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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 13, 2016 15:51:35 GMT -5
Its compression that expands the rings and seats them to the cylinder wall while vacuum releases them to allow oil film on the cylinder wall for the next compression and combustion stroke. WOT from a dead stop should be avoided during break in as would gunning an unloaded engine. A new cylinder should not be pushed past 2/3 of its top speed during initial break in. A 15 minute warm up is too way too long at a constant speed for new cylinder and can cause harmonic buzzes and rattles that will stay with the bike for the life of the rebuild and can lead to prematurely wearing out. sounds reasonable to me. however, i don't think there is a "standard" break-in procedure. most car makers frown on flat out acceleration, just like running close to max RPM. i believe that there is some kind of "breakover" point in breakin. a point where you get the absolute maximum HP from your engine, and i'm not talking about RPMs. so, there is an advantage for a proper breakin. no, you won't destroy your engine if you don't break it in, but you CAN get just that tiny bit extra HP if you do it right. BTW, a "premium" built engine will probably not need a break in these aren't the days of "ye old bridgeports". no offense to bridgeport, i cut my teeth on them. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 13, 2016 7:10:34 GMT -5
the entire reason for break in is to provide a means for the various parts of the engine to perfectly mate with one another.
this mainly applies to the piston and crank, but it also applies to other parts of the engine.
i'm not sure whether a stand can provide a proper break in environment, but i do know that the rings need the vacuum of a closed throttle to seat properly..
the best procedure, in my opinion, is, run scoot for about 15 minutes at idle (for warm up), then a WOT acceleration to almost max RPM, followed by a completely closed throttle deceleration to about 30 MPH, then repeat without the 15 minute warm up.
the MPH figure depends on engine size, the figure i gave was for my 250.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 11, 2016 21:52:26 GMT -5
50ccs are nice to own, cheap on gas and agile.
i can't really recommend them though because of their 30mph speed limit.
they are great for side and surface streets, but downtown urbana almost requires a 150 and up.
yes, the electrical system would be the first place i would start.
in fact, i got so tired of farting with mine that i ripped it out and replaced everything.
after that, i didn't have any problems with my scoot (well the cooling system gave me fits, but i eventually cured that too with a car heater core and some well placed holes in the CVT cover.)
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 11, 2016 18:39:05 GMT -5
i remember my first scooter well.
a little ol' chinese 50cc.
well built, all i had to do was put gas and oil in it and i was good to go.
then i got the itch for something a little bigger.
enter my chinese 244cc.
this scooter was an entirely different animal than my 50.
the 50 was a pure joy to own, the 250, well let's say i spent a good deal of time getting it fixed.
the number one culprit of my problems was electrical, but it had others as well.
i eventually got them all under control and i wound up with a very decent ride.
i certainly won't hesitate to get another at the price i gave for mine.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 2, 2016 0:49:48 GMT -5
yes, PFS is a great place to get scooter parts from.
no, i'm not in "cahoots" with them because scrappydog is another great place to get parts.
some would say "why mention scrappydog"?
simple, the competition between these 2 giants gives you, the buyer, the best at the best price.
i've dealt with both of them and both offer excellent service.
i have no need to shop anywhere else.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 1, 2016 19:18:32 GMT -5
hey grubby, welcome to the board.
keep your face in the wind, and the greasy side down.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Nov 26, 2016 10:44:40 GMT -5
a word of caution when doing engine tests on the centerstand.
as the rear wheel turns, there will be some RPMs that will make the back of the scoot "hop up and down".
if this is severe enough, it will pick the scoot up off the cenerstand and the spring will fold the stand back up under the scoot.
the effects of this will not be good and could cause a great deal of damage.
so, keep your foot on the centerstand kickdown peg at all times while doing engine RPM tests.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Nov 21, 2016 2:22:39 GMT -5
It's only back country roads around where I'm at, and there's not much opportunity to go much faster than 45. every time i got on my "moped" was an opportunity to go faster than 45, i had a 250 and i rode it like i stole it. anyway . . . here's something that might interest you: If your roller weights are giving you good acceleration, and a good top end, but when you approach a small hill the scooter slows drastically, this may be caused by having too light of a contra spring. The contra spring helps push the rear pully back together when torque is applied to the rear pully. Also if you are running good at say 50MPH, and you slow down to say 35MPH. If you try to accelerate, and you have hardly any acceleration, this can also be caused by having too light of a contra spring. When you slow down, the spring is supposed to push the rear pully together into a lower gear ratio. If the spring isn't strong enough, the pully will remain in a high gear, and then when you try to accelerate, there isn't enough power to push you because you are in too high of a gear. On the other hand, if your spring is too strong, then the roller weights may not be heavy enough to force the belt out all the way and into it's highest gear ratio. If you go with a heavier contra spring, you may need to go to a slightly higher roller weight. Likewise, if you go to a lower spring, you may need to go to a lighter weight. There is a very fine balance that you must achieve between the contra spring and your roller weights. This is only accomplished through trial and error. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 16, 2016 8:43:36 GMT -5
i think one of the biggest problems with sedgeways is the momentum of the rider.
you simply cannot get much speed and fast stops without throwing the rider from the machine.
inline wheels, such as scooters and motorcycles, prevents these types of accidents.
the only exception would be revving the engine and dumping the clutch for a wheelie.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 16, 2016 8:05:38 GMT -5
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Segway_PTunder the technology heading we have: IOW, the sedgeway tries to keep your center of gravity over the drive wheels. when at rest, it does this by a very slight to and fro motion.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 15, 2016 10:19:17 GMT -5
if i understand the technology correctly, "hoverboards", AKA sedgeways, balance themselves by a very slight backward and forward motion to keep the center of gravity over the wheel axle.
to go forward, you lean forward, and the mechanism drives the wheels to reacquire balance.
scooters aren't balanced in this manner.
so my answer is no, scooters will not be applicable to the hoverboard concept.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 14, 2016 11:05:49 GMT -5
All is good, though, I do smell anti-freeze but don't see any drips...? antifreeze will expand when it gets hot. if you have filled the radiator till it starts running out of the overflow, then the expanding antifreeze will force its way around the pressure cap. i was always (every day) putting a few ounces in the radiator until i figured that out. i just quite putting any in unless i was seeing the core tubes. so, unless you have a recovery tank (mine didn't), you are just wasting antifreeze by filling to overflowing. remember to use aluminum safe antifreeze, it should say that it's aluminum safe on the bottle. premixed 50/50 should work for you unless you live in siberia or antarctica. if you mix it yourself then use distilled water. all this talk about your 250 has really given me the blues. i swear, i'm addicted to two wheels. i'm amazed that more people don't ride them. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 12, 2016 23:49:08 GMT -5
i envy you yelloscoot.
my scoot is sitting out back with an unknown engine problem, i'm not sure what's wrong with it.
it's been probably 2 years since that engine turned over.
i've been thinking about another engine for it and using the old one for parts.
scrappy sells the complete engine for around 1000 bucks, but i just can't seem to scrape up the money for it.
anyway, make sure you do a thorough job with the electrical part of your PDI, almost all of my no start situations was electrical in nature.
if your engine is the genuine cfmoto, then the mechanical parts are going to be almost the best you can get.
for example, the clutch shoes in my ride showed almost no wear after 10,000 miles.
the bearings are japanese quality.
in any event, you are going to like this 250 because these engines were designed from the ground up to be high revving engines.
may the wind always be at your back and you have clear horizons.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 12, 2016 8:11:57 GMT -5
before i sank a bunch of money into a free scooter, i would go over it about 6 times with a microscope.
i would also see that i could get it legal, properly registered at the BMV.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 11, 2016 22:25:25 GMT -5
Then I checked from battery ground to starter and reading 4.5-5 volts. The positive "cables" from the battery to the relay and relay to the starter get very warm and I hear, I think, a light "sizzle" sound when pressing the start button to test the voltage. yes, i suppose you would be hearing something frying when dropping that many volts. go through the start circuit inch by inch. start with the big red wire at the positive battery post. inspect the connector on the wire, look for greenish corrosion where the wire is crimped to the connector. next, inspect the connection surfaces, they should be clean and dry. inspect and clean each connection in the start circuit in this manner. the start circuit: positive battery post. one connection on solenoid. the other connection on solenoid. the starter terminal. one of the starter mounting screws where the ground is connected. the battery negative post. inspect and clean each of theses connections. if there is corrosion on the wire where the connector is crimped, the get a new wire. also make sure these are heavy gauge wires and as short as possible. also make sure these are single pieces, not twisted together and taped |
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