensors on the radiators. also, the specs i mentioned were for a genuine honda product, and may or may not be the same as yours. they came from hondas "common service manual" part no. 61CM00C. a 393 page publication. the setup i had never gave me any charging/battery/overheating problems. OTOH, i had a "bare bones" system, head/tail lights, turn signals, fans (2) CDI, coil, and tach. i agree with JR about the PDI, these chinese scoots use questionable methods in regards to electrical concerns. anyway, try to find the part number above, it was on the net at one time, a great manual. some of it will not apply to chinese scoots, the wiring diagrams for example, but  % of it will. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 9, 2016 1:13:42 GMT -5
pretty good job, except . . .
how are you going to deal with water getting into the battery box?
my box has barely enough room for the battery, much less an added 3 prong plug.
like i said though, pretty clever.
maybe you can add a recess to hold the plug and its receptacle (i assume there is a matching receptacle on the scoot.)
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 8, 2016 23:08:28 GMT -5
about your cooling system concerns:
from the honda service manual
thermostat starts to open between 157 and 162 F, should open between 3.5-4.5 mm.
cap should hold a pressure of 10.7-14.9 PSI
use 50-50 antifreeze mix, protects to -30F
radiator boilover, 226F with no cap, 258F with a cap.
testing gauge/thermoswitch: (sensor on the engine, not the radiator)
turn key to run position.
remove thermoswitch wire from thermoswitch and jumper it to ground.
**CAUTION** IMMEDIATELY remove ground if gauge swings to full hot.
if gauge needle moves then replace thermoswitch.
if gauge needle doesn't move then remove ground and check voltage from sensor wire and ground
if you get voltage then gauge is bad.
if you don't get voltage then reground thermoswitch wire and check voltage between both wires on gauge.
no voltage indicates a broken connection. (possibly a harness connection or some other wiring harness problem)
voltage indicates bad gauge.
from my personal experience:
i removed the thermostat and sat the fans to run continuously.
i also found a 6" computer fan (12V brushless) sold by radioshack to be a good replacement for the fans used on my bike.
my cooling system gave me fits when i first got my ride, i couldn't ride it for more than about 3 miles before the red light came on.
the primary causes were lack of coolant quantity, my system didn't have a large enough cooling capacity.
an improperly vented CVT case.
i got it fixed though, after i said a few choice words.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 8, 2016 18:47:02 GMT -5
I've read, if it's true, that these can get around 75 MPG. hmmm . . . i suspect that would be with a lean main jet. mine got on the low side of the 50-60MPG (between 50 and 55) actually the heavier rollers gives better high end performance because they shift the torque curve to the high end. the opposite is true with lighter weights, they give better low end performance. you can't increase the hp of your engine by adjusting the roller weights. i would check the wiring connector, make sure the wires are making the connection. with a half gallon of coolant, you shouldn't have any overheating issues. mine didn't have a gauge, it just had the light. also, try to get a genuine honda intake manifold. the vacuum fuel valve will probably need replacing too, and i suggest a manual valve (but an electric one will work). the drawback with a manual valve is forgetting to shut off the fuel when parking your ride. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 8, 2016 18:19:39 GMT -5
yes, that's the 244. with some relatively minor engine mods, you can easily get 80/  MPH out of this scoot. even an all stock scoot should top out at around 70 or so. oh man, i'm droolin'. mine is sitting out back with a blown engine (not exactly sure what happened to it) it made a really strange sound at the time it died, almost like the starter engaged, and it hasn't started since. i've been thinking about getting another engine for it from scrappy. that's a nice lookin' ride man. stay safe, and wear your gear. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 8, 2016 0:19:46 GMT -5
what did ya get?
244 or 257?
the first thing i would do is get an iridium plug for it.
i bought one for mine in 2007 and put 10,000 miles on it.
the scoot has died since then, but i bet that plug is still good.
20 gram rollers seemed to give me a little extra horsepower at top end, it seemed to have better throttle response above 50 MPH.
i got between 50-55 MPG with those rollers.
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Roar 250 39c
by: dollartwentyfive - Jan 5, 2016 21:11:55 GMT -5
Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 5, 2016 21:11:55 GMT -5
When you say final drive do you mean back by the rear wheel? Guess I am using car talk. So use what the yp250 manual says?there is only 3100 miles on it,trying to Chang out every fluid in it to make sure it is right. Next will be coolant thanks again for your help miken Use good grade gear oil, any name brand. I use the 75W/90W oil myself and I own two scooters with this engine and never have had any issues. JR same here, i've always used 80W-85W-  premium high performance gear oil from NAPA in my final drive. the honda service manual calls for that thin motor oil type stuff. i can only assume it's for the reasons i listed in one of my earlier posts, the small oil galleries and small bearing to case clearances. also be advised that my final drive failed at around 10,000 miles. it's the first of 2 major engine problems i had with this scoot. the second engine failure was with the engine itself, and put my ride in the back yard. one more thing for the OP: the phrase final drive can be somewhat confusing because of the parts used. there are 3 basic parts to the final drive. the input shaft, the one the clutch attaches to. the final drive shaft, the one the wheel attaches to. the countershaft, the one that connects the other 2. the word transmission usually applies to the entire CVT area, variator, clutch, and final drive. we call it a CVT, but either CVT or transmission will do. the phrase "twist and go" is sometimes used to describe our type of scooters. oh yeah, one other thing: when you say the right side or the left side, which side of your scoot are you referring to? the "side" is referenced with you sitting on the bike. the "left side" is the left side when sitting on the bike, even when you are standing in front of it looking at the bike. |
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Roar 250 39c
by: dollartwentyfive - Jan 5, 2016 14:46:05 GMT -5
Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 5, 2016 14:46:05 GMT -5
When you say final drive do you mean back by the rear wheel? Guess I am using car talk. So use what the yp250 manual says?there is only 3100 miles on it,trying to Chang out every fluid in it to make sure it is right. Next will be coolant thanks again for your help miken yes, the final drive is by the rear wheel. it usually contains the clutch axle, a countershaft and the wheel axle. if you are going to service your bike yourself, then get a yamaha issued service/ repair manual for a 257cc engine. there will be some very minor differences between your engine and the yamaha engine, but all the important specs will be the same. i have the chinese version of the 244cc, and the honda issued service manual works great. again yes, the final drive is by the rear wheel, and on my ride, the CVT cover had to be removed to change the gear oil (final drive fluid). use the center stand when changing the fluid. i also recommend getting the best fluid you can get. these engines require very little at each change, so don't skimp on the quality of your fluids. |
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Roar 250 39c
by: dollartwentyfive - Jan 5, 2016 10:30:25 GMT -5
Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 5, 2016 10:30:25 GMT -5
Plate says 15w 40 engine oil/ gear oil yp 250 manual says 10w40 but don't know what is correct. the oiling system used in the final drive is splash. this means the various parts get their oil from other rotating parts slinging oil all over the place. the oil passages in these drives are small, and the clearance between the bearing and the case is even smaller. this requires a relatively thin oil, especially in cool to cold weather. heat from the engine will eventually thin the oil. i guess the weight you mentioned could be correct because gear oil is used mainly in "open faced" applications, gear boxes and differentials. these components do not have the small clearances of scooter final drives, and they use a relatively large amount of oil. yamaha has probably made a great service manual for the 257cc used in your scoot, i would follow their recommendations. |
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% of it will.
MPH out of this scoot.
premium high performance gear oil from NAPA in my final drive.