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Post by pmatulew on Sept 23, 2013 7:25:44 GMT -5
Yep, my leak is around the timing chain seam. Oh trust me, by attempt #3 I stoned all the mating surfaces and have as much RTV on there as I dared without having it clog up the oil passages. Maybe it is micro cracks in the casting. It isn't losing much oil. Just enough to be messy and collect dirt.
The original poster believes he has a leak lower down in the case halves. That's much less common and would be a bigger chore to separate and re-seal.
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 23, 2013 7:02:40 GMT -5
While I was replacing my fuel pump this weekend I did a quick duct tape install of a tachometer that just arrived Saturday. This mornings commute to work was very enlightening. Running downhill at full song I'm spinning over 9 grand and still wishing for more top end speed. That ain't good.  On the flat wide open it's between 8 and 8.5. The chinometer says 50-55 and I know that's lying. Any sort of hill and it grunts down to between 7.5 and 8. I'm guessing that's the power band of the engine. I predict slider experimentation in my future. |
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 23, 2013 5:47:25 GMT -5
No worries. Scoots are relatively lightweight and have a low center of gravity. Easy to toss around and balance. I'm 5'5" with a 30" inseam and have been riding an 800 pound touring motorcycle with a 30.5" seat height. Same deal in that I can only just get tip toes on the ground or the ball of my foot on one side. That leaves a very narrow margin for error. Have I dropped it? Oh yeah, I've lost count.
You just need to be careful and be very aware of rolling to a stop in a very upright and balanced position.
Lowering the suspension isn't advisable as most scoots already have marginal suspension travel.
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 22, 2013 18:12:26 GMT -5
Back to a question from the original post. The big case with the belt in it doesn't have any lube. But, the small compartment in the back with the gears in it does, (or at least should). but it's only filled and inch or two at the bottom. So you may or may not see any through the hole where the clutch shaft was. 100ml is usually all you need.
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 22, 2013 17:59:57 GMT -5
I meticulously rebuilt the top end of a Znen 150 at 1000 miles and it still has a drip after pulling the engine 3 times and re-sealing it. I gave up and learned to live with it.
You'll have to decide if pursuing the warranty is a viable option depending on where and how you bought it. You may just be able to re-torque the case bolts to get it to stop. Or maybe not.
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 22, 2013 17:55:07 GMT -5
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 22, 2013 17:41:06 GMT -5
Yup! there's the inner race! Bwahhahahaha!  One sad little ball all by it's lonesome!  I'm impressed in that I can honestly say I've never ever seen bearings completely fail like that. Or seen anyone (DPSO) completely ignore the noise that must have been making before the balls all decided to go their separate ways. Fair bet that all the bearings in the rear end are done and will need to be replaced. The DPSO must not have replaced the shipping oil with fresh gear oil. Pull the wheel. Separate the housing. Chase down all those balls and hope that the gear teeth are all still in good shape. Save the parts when you strip it down. Any local bearing supply place should be able to match the bearings by measuring the dimensions if you can't find an online package somewhere. --> www.partsforscooters.com/search-results?keywords=bearings |
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 22, 2013 7:02:39 GMT -5
If you were able to pull the clutch shaft right out without further disassembly, is it possible that the bearing in video 8 completely failed allowing the shaft to come out center race and all? Or do you think "someone" was already in there and the bearing is missing?
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 22, 2013 6:55:46 GMT -5
Mmmmmm....the cheap fix and the DPSO. p)
BTDT D8
Even so, is you're willing and able to put a "little" time and money in to it...
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 21, 2013 21:41:55 GMT -5
Engine off, turning the rear wheel by hand, the belt shouldn't be moving at all. The wheel, the rear gearing and the clutch bell are all that should be moving. So you might hear gear noise and maybe the clutch bell whirring. If you have drum brakes in the back the shoes are probably dragging slightly and maybe a rubber dust seal inside the drum. You can back off the brake cable adjuster nut temporarily to loosen the shoes from rubbing.
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 21, 2013 7:52:02 GMT -5
When you're starting it cold, don't give it gas. By cracking the throttle you're actually giving it air which is counteracting what the choke is trying to do.
If it won't idle indefinitely when warm then something is off. Either too rich or too lean. Will need more info to decide. May also just need the idle speed tweaked up a bit. If the idle is too low they tend to load up (too rich, not enough air).
Electrical and body work problems are more model specific. Will need more info.
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 21, 2013 7:32:36 GMT -5
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 21, 2013 7:27:16 GMT -5
"Back in the day", cars with Rochesters got about 11 miles to the gallon on a good day. They also had cavernous and poorly designed intake manifolds. Extra shots of gas were a spit in the wind hoping that some of it would actually reach the intake valve.
Flushing more fuel down the drain is not what scooters are about. Our small displacement engines respond quickly enough to rpm changes that the added complexity of an accelerator pump is generally unnecessary.
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 20, 2013 18:28:09 GMT -5
When it's my butt hanging in the breeze, loose is no good. It has to be torqued down properly or the stresses from cornering will twist things out of place and cause potentially catastrophic failures.
When it's your butt, I guess you can make your own decision.
Is the center spacer in place? Is the speedo puck sitting squarely on it's....uh....whatchamacallit. Sometimes the speedo puck has to be rotated to a certain spot in relation to the fork to sit right? Is the spacer on the other side in place?
As a last resort are the bearings themselves okay? You should be able to turn the center ring with you fingers with little or no resistance,
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 20, 2013 17:49:04 GMT -5
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