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Post by arguck on Jun 13, 2013 14:25:50 GMT -5
This has been happening for a few summers now, and it's driving me nuts. The electric start on my 2008 150cc Lance Vintage will work for a month or so and then stop and be dead for a few weeks and then work again and then not. Sometimes I'll go screw around with some connections and it'll work again but usually it's just a waiting game. So I just get used to kick starting for a while. The one constant that I DO seem to have is that if I accidentally hit the run switch to the off position and then turn it back to run, the electric start DEFINITELY won't work for a while. I've dug around underneath the front panel a little bit found a connection that seemed to be loose but it's not doing anything and honestly I'm not even positive its the right connection to the starter, since all those wires are in a sleeve and I have no idea what comes from what. I feel like that run switch HAS to be involved some how, but just don't know enough. Do you guys have ANY ideas at all? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
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Post by scootnwinn on Jun 13, 2013 14:30:32 GMT -5
Have you tried jumping the terminals on the solenoid or applying power to the trigger wire on the solenoid directly when you have this trouble. Doing so and posting the results will likely result in a solution...
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Post by scootnwinn on Jun 13, 2013 14:33:58 GMT -5
just in case your solenoid looks something like this Follow the big positive wire off the battery and you will find it...
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Post by arguck on Jun 13, 2013 16:21:06 GMT -5
Thanks so much for your reply. Please forgive my less than "weekend mechanic" knowledge, I might need just a little more help understanding your troubleshooting suggestion. I've seen the solenoid placed on the right side of my scooter placed under the seat. (At least I think I have, I've traced that wire before) As far as jumping the terminals, I thinking your asking my to essentially make a physical connection between the two metal points on the head of the solenoid. Can I just do that with any 12 gauge wire lying around? And then for the applying power to the trigger wire, my guess is that your saying to try to take power directly from the battery to the far side of the solenoid. Is ANY of this correct? Cause I could be WAY off. Thanks so much.
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Post by hank on Jun 13, 2013 16:33:51 GMT -5
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 13, 2013 17:04:17 GMT -5
Check the RED THICK WIRE ON THE BATTERY make sure it is on good and making good contact. Then Follow that wire to the SOLENOID and make sure it is also making good and tight on the terminal and it is clean. The Check the other MIRE on the SOLENOID make sure that is tight and nice and clean. Then follow that WIRE TO THE STARTER and make sure it is connected to the STARTER nice and tight and CLEAN.
The way it works is thie: 1. The Battery sends voltage to the KEY SWITCH. 2. KEY ON it sends voltage to all your instruments, some lights AND to your 2 BRAKE SWITCHS. 3. When you SQUEEZE the brakes(EITHER ONE): a. it sends voltage to the SOLENOID. b. it sends voltage to the BRAKE LIGHTS and they should come on. 4. When you PUSH the START BUTTON is GROUNDS the SOLENOID to COMPLETE the CIRCUIT and MAKES CONTACT INSIDE with the TWO TERMINALS you see on the outside and allows the VOLTAGE from the BATTERY to be passed to the TERMINAL that is connected to the STARTER.
A. If when you push the START BUTTON the SOLENOID MAKES a CLICKING SOUND it is either a WEAK BATTERY or a BAD SOLENOID.
The RUN OFF AND ON SWITCH(KILLSWITCH) has nothing to do with the electric start what that does is GROUNDS the CDI and in that case it will not allow the CDI to PASS voltage to the COIL to FIRE the plug.
So check if TOUCHING BOTH TERMINALS on the SOLENOID WILL SPIN the starter. You can use anything a PIECE OF WIRE, PLIERS, SCREWDRIVER whatever, it may spark so be ready for that, don't get a heartattack on us ;D Alleyoop
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Post by arguck on Jun 13, 2013 19:33:19 GMT -5
You guys all rock. Very helpful. So I checked all connections and they are all tight with no corrosion at the battery or solenoid. I put a jumper between the solenoid points and she fired right up. No issues at all. Also when this happens there is usually no noise from the starter or solenoid at all. Like the button isn't doing a thing.
Does that help pin point things at all? Thanks so much for all the help!
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Post by joaoeu on Jun 13, 2013 19:43:05 GMT -5
So I just get used to kick starting for a while. Hey, at least you can claim you exercise when you ride your scooter.
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Post by shalomrider on Jun 13, 2013 20:06:13 GMT -5
howdy, i'm usually ignorant also but i would suggest that what you are saying about no clicking when you push the start button indicates either a fault in that switch or loose connection there or the brake or sidestand relays being at fault. sidestand issue might be found by looking near the sidestand under the scoot for a switch with wires that changes when the sidestand is deployed and stowed. perhaps just pulling harder on the brake lever might solve the problem and if so you could adjust that.
lotsa miles and smiles to ya ken
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Post by arguck on Jun 13, 2013 20:25:09 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply ken! Unfortunately my scoot doesn't have a sidestand relay. She starts whether its up or down. Thanks for the suggestion!
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Post by arguck on Jun 15, 2013 10:49:13 GMT -5
Hey guys, just curious if you saw reply #6 and if you have any ideas at all. Thanks so much!
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Post by scootnwinn on Jun 15, 2013 16:01:08 GMT -5
Check your brake switches and the starter button. Also the connection of the small wires to the solenoid. It's one of those
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 15, 2013 16:10:17 GMT -5
When you turn the KEY ON and SQUEEZE the BRAKE(EITHER ONE) try both, DO YOUR STOP LIGHTS COME ON? Alleyoop
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Post by arguck on Jun 16, 2013 12:30:45 GMT -5
scootnwinn alleyoop AHHHHHHH I think we found an issue if not the issue. When I squeeze either brake neither of them light up the stop lights. I'm assuming those are the culprit. Do you folks know what I need to replace to get those fixed? Obviously I shouldn't be riding until this is taken care of. Thanks for the continued assistance.
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Post by arguck on Jun 18, 2013 16:39:25 GMT -5
Sorry guys, Hope the newbie isn't being annoying!
Just curious if there is something else I can test in order to determine whether it's the switch, wiring or something else that might be causing my lack of brake lights. I do own a multimeter if that is a necessary too,l I just don't know what to look for/test. Thanks!
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