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Post by jasong on May 28, 2014 22:54:13 GMT -5
Jason I have had a very busy day today , I know I have not been as responsive as normal . Your CDI is showing tracking movement . you can hear the muffler in the video it was only reved a little above 3000 to show the timing advance . John Not a problem! One question I had was about the new jet. If when I'm tuning the carb right now, and I'm not backing out the fuel/air screw all the way, does that mean I don't need to upjet? How does that relationship work between the position it's in now, and how a larger (opening) jet will help? Either way, I'm excited to get everything! That exhaust has my attention now. Is there a picture on your website of it? I'm assuming there's no catalytic converter in it like the stock muffler? Will it pass emissions inspection?
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Post by jasong on May 28, 2014 22:52:27 GMT -5
Good job Jasong, Normally the best air flow is about a 6-8 extension or right on the carb itself. But if the valves are just TICKING is ok, Clatter Clatter is to much of a gap. If you want to quite them down bring them both down to .003 inchs. Alleyoop Gotcha. Yeah I hadn't noticed anything at all before, but when I checked valves yesterday, exhaust was at something like .001, way too close, so it would make sense that I might hear something I hadn't been hearing before. Is the carb tuning guide in the scoot dawg manual the best way? Just adjust the fuel/air mix screw slightly until you find the sweet spot where you can hear/see the rpm's at their best? It doesn't have as much top end as before so I'd like to get it close again. However, it is nice to simply have it running again Once that CDI gets here from John, I'll be in business!
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Post by jasong on May 28, 2014 20:31:06 GMT -5
Alright. So. I cut the hose like Alley suggested, and shortened the long vacuum tube, and viola! I have an engine. Now, I hear an audible tapping that I'm assuming is my valves? My acceleration still isn't 100% but I think it will clear up with proper adjustments. My valves were just set to .004". Do I open or close to eliminate the tapping?
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Post by jasong on May 28, 2014 15:58:04 GMT -5
I was adjusting the one on the side of the carburetor. As for the spitting, it only did that when I was constantly messing with the adjustments after I had been at it for three hours. The loss of power is the main problem right now, which air seems like it could affect, but I don't think it will totally remedy the problem. I took apart the carb yesterday, see picture above, and everything moved freely and I figured it refilling with gas would flush whatever might have been stuck out. Carb is 2-3 months old.
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Post by jasong on May 28, 2014 7:51:50 GMT -5
Ok, first off never put the air filter to the front like that, up front not much air is getting to the filter, also the run it's to long. Take the white piping off and put the Filter on the end of the black tubing and have the filter to either side where ever it has room. The air coming in is not flowing right and creating a lot of turbulence before it reaches the carb and not a nice constant flow of air. You hear the deep throaty sound that tells you it is running to rich not enough air. Alleyoop TO READ WHAT I WROTE CLICK ON THE PICTURE TO MAKE IT BIGGER. The shorter Vacuum lines to whatever the better: Thanks for all the information. The reason I routed it up there was because the factory air box was in that location, but I'll adjust it based on your notes. The long vacuum line shown was actually an adjustment I made after all of the problems started, but I'll fix it accordingly. When it bogs down, I hear a lot of noise in the head, is that normal for where I should be hearing it manifest? I'll try all of this after work!
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Post by jasong on May 27, 2014 23:23:47 GMT -5
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Post by jasong on May 27, 2014 21:53:00 GMT -5
Hey folks. This is a continuation of my saga with my 2013 Tao Tao 150cc Scoot. My old thread can be found here: itistheride.boards.net/thread/5315/taotao-150cc-problems-start-luggingI was repositioning my pod filter from directly off of the carb to the old air filter tube which curves up and over a brace in the frame. The filter was rubbing on the frame, causing a vibrating sound for weeks. I unscrewed the intake manifold to get the carb up, unattached the pod filter from the carb, attached the old tubing, checked to make sure everything was connected properly, and retightened everything. I started it up, idled fine, went to ride the scooter, got up to 4,000 RPM's and it suddenly lost power and bogged down. It sputtered if I continued to give it gas and I had to turn around. Since then, I've checked everything possible. Removed the intake manifold, carb and filter and reattached it, messed with my air/fuel mix, checked valves (which were off and now are at .004"), put in a new plug, checked that the coil is tight, and I'm still getting the exact same symptom. I had no problems whatsoever prior to moving the air filter, and now I can't get it to go above 30 mph. It seems like I'm missing something terribly obvious but I've checked and rechecked everything. While revving it this afternoon, the carb did start spitting gas out of the overflow and then wouldn't run at idle. I took the carb off, drained it, and checked to make sure the float was moving freely, which it was. Reattached and the same symptoms resulted. The kicker to this whole thing was that it ran perfectly fine prior to me messing with the air filter and I'm baffled. TL:DR - Scooter ran fine, moved air filter, now loses power and bogs down, sputters at WOT above 20 mph. Please help!
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Post by jasong on May 18, 2014 10:46:54 GMT -5
Hey folks,
So, with Johns help from NYC Scooter (Thank you so much!) I got a new pod filter and carb put it. Totally transformed the scooter. Now, after riding it for a few months, I'm ready for more upgrades and tackling the last few gripes I have. First, I put 10g sliders in the CVT and it definitely helped. However, I'm still topping out at 6100RPM's during acceleration. On a slight downhill I can make it to 60+ on the chinometer and RPM's hover around 6,600-6,700. With this in mind, I want to go lighter on the weights. John had mentioned doing a performance CVT and upgrading the weights at that point and that may be what I do next.
Hill climbing has improved, but I still lose between 5-7 MPH while climbing. Should I go with a stiffer spring at this point? Is the red one the one I want?
Gas: I see this argued everywhere. I'm in Raleigh, NC and use Premium every fill up. The times I've filled up with regular I get a noticable drop in acceleration. Can this be solved with one of those fancy advanced timing CDI's and let me use regular and have the same performance?
Exhaust: Will I see any gains from adding an aftermarket Ebay exhaust? I may just do it for the sound, but wanted to know what you all thought.
Thanks for the help!
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Post by jasong on Mar 5, 2014 15:53:56 GMT -5
Thanks for the response. I'm a 180 lb man with maybe 5 pounds of extra gear on the scoot. Ideally I'd like to replace the carb with a better one, and upgrade some variator parts. I have no clue where to look for the carb, I've poked around a little and don't know which ones would work with my scooters setup, or what size mine is currently. The carb's float bowl has torque-broken screws on them, I'll drill them out and replace with the correct size if changing the main jet will help and will be cheaper than buying a new carb. The carb seems to be a major issue, as some rides I'll hit 55mph no problem, and other rides it starts really slowing down at 40mph. When it warms up I'm going to check my valves again. The scooter has 1100km's on it, and this has really been a problem since I first go it with not having phenomenal acceleration, rpm's not getting over 5,000, etc. The cvt has always made a noise like the belt is slapping the cover, and there is a mark on the bottom of the cover from the belt hitting it. So, I'll check valves, make sure my carb is tuned correctly. If this were your scooter, what would you look at replacing next (keeping in mind a college budget )
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Post by jasong on Mar 4, 2014 22:19:18 GMT -5
Not sure I can tell from the pictures but I'll certainly look into it if you think it'll help. Is TVNACMAN a user on here, or a website?
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Post by jasong on Mar 4, 2014 21:37:10 GMT -5
Here's some I took the other day, I'll have to take it apart again to get a picture of the CVT. imgur.com/a/Z5VMnI'm going to recheck my valves, I wonder if I didn't adjust them right the first time. Engine is a 157QMJ 150cc GY6
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Post by jasong on Mar 4, 2014 18:07:46 GMT -5
Bump.
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Post by jasong on Mar 2, 2014 15:15:57 GMT -5
Also, the rattling sound I've been getting when putting the bike under torque is definitely the belt hitting the bottom of the CVT case between the clutch and the variator. I replaced the belt when I replaced the sliders, original was an 835-20-30 and I replaced with the same size Gates Powerlink. However, when the belt was on, there was slack at the bottom and when I pulled the throttle with the cover off, the slack would go away, but come back when not under torque. Is this part of the problem as well? Need a smaller belt?
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Post by jasong on Mar 1, 2014 21:27:04 GMT -5
Hey folks, So I installed my 10g sliders today, found out the original rollers were 13g. My RPM's now peg, whether uphill, or flat, at between 5,800 and 6,100. My 0-40 is pretty fast, but my top speed on a flat has gone from 55ish after I fixed my a/f mix to around 51. I would be 100% happy if I had this acceleration with my previous top speed, but I realize that is a slight tradeoff. The other issue that I hoped would resolve itself is hills. I'm still dropping speed fast on hills, but my RPM's are staying constant. Does that indicate the need for a new contra spring? I'm willing to mess with performance variators and such if it'll solve some of my problems. I'm also willing to go lower with my weights to get those RPM's up (6,000 aint 7,500 haha), but don't want to lose more top end Advice? Discounted parts that you don't need anymore?
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Post by jasong on Feb 20, 2014 19:31:18 GMT -5
Unplugged the A/F screw, adjusted it via the manual on here, and viola! I have acceleration! Still not where it should be (i.e.>5,000 when accelerating) as its around 4,000-4,500 during most of the acceleration. Total RPM's I've gotten on a flat is around 5,800, on a downhill I've gotten up to 6,200 RPM's. Uphills are more manageable now, but definitely could be improved.
Looking at sliders tonight and we'll see when I get them in.
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