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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 30, 2014 10:52:04 GMT -5
I bought a jet kit that came with jets from 82-  and found out that, that was the best for the bike. Parts may be different. I would recommend getting a jet kit and which is the best for your bike. If you can't afford it at the moment an  jet is safe to use. The kits come with #  jets but I could never get the bike to really move until I put in the . And i've only used the foam free flow air filter |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 21:43:33 GMT -5
What is the best camshaft for stock 139qmb?
Also you know how theirs the "A" series camshafts what would the stock fall on?
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 21:03:08 GMT -5
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 18:19:20 GMT -5
Starting was rough till I bought the advancing angle cdi from tvnacman, now it starts at the press of the button. Acceleration is terrific, no cars keep up with me off the start, and only those putting the pedal to the metal keep up with me through the mid range. Top speed on flat ground is 54mph, I can reach 60 going downhill. What kind of cdi did you buy and from where? |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 18:09:34 GMT -5
How 6 8 11 coil stator how 5 6 7 pin regulator ? John 8pole And I think 5pin but may be 6, i'll have to check. |
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A9 cam
by: jjoshua20213 - Apr 29, 2014 17:59:36 GMT -5
Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 17:59:36 GMT -5
I've used it in a stock 49cc bike and it did not cause any problems, changed back to stock. A9 is for bbk's
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 14:57:25 GMT -5
Yea all good But What Are The Readings? 1. At Idle what does Volt Meter Read? 2. When you Rev it up to around 4K what does the Volt Meter Read? All of what you say dim and horn barely honks points to a very weak battery. Now it could be a bad battery and or a not charging R/R it could be both. Alleyoop 4.3vdc at idle 7.2 max when revved And I mean weak horn and lights at full throttle going max speed. When battery is connected all lights are bright, but headlights are still weak and the battery drains after a decent ride. Battery tests at 13vdc charged and holds a good charge. When the bike is running and the battery is connected it tests at 12.4vdc, with brake lights and turning signals it drops around 11.92vdc, when I cut the bike off the battery climbs back to around 13vdc. The gauges even drop due to low power at idle, but rise and function normal when revved Read more: itistheride.boards.net/thread/5788/5v-idle-max-charging-voltage?page=1&scrollTo=66134#ixzz30J6li0sK |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 14:41:14 GMT -5
Not sure if a bigger head keeps compression the same as stock. I still run the stock head on my bbk, so perhaps I'm confusing the issue. Regardless, high octane is not necessary on gy6 engines. I notice a slight performance difference on regular, like engine feels like it lost power, but still runs starts and rides good. I rarely is mid grade so I can't comment. Whats your top speed. Any starting problems from high compression? Hows the accel? |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 14:31:51 GMT -5
From video 1:  1. There are two screws under it holding it on circled in black Once everything is off you should be able to slide it off. I've never seen those bars blocking it. They look unnecessary, like they try to make engine service harder. 2. Circled in blue is where there should be a tube connected to from that black canister.  That screw is your idle adjustment screw. Turning that is the equivalent of turning the throttle only it holds it in place. If you look closely the screw is on the throttle and sets the lower limit. And your bike sound and revs fine to me. If you were able to suck air through the 1 tube than there is a problem with the whole canister setup. A vacuum leak not only adds extra air to your air/fuel mix, it lowers vacuum levels too. At high rpm your vacuum level drops a significant amount and at idle its strongest. Sounds like your running the carb dry with high gas demand and not enough vacuum to let the fuel pump supply it. Your spark plug looked decent. If you had checked it after it died out before running it again it would probably be white. |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 12:58:54 GMT -5
Yes many times people buy several R/Rs before they get one that works right and puts out good voltage to charge the battery. What is the Volt reading on the wire from the R/R going to your battery? Have you tested the Stator and see if it is putting putting out 40-100 Vac to the R/R? If it is then its your R/R. Alleyoop The voltage regulator was only a couple months old when it started reading ,low volts, swapped with one from another scooter and I have the same problem, tested the volts from the other scooter running and its the same. At the time both stators and regulators had been in my bike before so I figured it was the stator. Installed a brand new stator yesterday. It fixed the running problems(Weak spark after failure) Got back my mpg, easy start,ect, but still low charging voltage. I checked the vac for both + wires on the 3prong plug from the stator and got a good reading(used the third wire for ground) I changed the wire harness because I randomly started blowing cdi's back to back and the stator/ and or pick up coil New harness no problems Oh and I got the readings from the +&- wires connecting to the battery. Its not just charging volts its ALL electricity. Head lights are dim, tail light is dim, horn barely sounds and turning signals are weak. Did I mention I was able to get an ac reading also from the wires connecting to the battery? I forgot how much ac but I get both readings |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 12:35:56 GMT -5
I think your problem might be you heavy slider weights with and without a bbk my weights had to have been between 5.5g-6.6g or my top speed was effected. Tried 8 gram weights once and the top was effected. Sorry, misread the post, but this is a though for higher top speed |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 12:25:55 GMT -5
High octane is made for high compression. If you don't have a bbk installed, 87 will work fine and anything higher is a waste of money (though not much since it only costs $3 to fill up). I thought with bbk's the compression stays in the same range due to the bigger head. Now a bbk with stock head would have high compression. Haven't done compression checks to verify, but a new bbk and new stock build seems to have around the same compression levels unless the piston,crankshaft, ect is modified. |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 12:18:15 GMT -5
Has your bike backfired at all on de-accel? Vacuum leaks cause the bike to run extremely lean and will overheat the bike witch in turn makes metal expand and will quickly damage the piston ring and cylinder and make you bike run like its been owned for a year and oil gets dirty faster due to blowby. Check your spark to make sure its not on the verge of seizing. Ive had a bike that was too lean and I was going through plugs in a week and a half. They wouldn't die on my just the bike would run rough and eat more gas than usual. After a new plug I got a little faster accel and easier starts and quiet idles.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 12:07:26 GMT -5
The one on the left if for your fuel petcock. It sucks air on the line and releases a diaphragm to let gas pass, when vacuum stops, the diaphragm drops and blocks off the gas passage.
Something is wrong, that canister looking this the scooter's emission witch is notorious for having problem like this.
Its just a fancy way of adding air to the exhaust to dilate emissions for California standards
Its not supposed to suck air through, not even the tiniest bit.
It should not have ANY ports without hoses connected to it.
There should be 1 big hose that connects to the valve cover at the bottom under the silver pipe looking thing
1 more big pipe that connects to nothing and 1 vacuum hose that connects to the intake manifold.
If there are any open ports either the hoses are unplugged or were never attached. If thats the case just go back to the dealer or buy the hoses for under 10 bucks.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 9:47:33 GMT -5
Yea, i'm pretty sure you have an air leak somewhere. take the tubes off the intake manifold one by one and suck on the to see if air is getting through. If it it is inspect and replace the hose.
If not air is getting through, make sure your carb is fastened on the bike tightly and the manifold if secure and not cracked. The extra air should be making your spark plug lean, check it and its gunna be white.
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and found out that, that was the best for the bike. Parts may be different. I would recommend getting a jet kit and which is the best for your bike. If you can't afford it at the moment an 
jet is safe to use. The kits come with #
jets but I could never get the bike to really move until I put in the 
