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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 26, 2013 12:51:05 GMT -5
Maybe it thinks you need to have a wee
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 26, 2013 11:21:09 GMT -5
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Priceless
by: jeepsteve92xj - Jun 26, 2013 8:57:10 GMT -5
Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 26, 2013 8:57:10 GMT -5
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 26, 2013 7:49:29 GMT -5
Top Gear Vietnam is my fav episode. I've watched it probably 4 or 5 times.  |
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 26, 2013 7:41:36 GMT -5
The ITA 150 has front and rear disk brakes.
An interesting note about the rear brake on my Znen, also a f/r disk scooter.
Recently after long stretches between stops - like a mile or two, I realized I had to pump the rear brake.
Then my exhaust bracket broke, and then an ear on the engine where the swing arm mounts at the top broke.
And the rear axle nut was snug, not tight.
The swing arm had play, so any possible wobble in the wheel was also wobbling the rotor, and therefore pushing the pads further apart. Now the swing arm is secured, and the axle is tight. I did not ride far enough to check it yet, but I am sure after I rejet the carb, the rear brake will be good to go (stop) without pumping.
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 25, 2013 22:32:31 GMT -5
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 25, 2013 9:39:26 GMT -5
It is time to do a thorough bleed of both brakes - be sure to get new fluid through the lines.
I bled both of mine when I broke the right hand sight 'glass'. New clean brake fluid works so much better. Stick with DOT3 brake fluid, don't use synthetic brake fluid.
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 23, 2013 17:56:09 GMT -5
Thanks, steve. There's the beef! ;D >'Kat Sorry, the image woudln't cooperate. You'll have to follow the first eBay url. |
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 23, 2013 10:17:06 GMT -5
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 23, 2013 8:26:19 GMT -5
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 22, 2013 21:43:07 GMT -5
[replyingto=jeepsteve92xj]jeepsteve92xj[/replyingto]some pics of the work on the Znen: s235.photobucket.com/user/jeepsteve92xj/library/scooter/ZNEN/Znen-new%20exhaust%20and%20broken%20caseI've put quite a few layers of JB weld epoxy style mix. It aint curing quick. Had to pull off the swing arm, and went ahead and pulled the wheel off. The axle nut wasn't anything like tight. I probably could have pulled al the bits off and replaced the entire right sice case/cover. It is the cover that separates the stator from the oil pump and all. |
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 21, 2013 20:49:08 GMT -5
I think my exhaust didnt really make a difference on accessing the stator - I had just put the new exhaust on when I had to replace my stator. The body work is more in the way than the exhaust was.
I did not remove the new exhaust to get to the stator.
When I did replace the exhaust, it was really simple, no problem - undid the head nuts and then the swingarm bolts. Came right off. I did have the exhaust off last year cause I wanted to try and quiet the rattly . There was no original gasket, so I got a sheet or Felpro material with metal in it, worked well.
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 21, 2013 13:01:08 GMT -5
I believe that the normal GY6 valve cover uses a rubber O-ring type, and the GY6B uses a paper type gasket under the valve cover.
I have a Xingyue ITA 150 with the GY6B. I've reused mine a couple times now, I usually put a thin layer of grease on both sides of the paper. It stays put, and doesn't leak, keeps the paper gasket from deteriorating.
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 21, 2013 7:19:04 GMT -5
I got mine from scrappy- I also have an ITA150, and it worked fine. GY6 dual sided Flywheel rotor puller tool This is a reversable flywheel puller tool that works on both 50cc and 150cc GY6 based scooter/atv engines. Do it right, and do it cheap at only $29.  ! on this page - five / sixths of the way down www.scrappydogscooters.com/COMMON_PARTS.html |
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 18, 2013 16:22:42 GMT -5
They list the GY6-B motors too, up to 232cc.... that would be pretty sweet to haul my fat azz at a good clip! But they are $$$$
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!