|
|
Post by rockynv on Sept 11, 2015 12:05:04 GMT -5
Car is 13 years old now so there could be a bad splice or a failed fuseable link somewhere hidden in the loom.
The relay should be in a 4 prong socket with two being to activate the electromagnets coils and the other two the power line to feed the horns and the load line going to the horns. When you pull the relay are you getting power from the line feed side of the socket?
|
|
|
|
Post by beenriding on Sept 11, 2015 14:25:14 GMT -5
Will try when I have the car. rockynv |
|
|
|
Post by beenriding on Sept 11, 2015 14:33:16 GMT -5
You're not the Lone Ranger. The diesel engine in my 2006 Jetta was efficient and bullet proof. It was fun to drive with the 5 speed manual. But...the electrical system was the opposite. Always a bulb blown somewhere. Always a problem with a fan blower motor or something similar. Brake pad replacement required special tools. Traded it in with a little over 90k miles. No plans to get another VW (newer than 1972). You aint kidding, always a bulb out somewhere, check engine light this check engine light that. I bought this car from my father and now he's gone out and gotten, the same year car, but in wagon form!!! On Monday he brought that over so I could tell why HIS check engine light was on. 'evap hose routing'. I bought a VAG reader cuz of the issue's we have. But hey, his wagon just turned 200k and it's a decent car. Ours 100k and it's still really nice, except for the little crap. |
|
|
|
Post by rockynv on Sept 11, 2015 23:48:08 GMT -5
I am driving a 1978 Fiat 124 Sport Spider powered by an Isuzu Turbo Diesel circa 1982 that has the old school Bosch Diesel Kikki Mechanical Fuel Injection system using a distributor injector pump direct injected into each cylinder.
How the owner prior to the previous owner shoehorned the diesel in and then spliced all the wiring together would make Rube Goldberg envious.
I have been fixing wiring, soldering, shrink wrapping and shifting the direct electrical loads they put through the ignition switch to relays on dedicated fused circuits for almost a year now.
A new 2 kilowatt diesel starter is quite a bit more expensive to replace than the 700/800 watt starters on most 4 cylinder gasoline powered vehicles. The wiring for keying the starter on a gasoline engine won't supply enough amperage to reliably engage the starter solenoid on the diesel so the solenoid and the starter quickly overheats and burns out. That's on a dedicated 40 amp circuit now which put a stop to constantly replacing $200 starters out of warranty.
On older cars you do have to pay attention to grounds or bulbs will be burning out more regularly. The ground straps do get brittle and snap after time so you do have to inspect and replace them along with clean up their mounting points. If you have bulbs regularly blowing check for water dripping on them and or low or extremely high voltage to them. If you do not get at least 12.2 volts and no more than 13.8 volts to a bulb with the engine running it is not going to last very long and you need to determine the why.
|
|
|
|
Post by beenriding on Sept 12, 2015 8:43:02 GMT -5
OK, I'm not an electrician, but am I going to let a stupid two wire horn defeat me? No, after checking, every possible option, I had one last try.... the V. A. G. It found a fault in steering wheel controls, reset that and hmmm horn works now!  I also found out that you can turn up the power on the radio amp from this little box! so I did  . I got this for 69$ and it's been an awesome tool.   |
|
|
|
Post by beenriding on Sept 12, 2015 8:51:38 GMT -5
rockynv wow Rocky, between scooter work and your 'frankencar' you must stay pretty busy! I think that;s great, a man needs a hobby or two to keep him going, something to look forward too. When I was growing up, the X 19 was my dream car, but only heard bad things about the brand till my love faded away... I was told to start using 'bulb grease' dielectric compound on my bulbs to prevent arc-ing between the posts, I did and will see if it helps.
|
|
|
|
Post by rockynv on Sept 13, 2015 9:52:34 GMT -5
The lack of computer electronics is what I like about the system in the old spider. The diesel engine being old school doesn't have a computer of any kind controlling it and only requires two things to make it run 12 volts initially to run the starter and glow plugs and 12 volts constant to keep the fuel valve open. If you manually bypass the fuel valve then once you start it no electricity is really needed to keep the engine running.
|
|
|
|
Post by horace on Sept 13, 2015 16:11:02 GMT -5
My Apology in advance for this, I LOVE the fact a VAG Reader is something a person can buy......... Sorry again, I can Offer no real diagnostic help here, just a silly juvenile DIY mindset.... I wish you the best in getting your wife to blow.... A horn..... In the car... Seems I can't help myself  Sorry Again. Honestly, A whole new setup maybe the best solution..... As long as the power is not draining somewhere, A small button on the dash, just for blowing the horn maybe the cheapest option, You did say Two horns exist on the Passat, Is it possible to only use one? The Tone should not really matter if it works? ( just a thought ) Although I'm sure you already thought of that I must admit, I did NOT read all advice given on this thread. Did you by chance talk/read/e-mail other VW owners about this issue? |
|
|
|
Post by rockynv on Sept 13, 2015 22:20:18 GMT -5
Glad that the VAG device was able to reset things and get it working however it is strange that the computer would interrupt horn operation even though the relay was triggering. That is a bit odd but is one of the wrinkles added to the equation by these computerized systems.
With modern cars you can't just carry a roll of duct tape and some bailing wire in a pouch with a screw driver and pair of pliers to keep them running any more.
Just imagine once they add health monitoring systems that shut it down if you appear too tired or ill to drive what trouble shooting will be like.
|
|
|
|
Post by beenriding on Sept 14, 2015 17:04:51 GMT -5
rockynv I bought the car from my parents, at one time they had some serious elect. problems, dash lights going out, door ajar alarm going off for no reason and more! Now we have an issue with door closed 'sensor', it's not just a push button the cancels the light like what most cars have oh no, to easy. So the dome light doesn't come on, or go off when the door is open/closed and gives us the added bonus of locking itself randomly, NEVER leave the keys in the car is our rule. I'm so glad I left my new LED flashlight in the underside of the car when I was working on it, now it's gone forever. Even so, it's a beautiful car and drives excellent. The running gear should give us another 100k as long as I can keep the computers from crashing.
|
|
|
|
Post by tvnacman on Sept 14, 2015 17:19:32 GMT -5
drop a female version of viagra in the tank, I hear good things.
look in the covers that cover the relays and fuses there maybe two horn fuses. You can pull the plastic covers off the relay and check it electrically. I skimmed did you check for power at the horn? Just because a relay clicks does not mean the no makes.
John
|
|
|
|
Post by horace on Sept 21, 2015 19:24:02 GMT -5
So um, about that Passat....... Is it a diesel TDI engine ? If so, it maybe a gold mine. Seems the VW holding company has a few issues with such vehicles. The horn maybe a very small problem......... I am not a fan of EPA rules but, this could be an opportunity for lots of customers........ Put in in storage for 10-30 years..... A Stock EPA cheated engine might be worth a fortune at some point.... Then again, If it's not the diesel version, Ignore me and add a train/boat horn with a melody |
|
