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Post by ltdhpp on Aug 7, 2013 11:27:06 GMT -5
My 150 absolutely woke right up after exhaust and a re-jet. If you don't like the noise, get a muffler with a removable silencer - both I've had were not too loud.
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Post by ltdhpp on Aug 5, 2013 17:08:41 GMT -5
I'm having a similar problem... mine will idle a bit longer but will eventually die on its own and takes a while to re-start. It doesn't want to rev up unless I choke out the intake tube...
I was lucky it got me home!
It acts the same with the stock CDI, and I'm not loosing spark that I can tell. Checked for vacuum leaks with a propane torch, no dice. It stalled quick when flowing propane at the air filter... The carb is squeaky clean inside.
I didn't check compression but it is definitely pulling air in where it should very very well...
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Post by ltdhpp on Aug 5, 2013 12:15:32 GMT -5
HHMMM I think I'll give a yellow one a try....
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Post by ltdhpp on Aug 3, 2013 10:28:33 GMT -5
I was a big Devo fan, too, back in the day. ;D You know they put a new album out a couple years ago, right? It's not bad... true to their roots. |
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Post by ltdhpp on Aug 3, 2013 8:50:21 GMT -5
DX Do not ride with the muffler unsupported! Mine was doomed from the start being cheap junk, but this happened to mine WITH support at the far end of the can. Vibrations are a parts worst enemy, and if they resonate and harmonize, they can do serious damage very quickly.  I have dual rear shocks and was able to make a more proper mount for mine with some bar brace from the hardware store. Like the old guy said, incorporating a triangle shape will make it very strong   |
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Post by ltdhpp on Aug 3, 2013 8:32:54 GMT -5
Don't get a cheap trunk! Both the ones that came with my scoots didn't even close right and the plastic was cheap and brittle. Anything I put in them bounce and rattled around like crazy over every bump.
That one looks like you are going to have to drill your own holes in the bottom to use that mounting plate (at least it comes with a plate...) Do you ride 2-up much? That 'backrest' on it does not look very comfortable!
Also, make sure you dont get a trunk made for a big-frame scooter, those are HUGE and might look funny on yours, lol!!!
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Post by ltdhpp on Aug 3, 2013 8:17:45 GMT -5
That's the one!
I found a couple reads that mentioned a bad connection making a coil go bad, but not in a come-and-go way...
I did discover that the little brass piece just screws into the boot. This one is either so chewed up or so poorly made, I did not even recognize that it had threads on it at first (and I look at threaded fasteners all day...) Looking down into the boot with a light, all i see is a burnt black empty hole! ...from all the arcing I guess...
Out of curiosity, I unscrewed that brass piece from the stock coil wire, and it looks like a beautiful piece of ignition with well cut threads and all.
I definitely feel like an exception to the norm about how long those orange coils last...
And of course its been raining since last night, and its not hot enough to not care... gggrrrrr...
And yeah, this incident has led me to ask the Honda dealer how much that used 250 reflex is I drive by all the time (too much) and had me eyeballing a couple CL Burgmans I found for under 2 grand...
But not to worry, I'm so cheap I will be making valiant attempts to fix this - it would take something huge and/or having to push it home a few times (for non obvious reasons) to make me shell out money for a Japanese machine.
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Post by ltdhpp on Aug 2, 2013 18:05:08 GMT -5
"no, I don't want to sell it, I just got it running good" I said to the guy as I topped off the tank... So... can a coil overheat and quit if it has a bad connection to the plug?? lol... About 2/3 through my long-way-home loop around town, she putters out at the end of a fairly long uphill grade... just like it would when I had the original fuel pump. In a similar way, after sitting for a bit and cranking it for about as long as it takes to fill the fuel bowl, she started back up. Repeat this 5 or 6 times for the rest of the 4 miles home, each time different lengths between. Half of those times it sputtered and ran poorly, the other half it ran fine, seemingly not caring about the grade or throttle position. Most notably, it ran 100% fine the last entire mile home, including up one of the steepest hills in my town. I was about to have to decide whether or not I wanted to try to push this thing up Hill street or Cranehill road, lol...! But she took me on home. I'm not looking forward to trying to diagnose this, since she will start back up and run... While fooling around looking for loose hoses and vacuum leaks, she stalled twice for no apparent reason but started right back up... I suspected the gas i just put in, so I drained the tank and put some fresh in I had just gotten for the mower. After this she didnt even want to idle anymore, BUT this is when I realized the brass tip had pulled out of the spark plug boot while I was fooling around before the fuel drain  I can't even tell how this piece is was supposed to stay in the boot  the clip is to hold it to the plug... I doubt I'd be so lucky for this to be the only problem... I did notice that the coil was loose from it's mount, allowing it to wiggle and possibly vibrate while going down the road... This is probably because the cheap orange coil has no metal insert in it's bolt hole... I said F-it for the night once I saw the wire boot came apart. Now to find the original when I get home... Attachments:
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Post by ltdhpp on Aug 2, 2013 17:35:05 GMT -5
That would probably blow the fuse. if not fry something.... Pull the spark plug wire off, stick a thin screwdriver in the plug boot and lay the screwdriver shaft within a 1/4 inch of something metal. You will see/hear a spark while cranking if you have a good coil/wire and your motor is grounded. If you're still not sure, stick your pinky in it and rest your hand on the valve cover (unless you have a pacemaker, heart condition, high blood pressure, etc etc) |
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Post by ltdhpp on Aug 1, 2013 11:13:30 GMT -5
I had a buddy re-do an old machine with Linux mandriva and it has been flawless for a couple years now. Only time it wanted to crap out was because the aluminum heat sink/cooling fins behind the fan for the motherboard were completely clogged with dust!
Its a good idea to blow out your case every 6 months or so...
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Post by ltdhpp on Aug 1, 2013 8:00:10 GMT -5
The large torque spring does not affect when/how the clutch engages. Be sure not to get any grease where the belt rides!
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 31, 2013 17:17:43 GMT -5
The 50cc Kymco I just fixed had trouble starting until I put the thick rubber CVT cover gasket back on.
But, but my Chinese 50 and 150 did not miss their paper gaskets.
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 31, 2013 17:11:11 GMT -5
Did you replace the bell? I heard they can stretch when they get hot.
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 30, 2013 12:07:06 GMT -5
LED bulb replacements don't work that well because LED's need to be in a lense assembly designed for them. I've yet to see an LED turn/stop bulb replacement that can bee seen from a distance when direct sunlight is shining on it.
I like the idea of LED headlight bulb replacements, but ones Ive seen draw more power than the stock bulbs...
I have some LED flashlights with just a single LED that absolutely light up the night, but again they are in a lense/housing made for that LED. Expecting a cluster of LEDs to fill, reflect and project light out of a housing made for incandescent is asking a lot.
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 30, 2013 11:53:13 GMT -5
Wait, you are running a BBK with stock exhaust??? Stock exhaust is restrictive to a stock motor...
I'm not experienced with BBK's but I'd guess they don't play well with stock exhaust.
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