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Post by jjoshua20213 on May 4, 2014 15:10:11 GMT -5
I know you probably did this but are your valves set at .004 with tolerance for .005?(meaning .005 will slide in this medium force.
Whens the last time you changed your spark plug?
How clean is your oil?
If all the things above are taken care of then you may have a weak spark
How much do you weigh?
What size carb and main jet do you have?
Can you take a video os it running and revving.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on May 3, 2014 9:31:23 GMT -5
Try this.. turn the key on but do not start the scoot. Check your horn..turn signals and brake light and see if they work better. Also check the battery voltage ac and dc with the key on and the engine not running.(Of course battery should not show ANY AC..running or not running..but we had one that did) Then start the engine and do the same..and.. Tell us what ya find..as I just went through this on a customer Scoot a few weeks ago and found the issue..  When the scooters not running but in the on position everything works and sounds fine, voltages read normal no ac. When the scooters running everything works fine sounds fine, weak but brighter headlight and the battery drains. I unplug the battery and everything electrical is weak including gauges and I only get around 6vdc and an ac current. |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on May 2, 2014 15:40:51 GMT -5
If you used anything but your metal head gasket than thats your problem, compression is leaking right out.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on May 2, 2014 14:54:13 GMT -5
No clue. I just took my old line to the auto parts store and they found a match. Cost under 3 bucks.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on May 2, 2014 14:51:53 GMT -5
I might try to mix some 9s and 7s, or go back to my 7s. But this problem was present w/7's in. It sucks. I further isolated it to the rear area/low side of the carb. The leak is either at the bottom of the air intake hose coming from the air box to the carb or it is in the carb itself on the lower half, rear side. I tried putting my finger over various parts in that area and then using some RTV silicon to seal off possible leaks, but the only thing that would affect rpms is the spray in a short, heavy dose. Oddly, when I went to re-adjust my a/f, turning it fully clockwise did not stop the engine; still a bit baffled about that, but I once again adjusted for highest idle (which, on this one, is only about 1.25 turns out). I would do 7g sliders, but wouldn't worry about that until the current problem is fixed. If your bike was still running with the screw all they way in I would think the carb itself has a problem, but I really don't know. |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on May 2, 2014 14:46:04 GMT -5
Suck on it. If air gets through its leaking.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on May 2, 2014 5:13:15 GMT -5
Its not a 150 its a 50 and my does not have that. |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on May 1, 2014 22:58:37 GMT -5
that ebay regulator is so cheap , between paypal , ebay postage fees I can't see it that cheap . What is the wire position on your regulator ? John What do you mean like the colors? I can take pics? |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on May 1, 2014 22:53:02 GMT -5
They also have a 24mm carb they sale with the big vavle head for 50cc's What size head would I need for it? |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on May 1, 2014 16:10:46 GMT -5
I'm trying to max out a 50 cc bike for performance not reliability I'm looking for high speeds at high revs. Don't care about the parts I may destroy doing this, because its just for fun and knowledge Looking for the max a 39mm piston can do. Any other suggestions? I just want to keep the piston and final gears the same anything else goes. Yea thats for 150 up |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on May 1, 2014 15:48:00 GMT -5
I'm trying to max out a 50 cc bike for performance not reliability
I'm looking for high speeds at high revs.
Don't care about the parts I may destroy doing this, because its just for fun and knowledge
Looking for the max a 39mm piston can do.
Any other suggestions? I just want to keep the piston and final gears the same anything else goes.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on May 1, 2014 15:39:28 GMT -5
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Post by jjoshua20213 on May 1, 2014 14:48:55 GMT -5
First check yourself if gas is getting into the oil. If the oil level has not increased it more than likely is not.
Gas in the oil won't cause you to stall but the oil loose its lubricating propertied and the engine will over heat and damage its self or fail.
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A9 cam
by: jjoshua20213 - May 1, 2014 7:20:25 GMT -5
Post by jjoshua20213 on May 1, 2014 7:20:25 GMT -5
jjoshua, what made you change back to a stock cam?? Performance, lack of power in areas of the power band, ect.... This is the config. I'm going to; 20mm carb with  -38 jets A9 cam 44mm stroker, with raised head. optional 60cc Really just need to know am I missing anything, don't want a bbk larger than a 60cc. Oh, yeah, did a caliber check on both cams and .07mm diff or .00275in The bike it was in had issues but ran and I only rode it to a stop sign and back because it would barely move. Changed back to stock and did the same stop sign ride and it went a lot faster. Seemed to pickup after riding for awhile with the a9, so it could just be a slow low end pick up in the mid range. I would get at least an  main jet Why not bigger than 60cc? I know first hand the 50mm is reliable and starts easy. |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on May 1, 2014 6:50:25 GMT -5
Sorry, misread the post, but this is a though for higher top speed I thought heavier weights made for higher top speed? Carb I got is here: carbToo heavy and the bike goes into high gear too early and the engine can't produce enough rpm to push it all. To light and it stays in low gear and over revs, tune right in the middle and you'll have good accel and top speed. I've tested this by putting heavy weights and too light of weights in. |
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-38 jets
main jet