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Post by dickyh on Sept 27, 2015 6:30:22 GMT -5
From the guide I read, it says 8lb on the 2 that hold the head to the cylinder and 13lb on the 4 long ones. I did in a cross-cross pattern as instructed and I was being very careful only a little at a time. BTW, I stopped on the side ones cause I was sure that if I kept going I was going to snap them off.
The wrench is supposed to click when it is at the right setting, correct?
So now my question is do I really need to torque them? I usually have a pretty good feel on tightness. The thing I don't like about the torque wrench is that you can't really feel how tight they are getting. I borrowed it from a race car mechanic, so I assumed it was working properly, and triple checked the setting.
The other question I have is if I remove the rocker assembly, I could probably switch out the broken stud, as it snapped right at the top. I really don't want to take it all the way down if I don't have to. getting the piston in the cylinder took a lot of work as I didn't want to mess up the rings or the cylinder, so I was being very careful and not forcing anything. And I don't have another set of gaskets.
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 27, 2015 8:43:59 GMT -5
A Ftlb torque wrench at that low of a setting will "snap" very little, more like a Gentle Click or Bumb you'll feel.
My two Torque wrenches need be stored backed off to Zero or the mfg say I could jack it up.
Stick the thing on a car lug or something to get the feel.
Should be using a Inch Pound Wrench as it would give you better feel and Not Break Studs So Easy
What your doing is other than mating the Two Surfaces together you are Stretching the Studs.
The Studs can only be torqued (stretched) a few times before there junk, low quality maybe a one shot deal.
You Really need to use a torque wrench as I'm afraid your going to Draw up the Metal around the Studs by over Tightening Both the Stud and the Cylinder Head Nut and have Base Gasket Sealing Problems. You've already broke one.
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 27, 2015 8:47:56 GMT -5
That Clamping surface needed torqued Evenly i.e. criss/cross like tightening a Car Rim on a Car.
So as to Not Warp a Head, with only Four Studs is a lesser chance but hoping for the best
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Post by dickyh on Sept 30, 2015 5:12:16 GMT -5
Well, the engine is finally back together and the scoot runs like a top. Thanks to ALL who helped me through it all. Glad to know there are people out there willing to help.
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 30, 2015 8:00:11 GMT -5
Great. Glad to hear it  |
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Post by JoeyBee on Sept 30, 2015 8:54:12 GMT -5
dickyh... That's great news!! It's awesome when we get another scooter back on the road. I hope the experience doesn't make you hesitant on doing mechanical work. Everyone here have made mistakes, and had to fix them. That's part of what makes scooters so fun. Replacement parts are very cheap.
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Post by dickyh on Sept 30, 2015 16:50:48 GMT -5
dickyh... That's great news!! It's awesome when we get another scooter back on the road. I hope the experience doesn't make you hesitant on doing mechanical work. Everyone here have made mistakes, and had to fix them. That's part of what makes scooters so fun. Replacement parts are very cheap. Thanks! Since I've had this scoot, I have done all of the mechanical works on it, so this was just more experience, however it was a bit intimidating, but now more confident than ever. One final issue I encountered that for some reason, I guess the new parts were a little shorter, is that the valve cover wouldn't fit over the bolts. I was determined not to let it stop me and I carefully covered everything, so not to allow any shavings in and literally cut off the top of the bolts as a temp fix and ordered shorter bolts to replace them with, which I will do on Saturday. And for some reason the scooter is a lot quieter than it ever has ever been, even before I set the gaps too large. One issue is that at idle there is some chattering coming from the valve cover, but it doesn't seem to affect the performance what so ever and about 2400 rpms it goes away. It is not from the tappets being too loose, cause I quadruple checked them and they are both at .004. and it is not the normal sound of tappets being too loose. I think because the bolts are longer than they were that the sound is transferring up them to the valve cover. If anyone has any other input on this PLEASE let me know. But the scoot has never run better. |
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Post by JoeyBee on Sept 30, 2015 17:21:44 GMT -5
A light tapping is good. Once the tapping goes away, that means it's time to check the lash clearance.
I have mine set at .004inch intake and .005inch exhaust. Never had a problem.
I will admit the first time I adjusted my valves I forget to confirm I was at TDC. Set the lash and fired her up. My scooter made the loudest cracking sound against the valve cover. The rockets completely loosened up and were hitting the valve cover. Luckily there was no damage and I learned a very important lesson about TDC. It has not happened again.
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Post by dickyh on Oct 1, 2015 18:50:30 GMT -5
OK, So what I thought was sound transferring from the head bolts is not it at all, and now I'm worried! I've attached a vid of the engine running and the noise it is making. It is as if something is loose and the noise is coming from underneath the engine. I thought it may be a roller rattling and checked but not the case. The scooter is running perfectly but the noise is got me worried. here's a thought... when i put the new head on, as I was setting the piston to TDC, the chain came off the sprocket inside the case. I was able to get it back on, and put everything else back together. The chain guides are in place and everything is running fine. was there are piece that may have fallen out and is rattling on the bottom? I have no clue! Anyone have an idea??? |
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Post by ghcoe on Oct 1, 2015 21:02:33 GMT -5
The sound seems to be in time with the exhaust note. Going by that, I would suspect a exhaust leak. I would verify that you have a good seal at the exhaust port on the head. I find wiggling the exhaust pipe as you tighten the flange bolts helps to get the gasket surfaces to mate up right. Again you want to tighten one bolt a little and then the other until they are snug. Also, loosing the muffler mounting bolts helps with getting the exhaust gasket to seal proper. It allows everything to move so you get a good seal. Just don't forget to retighten them up. Good luck.
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Post by JoeyBee on Oct 1, 2015 21:39:46 GMT -5
I also think is sounds like an exhaust leak. What type of seal did you use for the pipe? One of the doughnut type, or flange style? Flange Style  Doughnut type  |
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Post by dickyh on Oct 1, 2015 21:57:58 GMT -5
I used the flange style and the exhaust is very tight
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Post by ricardoguitars on Oct 2, 2015 3:08:51 GMT -5
I had a similar noise on my scooter, the problem was a worn down roller in the variator jumping around.
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Post by dickyh on Oct 2, 2015 5:37:09 GMT -5
I thought that was the problem as well, but they are brand new and I pulled the variator to check and all was fine.
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Post by dickyh on Oct 3, 2015 6:25:30 GMT -5
So I've been trying to figure out what this noise is and now I'm thinking that maybe it is possible that I am not at absolute TDC? The scoot starts and runs good, but is it possible everything is NOT set a TDC? Which could be the cause of the noise?
I'm getting ready to take it apart again, but really don't want to if I don't have to... I've read so many conflicting instructions about where TDC is really at on these engines. I thought the piston was at tdc when I put the head on but now I am questioning it. If I was off one tooth, would it still start and run but make this noise?
Desperate to get this resolved!
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