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Post by bigmac on Oct 6, 2017 23:47:37 GMT -5
Yeah, hopefully it'll be problem free for quite some time. Thanks for the help.
One question though. When the hole in the center of your variator got worn enough to wobble on the bushing, did it make any noise and if so what did it sound like?
As I said, I checked mine but it didn't appear loose enough to get any real wobbling going on. It fits over the bushing plenty loose enough to slide side-to-side without hindrance but maybe it's slightly too loose and could have a slight wobble. That's the thing though, I never felt what a brand new variator and slide bushing feel like together so maybe it's suppose to fit tighter than mine and I wouldn't know. Just like the "v" guides. I thought mine were okay until I got the new ones and noticed the difference.
What I find interesting about the "v" guides is that the old and new ones actually look identical until you check the grooves on their outer edges. The grooves are so deep on the old ones that when slid onto the retainer, they barely stay on whereas the grooves on the new ones are just deep enough to fit the retainer, making them stay on very tightly.
Not sure if all the wear normally occurs inside the outer grooves of the "v" guides but if not, maybe that's how mine managed to create a noise like the one in the video.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Oct 7, 2017 2:12:33 GMT -5
Well the first time it happened, I heard a metallic sound coming from the CVT and I would say that the CVT sounded a bit louder in general. The whole variator was shot though, that’s the problem. I mean the “v” guides were obliterated, the posts that the “v” guides ride on were basically gone, along with the inner diameter of the variator worn out severely. So honestly I can’t really tell you how it would sound from just the inner diameter being worn— singled out from the rest of the massacre. See here I made a thread about it awhile back: itistheride.boards.net/thread/7749/texas-variator-massacreNot all “v” guide sets are made the same either. At one time, I owned 3 slightly different sets (3x3) that each set fit differently, and visually each set had a different appearance. I like to have spare sets to have on hand. I made a thread about that, too. Here’s that thread: itistheride.boards.net/thread/8396/all-variator-guides-same |
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Post by bigmac on Oct 9, 2017 15:45:56 GMT -5
I guess I'll need to replace my variator if I want to find out if doing so would make it quieter since the difference in condition is like night and day between the one I have and the one you had. I have a gy6 service manual that includes all the maximum allowable wear limits of parts but I'd need a micrometer to know if my variator and the sleeve it slides on are at or beyond them.
That issue you mentioned about the "v" guides is a pet peeve I have with these Chinese scooters. I want replacement parts that, well, you know, replace the worn-out ones. Not entirely sure what the deal is. I assume I'm getting copies of copies of copies and minor spec changes occurred somewhere down the line. I buy a part and get some 3rd generation Chinese copy of it which isn't quite the same as the original anymore. I sometimes wonder if that's why there are two different cylinder heads for the same engine.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Oct 11, 2017 1:06:25 GMT -5
That issue you mentioned about the "v" guides is a pet peeve I have with these Chinese scooters. I want replacement parts that, well, you know, replace the worn-out ones. Not entirely sure what the deal is. I assume I'm getting copies of copies of copies and minor spec changes occurred somewhere down the line. I buy a part and get some 3rd generation Chinese copy of it which isn't quite the same as the original anymore. I sometimes wonder if that's why there are two different cylinder heads for the same engine. Some of the parts differences could be because they are made in different factories. That reminds me of a time when I rebuilt the engine replacing the crank, and the top end while I was at it. I got the crank in and the case halves back together with a new gasket and sealer and when I went to put the oil pump gear back on afterwards, the teeth on the sprocket (drives oil pump gear) of the new crank wouldn't match up to the teeth on the oil pump gear. The old crank had a 22 tooth sprocket (first I ever heard of that) while the new one had a 16 tooth sprocket. At the time, that was the first I'd ever heard of it. You could look for a 139qmb crank on all the popular part sites, and they only had one style of crank and it was the "common" 16T crank--and they weren't even listed as 16T, as if there was only one kind. The same one everyone else stocked. I think I found maybe two sites eventually that had the 22T, at least here in the states. Neither of them were vendors of this forum, although I know at least one of the vendors here now eventually stocked both, the 16T and the 22T. It definitely took a lot more searching than usual, especially since the two sites weren't places I've ordered from before. It's not a big deal now, but at the time it was just one of those things that came "out of the blue". One of those things that were never mentioned in scooter forums, so it took me by surprise-- especially since I rebuilt it once before. I'm not gonna lie, I was pretty p'd off in the moment when I first realized the problem. Of course all I had to do to resolve the issue was swap the gears off, but in the heat of the moment with the crank in the case already I didn't even think of it. I will say though, getting the gear off the crank was easy. Getting the gear on was a bit trickier and is something I'd recommend doing BEFORE it's in the case already. That's one thing I do is warn people when they say they are replacing the crank. Count the teeth there are differences, and even the oil pump/gear setup is different depending on the crank sprocket tooth count, lol. So it's not like I could've just swapped the oil pump and gear out itself, I had to swap the sprockets. It makes me wonder if there is some sort of code or marking on the engine somewhere that will tell you whether the 22T or 16T is installed, because the case is slightly different in the oil pump area. |
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Post by bigmac on Oct 14, 2017 21:07:53 GMT -5
I'll have to remember that if I ever need to replace the crankshaft and decide to go through the trouble of doing it.
I think the baffles in my muffler are falling apart and are even making weird noises as exhaust gasses are pushed through. Forgot what they're called, but there are these instruments which are basically hollow wooden pipes with rice or something similar to rice in them and you tilt them side-to-side to play them. I heard they're commonly used in rain dances to simulate the sound of falling rain. Well, my exhaust can be played like one of those instruments. Just tilt it side-to-side and listen to the soothing sounds of loose pieces of baffles moving from one side to the other.
I'm kind of worried about running into different versions if I order a new one though. Either the bolt holes won't lineup or the exhaust pipe will not meetup with the cylinder head port.
The noise is annoying enough that I'd like to get it replaced soon but it's not too bad compared to the noise I just fixed. That noise always made me think something was rubbing against my back tire. In fact, that's what I thought at first. There is a small plastic fender mounted just behind the cooling fan cover and I thought it had come loose and was making contact with the tire when I first heard it.
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