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Post by Deleted on Sept 20, 2013 12:43:55 GMT -5
Both front and rear axle bolts were on very tight. Front wheel barely moved ! backed it off and retightened a bit but not sure how tight its supposed to be? Same with the rear. backed it off too and retightened to what i thought was a reasonable amount of force.
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Post by oldchopperguy on Sept 20, 2013 13:09:59 GMT -5
I have not worked on scooter wheels, but I'm sure they are similar to motorcycle wheels... The axle bolts or nuts must be plenty tight (like lug-nuts) on a car, BUT tightening them shouldn't effect the free-turning of the wheels themselves. The wheel-bearings should be free of slop, but NOT tight enough to impede their rotation. The tightness of the axle bolts shouldn't change the bearings. Usually, WHEEL-BEARINGS can be properly adjusted simply "finger-tight" which won't cut it on the axle!
Being brand-new, it's possible your disk brakes are "dragging" just a tad. My old Xingyue was like that, but the perforated disks polished off the pads quickly, so the wheels turned freely.
If in fact, your BEARINGS actually are tightening up as the axle bolts are snugged down, you need to address that. On cycles I've worked on, I'd adjust the wheel-bearings first, with my fingers, then tighten the axle nuts and that had no effect on the bearings. Again, sorry that I have no knowledge of the scooter wheels setup, but it must be similar to other vehicles, allowing the axle to be tightened without cramping the wheel bearings. Somebody with scooter wheel/axle setups PLEASE chime in here, so he doesn't harm this swell new ride...
By the way, THAT is one SWEET scoot! Looks sorta like a 50 with a 150 motor and big wheels! The ULTIMATE factory 150 hotrod for sure! The styling is JUST right!
Get those wheel-bearings right though, you don't want to burn them up. Long ago, my buddy had a Ducati 850 and he got the front wheel-bearings too tight. They got white-hot on the freeway and snapped the hub right out of the mag wheel at 80 mph. He did about 20 "end-over-end" things, into a gravel pit... And all he was wearing was shorts. We were NOT safety-minded in those days. He survived, but I think he's STILL picking gravel out various body parts... LOL!
DANG! That is a GREAT looking ride!
Enjoy it safely!
Leo in Texas
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 20, 2013 17:39:11 GMT -5
 reference diagram: They are all pretty much like this with minor variations. The wheels use straight roller bearings. (part #3) An inner ring, an outer ring, and a bunch of little tootsie rolls in between. Plus or minus a plastic cover to keep the dirt out and the grease in. The bearing on each side is pressed in to a pocket on each side of the wheel. The outer rings turns with the wheel. The inner ring is held by the axle bolt. Dropped in the center of the wheel between the two bearings is a carefully sized bushing (part #2) that fills the gap in between so that the inner rings touch from side to side so you can torque down the axle nut and not squish things out of place. There is also a spacer on either side (part #6 and in this diagram the fat section of the axle) that hold the center ring away from the forks. If everything is correctly in place, when you torque down the axle nut the stacked pieces clamp the inner rings tight without putting any load on the outer rings or the tootsie roll rollers. If your bearings are binding you need to figure out why. It is common practice with new builds to overtighten the axle nut to ensure that the bearings are completely seated in their pockets and then loosen and torque properly. It sounds like you already have a feel for what the proper torque should be. Usually between 50 and 80 foot pounds depending on the diameter of the axle bolt. You can remove the brake caliper and the pads temporarily to eliminate that variable until you get it figured out. |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 20, 2013 17:42:36 GMT -5
If I loosen the nut some it freed up.
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 20, 2013 17:49:04 GMT -5
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 20, 2013 18:28:09 GMT -5
When it's my butt hanging in the breeze, loose is no good. It has to be torqued down properly or the stresses from cornering will twist things out of place and cause potentially catastrophic failures.
When it's your butt, I guess you can make your own decision.
Is the center spacer in place? Is the speedo puck sitting squarely on it's....uh....whatchamacallit. Sometimes the speedo puck has to be rotated to a certain spot in relation to the fork to sit right? Is the spacer on the other side in place?
As a last resort are the bearings themselves okay? You should be able to turn the center ring with you fingers with little or no resistance,
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Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2013 7:48:43 GMT -5
If I spin the tire I should hear some noise right? Im thinking its the stock Bando belt that Im feeling. It is similar to my T3 when i replaced the old china belt with a Bando...will it calm down as the belt break in?
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 21, 2013 21:41:55 GMT -5
Engine off, turning the rear wheel by hand, the belt shouldn't be moving at all. The wheel, the rear gearing and the clutch bell are all that should be moving. So you might hear gear noise and maybe the clutch bell whirring. If you have drum brakes in the back the shoes are probably dragging slightly and maybe a rubber dust seal inside the drum. You can back off the brake cable adjuster nut temporarily to loosen the shoes from rubbing.
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