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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 29, 2016 16:42:45 GMT -5
i would remove the clutch, you might need to get a couple of screwdrivers under it to pry it off).
then see if the final drives howls.
item number 3, what they call washers, needs to go back EXACTLY like they came off. so pay attention to this.
you will also need a blind hole bearing puller, to pull the countershaft bearings.
out of curiosity, what kind of final drive oil was you using?
your final drive is modeled after the yamaha 257.
find a service manual from yamaha for this engine, it should be of great value to you.
BTW, all the bearing numbers are listed except for the countershaft bearings.
start a dialog with scrappydog, they should be able to help you.
a yamaha service garage MIGHT help. my local honda shop refused to help me with my final drive.
keep us posted.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 28, 2016 21:24:00 GMT -5
no, not all bearings in the final drive are sealed.
there was only one sealed bearing in my drive and it was the outside wheel axle bearing.
you can replace the clutch as an entire assembly to eliminate it.
the final drive on these bikes are relatively simple, 3 sets of gears, 3 sets of bearings, a shim or 2, and the gasket.
the only real area you need to pay attention is where, and what order the shims come off.
i recommend using a piece of cardboard to locate the bolts as you remove them from the cover, makes it a lot simpler to get them back to where they belong.
spacing is important, so don't try to use anything other that the gasket made for your bike, IOW don't make your own.
the gears themselves are pretty well idiot proof, you can't get them in backwards or in the wrong order.
buy 3 cans of WD-40 with the red tube nozzles and thoroughly flush the final drive before reassembly.
it's really a simple job once you get into it, it certainly isn't like a manual tranny.
but first, are you sure it's the final drive?
like you said, it could be the clutch.
maybe a piece of metal came loose behind the variator.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 28, 2016 5:41:56 GMT -5
seeing as these engines seldom use any type of lock washer, it seems this would be a common problem.
most of my "loose screws" were due to poor body panel design.
there were only 3 instances where "important bolts, screws, and nuts" came loose or came up missing altogether.
one was a muffler bolt, i even lost the rubber shim on that one.
one was the engine to swingarm screw, bolt simply disappeared.
the 3rd was the rear wheel nut, it came loose, but i never lost it.
i had the socket to fit it but not the breakerbar, (i was away from home).
i used a pair of pliers to get it tight enough to get me home.
the chinese must have some kind of aversion to lock washers.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 25, 2016 15:45:21 GMT -5
i think there is merit in all 3.
the little 50cc, small, quiet, efficient.
250cc, sacrifices some agility but makes up for it by the ability to run with 60MPH traffic.
the hogs, provides a more comfortable ride but adds the "expense" of shifting gears.
i love my CVT 250 but i also miss my 50cc, i could easily make a U turn in a parking space with it.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 24, 2016 17:57:48 GMT -5
the orange coil should work unless the packaging for the coil specifically states to use a specific CDI.
keep the old coil in your onboard stuff as a backup.
the only thing i would be concerned about is the length of the boot.
if the boot is too long then the wire can't contact the plug.
you are going to like this ride you got.
you can now ride on state roads without blocking traffic.
you'll also find yourself further and further from home.
i finally got mine to where i could feel comfortable 70-100 miles from home.
it wasn't unusual for me to put 70-100 miles a day on it.
just something about 2 wheels that attracts me i guess.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 24, 2016 15:55:04 GMT -5
i never replaced any of my copper washers, and they are used in a number of places on my ride.
the final drive fill hole, the external oil line, and the master cylinders.
i lost one that went on the external oil line and made a replacement made of a piece of index card.
it didn't leak.
i've removed the brake lines from the master cylinders and didn't do anything to the washers before putting them back on and they didn't leak.
also, i believe one of my cylinders (left) couldn't be rotated up or down because the mount was welded to the handle bar.
the mirror mounts were also welded to the bars.
the mirrors were adjusted by moving the mirrors themselves, not the mount.
i'll agree that these mirrors leave a lot to be desired, mine were practically useless, and i got in the habit of glancing back (turning my head to look).
the coil should be fine, the OEM coil that shipped with my ride never gave me any problems with the iridium plug.
pricey little snots aren't they, but it cured my rough idle and rough running.
you shouldn't have any problems with that plug for at least 10,000 miles.
one other thing i would like to mention, and that's in regards to valve adjustment.
follow hondas method in an official honda service manual.
i tried the "engine running" method and it ruined my exhaust adjuster.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 21, 2016 19:30:20 GMT -5
don't give up just yet.
start a dialog with scrappydog, they are one of the top suppliers for scooters in the US.
it's highly likely that scrappy can get the parts you need.
scrappydog is a busy place, so give them a few days to respond to your emails.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 20, 2016 9:19:09 GMT -5
scrappydog and parts for scooters are the only 2 dealers i've dealt with, and both have provided excellent service.
speaking of parts for scooters, what happened to their banner ad?
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 19, 2016 17:42:49 GMT -5
i think engines bigger than 250cc should come with "regulation" type wheels.
IOW, the scoot should look like a manual shift bike.
there's just something about small wheels that makes me nervous at high speeds.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 19, 2016 13:36:41 GMT -5
i feel like kat does.
why should this engine be called a 400 when it's actually a 352?
it isn't standard practice in engine technology.
automobile engines are called what they are, and there are numerous examples of it.
351, 289, 454, 327, and these are off the top of my head.
i feel like they should be totally honest in stating engine sizes.
partial sizes, 49.5cc for example, should be called a 49cc engine.
OTOH, i realize a lot of this has to do with marketing concepts.
also, they did state the actual engine size in the specs.
regardless of the above, i would like to get my hands on this 350.
it would probably be the biggest engine i would ever have.
my 250 (244) is pretty much all i need, and an extra 100cc would probably be perfect.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 16, 2016 2:51:27 GMT -5
i never owned a manual clutch type of bike, and i seriously doubt if i will.
i can't think of many, but i'm sure there are a few advantages of an automatic tranny.
the most immediate one is in regards to uphill rides at very slow speeds,
another is having both brakes at your fingertips.
yet another is the uncomplicated ride of an automatic tranny.
another advantage is the really simple design, very easy to work on.
i still admire the hogs though.
i will never forget the string of what must have been a thousand of them passing through town.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 15, 2016 10:59:33 GMT -5
check out some of the links from the following search results: www.google.com/search?q=lava+lamp,+series+6000,+blue,+yellow,+grande&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=sb&gbv=1&sei=lhWZVuXQK8bcmwGS1qrIDQ one of the above results specifies a 100W projection bulb. also, the results do not appears to be linking properly. i entered the following into google: lava lamp, series 6000, yellow, blue, grande. (all at the same time) i suggest entering the above search terms and go through the results, check out the sites that offer similar lamps to yours, especially in regards to size and type of "fluid". read the use and care instructions for these lamps you will no doubt find things you didn't know. for example, i almost recommended that you shake your lamp to "get it started". one of the search results said shaking your lamp will ruin it. keep on it kat. show that lamp you are more stubborn than it is. it will comply or die! |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 15, 2016 10:40:00 GMT -5
spandi,
correct, the 257 is a yamaha product.
the engine pictured in post 3 is not the 257 though, it's the 244.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 14, 2016 23:44:43 GMT -5
the only advice i can offer is that lava lamps work on on the principle of heat transfer.
this transfer causes one of the "fluids" in the lamp to heat and expand faster than the other, which causes it to rise.
i never owned a lava lamp, so i can't be of much help other than throwing out some random ideas that might work.
one other thing is, you said you purchased this lamp used, so you can't assume the wattage of the current bulb is correct.
is there a model/ serial number on this lamp?
a manufacturer?
a label that has any kind of useful info?
please post.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 14, 2016 21:49:56 GMT -5
why would i recommend a yamaha product for the engine pictured in reply 3?
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