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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 23, 2013 17:40:05 GMT -5
I think replacing the clutch springs can also help. My TaoTao has the "red" (2k RPM) contra and small springs. Excellent acceleration and hillclimbing performance, and it seems to unlock more rpms at the top end. No... this is a huge misconception being spread around, largely by someone that doesn't seem to know what they are talking about half the time and is just regurgitating information most of the time. Clutch springs do absolutely nothing but increase the rpm at which the clutch engages. Take off is a little quicker, but all else is the same. The torque/contra spring helps hill climbing and low end buy keeping more pressure on the rear pulley to hold the belt up higher. It has nothing to do with the clutch. |
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 23, 2013 0:19:30 GMT -5
lol... does it have any decals on it??
When people ask me what kind of scooter mine is, I just say "it's Chinese" and they stare back blankly.
You're on a wild goose chase, and even if you did figure out what it 'is', it won't do you a lick of good, for anything...!
If you need parts, you have to find engine/trans parts by searching by engine type. For body/chassis parts, you have to find out what the most common clone is and search for that. I found scrappy's body type divisions on their site very helpful for this.
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 23, 2013 0:04:11 GMT -5
Gravel might as well be ice to 2-wheels, especially for a new rider. Definitely take is easy on anything but dry pavement/asphalt! You may have been going too fast into the roundabout, but you are most likely still getting used to leaning. When I started riding my 150cc, I absolutely got nervous and wound up having to slow down when I would approach turns that needed a lean to get through at speed. Leaning felt VERY unnatural at first, until i got used to it. Sharp turns, even at slow speed (like a roundabout) need some leaning too, but keeping on the throttle is even more important to help keep you upright in the lean. This was new to me too, since the 50cc didn't have enough top speed or low speed power for those things to matter, lol. This is why they tell you to accelerate into a turn (and never brake in a lean, never use the front bake in any turn) because it makes a huge difference in keeping you up and steady into the turn. Find a big parking lot and practice practice practice. Quick maneuvering is often your only hope at avoiding an accident, and you will ride with more confidence and enjoy it much more once you know just what you can do on those 2 wheels  |
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 21, 2013 17:27:58 GMT -5
The cheap tiny tachs don't have a very fast response time but they work fine for monitoring idle, cruising, and WOT rpms.
But, they are cheap and easy to install. Hardest part is to figure out where to put it!
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 21, 2013 16:47:15 GMT -5
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 21, 2013 16:42:20 GMT -5
You can see the flat spots on some of the rollers - and this pic also reminded me about another nice thing and one odd thing... You can see a few of the CVT cover bolts - the Kymco cover has tapered holes that those rubber grommets nuzzle into... Also it had a nice thick rubber gasket for the cover, contoured with ridges to hold in in place even. It would have been totally re-usable, except it was stretched out at one end. Attachments:
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 21, 2013 16:31:19 GMT -5
I snugged up the exhaust silencer, scooted to buy smokes and put some gas in it |
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 21, 2013 10:02:00 GMT -5
I'm fixing up a Kymco Agility 50cc, mostly it just needs typical things. The belt broke, the rollers are worn out, head light burnt out, rear blinkers broken off, needs an engine/gear oil change...
I was gonna charge $100 to take care of all that - sound fair?
Also the clutch bell is as blue as a smurf - it looks just like the stock one from my 50cc, so I will just give him that if I can borrow an impact to get the nut off. (I take my own scooter to my shop to do that, but we aren't allowed to do side work there)
Everything looks like your standard GY6, but it has a different engine code.
It had been dropped and bent the passenger foot peg back INTO the cooling fan... only 1/5 of the fins were broken and i was able to get the cooling shroud mostly back together...
I haven't started it up yet, but evidently he was riding it like this - so I might have a hard time convincing him to replace those...
He SAYS it ran fine 3 weeks ago before the belt broke... so I'm leaving anything related (fuel filter, valve adjustment) out of the bill until I hear it run... lol.
Anyway... I just wanted to say i am definitely impressed with the Kymco. Everything looks less cheap and almost everything is stamped KYMCO. Things are in places that make more sense, like the fuel filter has its own little home instead of just 'hanging out' like my Chinese ones have. The CDI is tucked away nice and dry in the battery box area. What I'm assuming is the stock coil/wire is NGK and is one sealed unit. The plug boot is huge and solid - I can't imagine it would fall apart on its own like the Chinese ones do. The brake calipers look bigger than what's on my 150!
This one has about 8,000 miles on it, and I don't see one drop of oil leaking (except from the airbox tube)
And my favorite thing... I kept finding what I thought were disconnected vacuum lines that turn out to be water drains that came from several rain drip trays strategically placed around the scooter!
He said he paid $300 for it, which I think is a good deal, even being dropped. The damage isn't too terrible...
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 21, 2013 8:56:20 GMT -5
My factory CDI was limited at 7,000rpm - I know because I swapped it back in for giggles after I got my tach.
I have done lots and lots of experimenting with sliders and now where it seems 'happiest' it doesn't see much over 7k anyway. It seems to pull just as fast at 6,500 as it did at 7,500 rpm... I only breaks past 7K above 50mph.
In stock form, my scooter lugged around at 4,500rpm too. Now it spends most of it's time around 5,500 to 6,500 and pulls great, even with 200 more pounds of load than a normal 150cc.
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 21, 2013 8:41:45 GMT -5
My rpms only started to climb that high when I had 8g sliders in... I tried many different combos and never affected top speed by more than 2-3 mph.
But, but the scooter and I are heavier/larger than normal frames, so its like I permanently have a 200 pound passenger.
Epdowd - I would buy a set of 10g to try. If they are too light, mix them evenly with your 12's to make 11g equivalent.
If you live in a flat area and are not a speed demon, I wouldn't worry about clutch/torque springs.
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 21, 2013 8:21:40 GMT -5
I have done the small wrench trick I saw on youtube several times on a 50cc GY6's with success.
The wrench just has to be the right length to put the open end between the teeth of the variator drive face, and the other end sits in one of the contours of the back of the CVT case.
As you turn the nut either way, let the wrench find where it wants to be to wedge the gear from turning.
Another hint - most 4-way lug wrenches have a 17mm end, which is what you need for the variator nut.
I have NOT successfully done any of the tricks to get a clutch nut off though... lol
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 19, 2013 16:38:12 GMT -5
One teaspoon of sugar in a coffee is nothing compared to someone who drinks soda all day...! And try milk instead of cream - I use 2% and it does the job just fine. Once I got used to it, I can't use cream any more, its TOO creamy! lol. 8 o'clock coffee is all I drink (when I make it myself) - whole beans ground right before, and brewed in a french press. A little old lady told me about it and I haven't bought anything else since. Original or Colombian only - I can't STAND flavored coffee! (but a hint of vanilla or coco is ok) Anyone who hasn't used a french press - you must. You will love it. You can make a 30oz espresso with one if you want I feel like lost puppy before I have mine in the morning... |
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 18, 2013 21:44:29 GMT -5
If you put grease anywhere, put it on the main shaft where it goes through the cover, and on the little gear where it sits and turns in its hole.
Do both those pieces fit nice and snug in their holes? Just a little bit of play is enough to make it bind.
Also the small gear is supposed to pop out a little as it turns to engage the front pulley - if it has trouble popping out it will resist the turning motion. A little grease around it's hold down wouldn't hurt either (I forget exactly what it looks like)
I had trouble with mine first because the shaft wasn't all the way through and and I didn't have the clip down far enough to hold it all in where it should be. Then the main spring didn't want to seat, part of it had slipped up and was binding the main gear. I just had to take it back apart and be extra mindful that everything was still all the way down and in place before I went to put the clip on.
It seemed like one of those things that's a lot easier if you have an extra hand, but is doable with two - it's just a little cumbersome.
Also don't forget the new starter bendix support bushing, if you didn't put one in the new CVT cover.
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 18, 2013 21:17:14 GMT -5
If the air intake hose or a tube on it comes loose, it will make noise similar to exhaust noise, maybe you disturbed something.
If it's pulling more air than it should, it can make it run lean and backfire too.
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 17, 2013 12:22:51 GMT -5
I put NCY clutches in my 50 and 150 and didn't have any problems with them. I just got the standard upgrade one you get with a CVT kit, but they sell more aggressive ones too. I agree with alley that some of them dont have much more pad on them than stock, so look for one with the largest friction pads you can. When my clutch broke after putting in tighter springs, i was not surprised to see that the arms were made of 'pot metal' which would be likened to 'hot dogs' of the metal world. I'm sure a decent HP clutch does a little better than that... This is a gerneric mystery performance clutch from a popular online store - and it does look like a regular clutch with tighter springs in it. The friction pads on this one are pretty big though.  These are a couple high end performance clutches - as you can see, there is definitly a lot more to these.   |
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