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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jan 20, 2014 16:32:49 GMT -5
Its not a win untill you can break the speed limit. lol
If you played with the carb and it went faster then that was your problem
I fixed this one guy's scooter and it was acting the same way you described, without the improvements and I put my a spare carb on and it was an instant improvement.
Good engine(Compression)+Good air/gas mix+electricity= Combustion
Disturb the balance of any of these and you have a shitty running engine.
Only problem is carb problem and electric problem often mimic each other. Or at least thats what experience has showed me. Put it on the stand let it warm up and throw it in full throttle and listen closely at the way it revs. It should sound clean all the way, not bogging, sputtering. I mean closed throttle to open. It should take about 3 secs literally to get to max rpm. Also you could have vaccum leaks (Extra air sneaking its way to the intake).
You should post a video if you can.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jan 20, 2014 3:08:47 GMT -5
First, I would adjust the valves. If that doesn't fix it adjust the carb. Then proceed to see if its a trans problem.
If your belt were slipping you would see noticeable ware.
Ride it for about 10 mins and check the spark color.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jan 19, 2014 23:32:06 GMT -5
A spuddering, cutting out, sound would mean its electrical
If it sounds normal at idle and bad at any other time It could be the valves need adjusting, Severely mis-adjusted carb, or bad piston.
Does it start easy?
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jan 19, 2014 23:23:33 GMT -5
When I had my stock lean carb, accel was still good. Just lacked top speed.
If the scooters are identical I would start swapping parts between the two to find the difference.
You said accel is slow, what does the engine sound like when you rev it? It could be possible the stock carb wasn't adjusted accordingly before they sealed it.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jan 19, 2014 23:10:51 GMT -5
If your headlights get really bright right before they go out its because their being over-volted. If their getting too much power its because the regulator is not regulating the power accordingly.
You said it happens at high rpm. The faster the flywheel spins the more electricity it generates.
Its located right in the very front of the scooter, attached to the frame behind the headlights.
Its cheaper and easier than fixing a tire.
I was having the same problem, thought it was a wire, so I replaced the headlight harness and they still blew. Replaced the regulator and haven't changed the headlights since.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jan 16, 2014 21:37:30 GMT -5
Why were you replacing a good stator?? Do you poke yourself in the eyes too? Because the other one was new and I wanted to see if my bike would run/charge better, and to test it. Do you question why we have stop signs too? |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jan 15, 2014 10:26:33 GMT -5
How about you not mention anything except for the fact the battery won't stay charged and see what they can do for you. Besides the fact that the dealer probably knows the headlight was working when it left and now it doesn't 'cause it's blown? It's also dishonest. If I were the dealer, that would immediately make me less willing to work with him--"He didn't tell me he'd tried fixing it. Wonder what else he's hiding? What else did he do to it? Who knows how messed up it is now? Sorry, no deal, can't help." >'Kat I'm sure dealer thought the battery was charging too when it left. I'm sure they tested out the bike before they put it on the floor to be sold especially if it is used. New would be a diff story. I'm sure if the only thing that happened was the headlight blowing out then that's the only thing the other voltage reg screwed up. If voltage reg screwed up everything when they went out, then we would be replacing everything and not just the regulator. Plus he's not asking for a refund or money back, or even a new light he just wants his new bike he paid for to work properly and charge the battery. If anything the company should replace the light and fix the problem free for the inconvenience. If the bike operated as the "honest" company told him then he would be out riding instead of writing. OH BTW I just remembered... My bike stopped charging when I did a stator swap. It was almost like it was sucking the life out of it while it was running. The one coil said to be for charging was nicked and you could see a little wire.Someone told me it was grounding to the case. Bike ran fine just no charge. Then I replaced stator to original and never had any problems since. I've also had a regulator that would blow my headlights out after 1 mile. Replaced that and my bulbs remain good, and the bad regulator ONLY effected the head lights |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jan 15, 2014 1:36:54 GMT -5
How about you not mention anything except for the fact the battery won't stay charged and see what they can do for you.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jan 13, 2014 11:32:49 GMT -5
I would do the valves. Every bike that run fine hot but stalls cold usually needs valves adjusted or have a word engine
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jan 9, 2014 18:09:58 GMT -5
Ya, everyone I asked said it was ok to do it, and then when I post a forum about how I almost got my eye taken out. Their like you gotta hold it in............................................. Reasons why I consider advise instead of taking it.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jan 9, 2014 17:56:33 GMT -5
I'll give all of those a try for sure. Can I start the scooter without the variator and cover on, or do I need to pull them off after I get it running? I've never tried, and it seems like the starter gear would fly out if not held in securely by the cover.... I tried to start a scooter without cover as people told me I could and my starter Bendix like exploded into a million pieces. It was so dangerous. Started scoot and THEN took off the cover and it was fine. After that life threatening experience I always take the Bendix out and start with kick starter, then remove the cover. Also, my clutch got semi-seized after oil got in my cvt and everytime I would gas it, it would bog and die even on the stand like you said. I didnt notice it until I went to put the belt back on the clutch after cleaning it and the clutch would not open and when it did finally it got stuck open (High tension spring should have closed it immediately without hesitation). Replaced the clutch with a used spare and it was like magic, the bike didn't bog anymore. I was like riding with the brake on at some-point.. Rpm's raised drastically after the clutch switch. I was however able to get the bike to accel past the bog but it took forever. It was like being stuck in a high gear. It would take miles for it to reach top speed as if it needed an super extended warmup period |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jan 9, 2014 14:45:01 GMT -5
I was wrong about no hard accel. I would follow the guide on #6. You have to go through all rpms, just not long extended wot. Engine needs a load for the rings to seal good. |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jan 8, 2014 15:32:51 GMT -5
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jan 8, 2014 9:43:39 GMT -5
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jan 8, 2014 8:17:57 GMT -5
Depends on how careful you are with your gas tank. A couple days shouldn't matter, just don't run the tank dry. You can get a fuel filter from anywhere, lawnmowers and other gas tools use the same type of filters and gas lines. Ive seen metal screen filters and ones that look like they have a paper filter in then. Never seen a filter on any scooter get clogged or needed to be changed after years of use, so you should be fine, but then again it could be just your luck for something to get through and clog the carb
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