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Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 10, 2016 23:16:57 GMT -5
some bikes have the one way diode, some don't.there are a few things that can cause this:
1. defective diode.
2. defective regulator.
3. defective ignition switch.
4. defective battery.
in all but one of the above cases there will be some king of ground involved, the only exception is the bad battery.
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Solenoid
by: dollartwentyfive - Feb 8, 2016 23:22:03 GMT -5
JR likes this
Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 8, 2016 23:22:03 GMT -5
no, solenoids do not go bad from sitting for a couple of weeks.
my guess is you have a slow drain on the battery, the battery itself is bad, or you aren't letting the battery charge enough between starts.
corrosion on the wires can also cause these symptoms.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 4, 2016 3:29:39 GMT -5
the mechanical aspects of scooters are simple.
especially the traditional step through design.
i haven't seen any chilton type of service manuals for scooters except for the 244cc and the 257cc
even these manuals aren't specifically written for the chinese scoot.
i'm afraid i cannot answer your question of "are they difficult to work on", because i consider myself as fairly adept at mechanical stuff, i know my way around an engine block, and know the difference between a camshaft and a driveshaft.
BTW, that's a nice looking bike, i only wished it came in the 350cc range.
i suggest you post some of your questions in the 150cc forum, i'm sure there are people there that can help you.
if you think the warranty will help you, then you need to open a dialog with the company about it.
what exactly is covered, and what exactly must be done to get it fixed.
chinese warranty service is nowhere near american standards, they certainly WILL NOT provide you with a loaner scoot while yours is being repaired, and will most certainly be you that's doing the service
also, you won't go to napa (or some other parts house) and get parts for your bike.
sure, some parts can be gotten like that, spark plugs, bulbs, fuses, tires (maybe), batteries, but most of your replacement parts will be purchased online unless you deal directly with a brick and mortar dealer.
this is why i said you must be prepared to do it yourself.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 3, 2016 19:39:53 GMT -5
chinese scooters aren't for the timid.
you MUST be prepared to get your hands dirty, and know what you are doing.
some chinese rides give you no problems at all, you can ride the wheels off the thing and just do the regular "car type" of maintenance (change the oil, keep an eye on tire pressure, brake fluid, that sort of thing).
then there are the ones that leave you screaming in agony, wondering why you ever bought it, or wishing you never did.
but don't despair, the second type can be whipped into shape with enough coaxing from you.
i've had one of both types, so i pretty well know what to be prepared for when getting a used scoot.
i had no problems with licensing my 250 in the state of indiana, although the clerk had to ask someone else what to do.
this could have been the result of the chinese brand, or she never registered a motorcycle before.
if you are willing and able to work on your ride, then by all means get it.
there are knowledgeable people here for all types and sizes of chinese rides.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 3, 2016 16:17:18 GMT -5
i would replace both the CDI and the coil.
by your description, it sounds as if the coil has a shorted turn, and possibly the CDI is also bad.
i have no answer for how you could have ever gotten to work with it, but that's what i would do.
you will no doubt continue to have little electrical problems like this until you do a thorough and proper PDI.
i'm also anxious to get that part number on the bearing you got from napa, this info can be of great value to other owners.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 1, 2016 18:17:13 GMT -5
UPDATE: BTW, the part # for the bearing I needed doesn't match ANY of the diagrams I have got...my diagram says 6025c3, but the # on the bearing is 6205/p53. Strange huh? I thought all of these 257cc Yamaha clones would be the same....maybe not. Anyway thanks for all the advise, I am less intimidated now, knowing I didn't have to call China for parts! what was the part number on the bearing that you purchased from napa? other readers facing a similar situation can benefit from knowing. changing part numbers during a production run is not uncommon. the clutch shaft we were discussing was changed 3 times, and each had it's own part number. brake fluid leaks or spills should be dealt with immediately. brake fluid is corrosive to the plastic panels on our scoots, and probably a lot of other things too. i have no idea, but this part of the brake system isn't under pressure. keep that in mind when looking for a fix. also, i would look for cylinders that didn't have these "glasses" i had a similar problem with my airbox, it would fit on the bike but NONE of the mounting holes would line up with anything. the only thing that "fit" was the piece that went on the carb, the rest had to be zip tied. it ran and sounded a lot better with the airbox though. i wouldn't necessarily call it fun, but it DID give me the opportunity to come up with unique fixes to the problems i encountered. the radiators on my bike were a joke. i went to twist off one of the hoses, and the radiator body buckled. this radiator had to be nothing more that a few sheets of copper foil. the worst part was they wanted something like 100 bucks for a replacement. there was absolutely NO WAY i was going to pay that. the solution? went with an inline filler cap and scrounged up a car heater core. took me about a week to get all the bugs out of that fix, but it worked, and perfectly too. you might moan and groan about it now, but you'll miss your baby when she's gone. there isn't hardly a day goes by that i don't wish i was out there on my chinese 250. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 31, 2016 22:22:39 GMT -5
[/p] What I DISLIKE about it...
1. Difficult to access the engine. The seat pan and seat are one unit which must be removed to get to the engine. Once removed, it is still difficult to change the spark-plug. To test-ride engine work, you have to do it without the seat... Unhandy.
[/quote] i had the same problem with my ride when i first got it. i got so fed up with it that i removed it altogether. this had the added bonus of not having to lock the seat, so i removed that too. the downside was that the seat pan provided support for the seat. my frame was made in such a way that i was able to use 2 lengths of swing set chain strung along the upper sides of the seat opening to provide the missing support. after i got done with that mod, all i had to do was swing the seat up to access the engine. i even eventually got rid of the front pivot, and was able to just lift the seat completely off the bike. this is part of the "i did it my way" bit. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 31, 2016 14:43:51 GMT -5
keep in mind that this isn't a for sure thing. the clutch shaft may be the same and the other parts totally different. but, if they are the same then the honda part numbers will be valid. here are the tooth counts for the gears for a check: clutch shaft 14 counter shaft large gear 37, small 14 wheel axle 35 BTW, these parts are for the honda elite, production years  -  . edited to add: about item 3, the shims. your parts list only mention 2 of them, one on each end of the countershaft. some drives, mine was one of them, has 3, two on one end and one on the other. also keep in mind that these shims might be "stuck" to the drive housing. pay particular attention to this area of the drive, because these shims has to go back like they came off. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 31, 2016 8:28:18 GMT -5
what i like about my ride:
1. great MPG.
2. super cheap insurance.
3. knowing "i did it my way", meaning i don't have to rely on other peoples help or any specific part. ( kinda hard to explain).
4. ease of service, simple design.
5. the sheer thrill of WOT.
what i dislike:
1. cagers.
2. road hazards.
3. cold weather.
4. lack of carrying capacity.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 30, 2016 17:09:38 GMT -5
man, i don't believe this.
i was checking out some part numbers for ya, and i found out the clutch shaft used in your ride is the same one used in the cfmoto v3/v5.
the cfmoto v3/v5 uses the 244cc, the same engine i have.
it's simply unbelievable the final drive would be the same, but i got some numbers for ya.
bearing 6304 crosses to honda # 91001-gf6-004
bearing 62/22 crosses to honda # 91005-ks4-003
countershaft bearings crosses to ta1416z.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 30, 2016 16:31:00 GMT -5
since you seem to have good mechanical aptitude, this shouldn't be much of a problem for you.
since the final drive housing is aluminum, i just hope the bearing mounts aren't reamed out.
if you find that to be the problem, then look around for a blown 257 and salvage the CVT case.
speaking of aluminum, take it easy with the scrapers and sand paper (and the torque)
there are only 3 sets of bearings in the final drive, 2 for the clutch shaft, 2 for the countershaft, and 2 for the wheel axle.
on my bike, all of these are open race except the wheel side of the wheel axle.
the countershaft bearings were needle, the other 4 were ball.
these drives are vented, so make sure you don't pinch the vent hose on reassembly.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 30, 2016 15:49:05 GMT -5
my engine only had the screen, and i never replaced the o-ring because it never leaked.
i always used regular car engine oil in my engine.
i probably could have gone longer between changes, but it was a habit i got into, and the cost wasn't prohibitive.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 30, 2016 13:32:32 GMT -5
when i first heard about the notorious valve stems i decided to check mine (a long time ago i might add).
the rubber was all dry rotted and i bent the stem over to give it a thorough checking out.
i was amazed the stem stayed in the wheel.
i removed both wheels, tire and all, and drove them down to the local tire shop to get those stems replaced.
about the engine oil, i used straight dino oil (valvoline 10W40), changed once a month.
my engine took slightly less than a quart per change, so the cost was minimal.
the final drive oil can go longer between changes because it doesn't collect combustion byproducts
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 30, 2016 1:08:28 GMT -5
another area of safety that gets overlooked is wind.
i'm not talking about a light breeze.
imagine yourself traveling north with a fairly decent wind from the south.
if you should make a curve to the right or left, a gust of wind would be all that is needed to push you right into oncoming traffic.
the next question of course is, how much wind are we talking about here?
i have no answers for that except to say it's probably a lot more than a light breeze.
a good way to get a grip on this would be to ride behind a semi on a bike.
this in itself raises safety issues, but the idea is to get a feel for what is being said about wind.
even a car will be buffeted by the backwash from a semi..
there is another danger from semis, disintegrating tires.
not road trash, but the flying kind.
be careful people, and enjoy the ride.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 30, 2016 0:54:35 GMT -5
windy days can be a problem for any bike.
as a matter of fact i'm going to make a post about it in my safety thread.
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