|
|
Post by pmatulew on Sept 20, 2013 17:39:11 GMT -5
 reference diagram: They are all pretty much like this with minor variations. The wheels use straight roller bearings. (part #3) An inner ring, an outer ring, and a bunch of little tootsie rolls in between. Plus or minus a plastic cover to keep the dirt out and the grease in. The bearing on each side is pressed in to a pocket on each side of the wheel. The outer rings turns with the wheel. The inner ring is held by the axle bolt. Dropped in the center of the wheel between the two bearings is a carefully sized bushing (part #2) that fills the gap in between so that the inner rings touch from side to side so you can torque down the axle nut and not squish things out of place. There is also a spacer on either side (part #6 and in this diagram the fat section of the axle) that hold the center ring away from the forks. If everything is correctly in place, when you torque down the axle nut the stacked pieces clamp the inner rings tight without putting any load on the outer rings or the tootsie roll rollers. If your bearings are binding you need to figure out why. It is common practice with new builds to overtighten the axle nut to ensure that the bearings are completely seated in their pockets and then loosen and torque properly. It sounds like you already have a feel for what the proper torque should be. Usually between 50 and 80 foot pounds depending on the diameter of the axle bolt. You can remove the brake caliper and the pads temporarily to eliminate that variable until you get it figured out. |
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Sept 20, 2013 17:12:53 GMT -5
Throttle cable binding some where between the handlebars and the carburetor? Take the nose off and turn the bars back and forth to see what's going on.
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Sept 19, 2013 12:53:18 GMT -5
More visibility is always better. I vote for running lights.
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Sept 19, 2013 12:47:31 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Timming
by: pmatulew - Sept 19, 2013 5:48:05 GMT -5
Post by pmatulew on Sept 19, 2013 5:48:05 GMT -5
If you had a stroboscopic timing light and were so inclined you could hook it up and see that the "F" mark is lined up when the spark plug fires. You could also watch it advance and retard from the reference point as the RPM's change.
Back when motors had mechanical points and condensors and spinning distributors, that's how it was done. Didn't used to be no schmansy electronics.
Fiddling with the timing relationship between the crankshaft and the camshaft is a no no. Little to gain and much to lose.
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Sept 19, 2013 5:32:37 GMT -5
If you're liking that chrome cover be sure to give it extra special care on a regular basis. The shiny chrome layer is very very thin over the underlay coats.
I don't know if BMS specs a higher quality manufacturing process or not, but the chrome cover on my Lance badged Znen had completely gone to heck by time I acquired my scoot. I had to blast it all off back to the base aluminum to make it look better.
Another question: Are the carbon fiber parts really carbon fiber or just decals?
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Sept 18, 2013 7:03:20 GMT -5
The engine code is usually stamped or etched into the crankcase. No way to put the wrong stickers on. Well maybe the wrong stickers on the body... (X)
"BN" is for Benneng. Those are the Znen engines. I have one in my ZNEN 150-F8 with 12" wheels. I've had it all apart except for the crankcase and so far the top end and the CVT parts are all standard stuff. The kick start shaft is longer than standard though because of the style CVT cover they used on my model. Supposedly there's something different about the crankshaft but I'm not sure what exactly.
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Sept 17, 2013 11:47:45 GMT -5
Had to happen sooner or later. The Black Swan left me standing by the side of the road. I tried a few things with the limited tool set I had at hand but no joy. I think my fuel pump finally gave up. Ordered a Mikuni DF-44 this morning.
Oh well, at least the weather wasn't too bad while I was waiting for the missus to come pick me up.
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Sept 17, 2013 11:42:44 GMT -5
Oh definitely! Good news is always cause for celebration. Sometimes it's just the peace of mind to be able to say, "Oh that noise? It's nothing to worry about."
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Sept 16, 2013 19:50:13 GMT -5
Well, that explains that. I expect they put the an access panel over the variator because the removing the body work is so involved. --> www.mediafire.com/download/4k7t463jovyx095/Manuale+Officina+-+Honda+Sh-%40-Pantheon-Dylan+125-150.pdfI know, wrong language, but the pictures are pretty. Page 13: Remove the cover of the transmission. Unscrew the central nut while holding the drive shaft with a wrench. The half-pulley and remove the belt released. Remove the other half pulley block with ramp and roller bushing. Unscrew the nut of the centrifugal clutch Page 44 has the exploded view of the cover. Are you sure it won't come off without removing all the body work? The clutch bell is splined to the output gears so that shouldn't be moving unless the rear wheel is, so that's out. If the belt was extra snug for some reason and dragging the inner part of the clutch around you would think it would be more obvious where the noise was coming from. |
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Sept 16, 2013 11:54:21 GMT -5
"The knee bone's connected to the...."  How are you accessing the variator nut if you can't get the transmission cover off? Maybe we have a terminology disconnect. It may also depend on which type of motor you have. Which model scoot is this? On most GY6's the CVT "transmission" is on the left side and can only be accessed by removing the entire cover. (unless you have some sort of mini access panel that you can stick a wrench through?) The engines rotate forward, (anti-clockwise from the left) to drive the variator pulley. The "transmission" consists of two pulley assemblies and a belt The reduction gearing "transmission" is in a small compartment near the rear wheel and has a couple metal gears and layshafts. None of that should be moving while rotating the engine by hand. Which "transmission" case are you referring to? The sprag clutch shouldn't make any noise when turned in the correct direction. Certainly not like this. Unless it's completely jammed and you're constantly driving the starter motor. (Hard to imagine it would run that way.) As best I can tell the sound is either squeaky or grating, and relatively high pitched. Metallic? Does the motor run this way? If it's squeaky could it be the belt rubbing on the pulleys? Could there be something floating around inside the CVT cover that the variator pulley is rubbing on? If it's grating, could there be an issue with the timing chain? Maybe the guides are worn through? Whatever it is it can't be good. |
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Sept 16, 2013 5:38:31 GMT -5
Doesn't matter whether it's a scooter or a motorcycle or an automobile, They all use the same sort of plastic for trim. The only thing you can do is keep it out of the sun. Sort of counter intuitive for a motor vehicle that has to operate outdoors. Also storing it indoors will add years to it's life.
Mothers Back-to-Black is what I use. It will rejuvenate it for a while but it dries out eventually and needs to be re-applied. It's also oily and collects dirt.
If you ask around at the local body shop or detailer they may have a professional grade product but it will likely be a spray on clear coat that will change the appearance and may flake off over time.
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Sept 16, 2013 5:37:53 GMT -5
It's the stater gears and the starter. You're turning against the direction of the one way sprag clutch and forcing the starter to turn.
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Sept 14, 2013 5:34:06 GMT -5
Yes, not meant to be turned at all. Line up the arrows and push down to snap it in place. Turn the key and it should pop up for easy removal.
If you twist the cap at all it will get jammed and you'll have to fight it to get it off again.
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Sept 13, 2013 5:27:54 GMT -5
www.rammount.com/There are enough options to cover anything you can dream up. Regardless of where you buy them, you'll pay a little more upfront as these are USA made. but you'll be way happier in the long run as these are awesome.
|
|
