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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 9:42:39 GMT -5
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 9:04:12 GMT -5
To eliminate the gas tank issue simply run it without the cap. If the gas level is low enough and there are no major cracks in the road you should be good spillage wise. If it runs good then drill a small hole in the gas cap for ventilation.
On the other hand if your idle randomly increased you have a vacuum leak and air is gettin in somehow.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 8:54:24 GMT -5
Some people have good luck and they never go on the bikes, some don't. I've had my headlights blow out back to back, but only at mid-high, changed the regulator and have been fine ever since.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 8:36:32 GMT -5
The tire probably lost too much air and its seal from siting if it already had a slow leak. **A tubeless tire would just inflate and continue to leak.** I ment to say a tire WITH a tube. Tube-less uses the air-pressure to seal the sidewall onto the rim and keep the air in. Under a curtain psi and its going to leak everything out. Where-as a tubed tire has an inner-tube pre sealed and all you have to go is pump it up. This video should explain what i'm talking about... It uses wheel-barrow tire as the example but the same applies with all tires. I would also replace the valve stem during all this. If you see no reason for the tire to leak air this is probably the reason. |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 8:27:54 GMT -5
The tire probably lost too much air and its seal from siting if it already had a slow leak. **A tubeless tire would just inflate and continue to leak.** |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 8:21:17 GMT -5
If you hear the suction noise your tank could be sucking gas and not replacing it with air, and creating a vacuum inside the tank that is preventing gas from leaving the tank.
Your valves could be the culprit too.
Does it stall while riding? or only at stops?
If its only at stops its your valves.
Do you have to gas it a little to get it started? thats a siggn of your valves needing adjusting too.
I would adjust both of the, to a a .004 where you can still get the .005 in with mild force.
If the carb is adjusted adequately the bike should start within 1.5 secs cold and 1 secs hot, with electric starter or with 1 kick hot or cold. Or at least thats how I have all the bikes I've worked on trained.
And that silver bar in front of the valve cover should be attached to the valve cover and bolted onto the head. Just unscrew it, it takes the same 8mm as the cover screws.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 28, 2014 19:06:54 GMT -5
Sounds like a dead on fuel delivery problem. Sounds like your carb bowl is running dry, so either the tank is vapor locked(unscrew cap and here a suction noise) or your vacuum is weak. If its your tank idk, sorry never had this problem. If its a vacuum issue make sure the intake manifold is tightened and not cracked, check hoses for leaks. Take them off the manifold and suck on them and see if they leak air. If not no leak and its more than likely the tank problem.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 28, 2014 18:43:37 GMT -5
Any bike I've has lost power on 87 and i'm an all or nothing kinda guy so I just get  . The bikes called for  or over by manufacture. |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 28, 2014 18:31:32 GMT -5
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 28, 2014 12:52:28 GMT -5
So my bike had a bad electrical problem that blew out my stators and cdi's and I narrowed it down to the wire harness and replaced it. No more burning out parts but the original stator I used worked but barely showing only 3-7vdc charging to battery. Everything from the stator read good voltages ac though, so I changed the voltage regulator from another bike and had the same result. I then unplugged the lights connector from the stator and the bike went fast and idled better so I deemed the stator bad and replaced. Now the bike runs good but still low charging volts. I put the new harness on good. Had the same volt problems before and after harness change. Maybe try a new regulator? I don't know how good the bike I took it from ran. Other than that i'm clueless
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 28, 2014 4:32:34 GMT -5
Thanks. I figured as much,, its just nice to have a second opinion
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 27, 2014 22:04:51 GMT -5
Would this work performance wise, or just lower my compression?
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 27, 2014 21:48:01 GMT -5
I think your problem might be you heavy slider weights with and without a bbk my weights had to have been between 5.5g-6.6g or my top speed was effected. Tried 8 gram weights once and the top was effected.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 27, 2014 21:39:19 GMT -5
Its either that or you have a hidden short some where. I would put my money on the regulator though. Do you ride in rain or any bad weather? What kind of scooter do you have. Also those voltages will kill your battery
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 27, 2014 21:19:18 GMT -5
If you have high voltage you voltage regulator is not doing its job. Its responsible for keeping electricity on the bike regulated, hence its name. Its possible that you wired something wrong or created a short during the led installation, but assuming you knew what you were doing this is probably not likely. You should have ran a separate line directly to the battery for the leds. The wire harnesses are made with paper thin wires and tend to fail. I would check for a possible short anywhere, or loose connections then I would assume the voltage regulator. Their often under 10 bucks and are extremely easy to change. It should be located in the front of the scooter behind the body mounted to the frame. Simply unplug it, unscrew it and replace. Running at the voltage will damage your battery.
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main jet to be able to adjust the carb adequately and a free flow air filter
main jet to be able to adjust the carb adequately and a free flow air filter
. The bikes called for 
or over by manufacture.