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Post by rcq92130 on Feb 24, 2015 13:12:46 GMT -5
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Post by lain on Feb 24, 2015 13:29:52 GMT -5
So I splice the + into the + on the ignition switch? - to the frame? Sense spliced into pickup wire before the CDI? |
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Post by rcq92130 on Feb 25, 2015 20:00:39 GMT -5
How did it work out?
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Post by lain on Mar 9, 2015 18:11:23 GMT -5
Got it all hooked up and working I think. I am not sure as to the accuracy, maybe my idle is high atm because I haven't set it lower since the temp rose but it is showing my idle rpm to be about 2.7 after warming up, and during warm up reaches up to about 3.5. While revving on the stand (haven't gone for a ride yet) it gets up to about 6. |
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Post by lain on Mar 10, 2015 14:05:52 GMT -5
Hmm... Either somethign is wrong with the tach or something... I just readjusted my idle speed, set it super low, right above the point where it stalls out, but the tach won't go under 2k... Could this be an actual reading or maybe something wrong with the tach? It doesn't make sense that it sounds a lot slower but the tach is stil saying about 2-2.5 at idle.
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Post by JoeyBee on Mar 10, 2015 14:25:22 GMT -5
This may be a stupid question, but is the new tach adjustable? Maybe because it is meant for a motorcycle it is reading high for a scooter.
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Post by rcq92130 on Mar 10, 2015 14:33:18 GMT -5
Got it all hooked up and working I think. I am not sure as to the accuracy, maybe my idle is high atm because I haven't set it lower since the temp rose but it is showing my idle rpm to be about 2.7 after warming up, and during warm up reaches up to about 3.5. While revving on the stand (haven't gone for a ride yet) it gets up to about 6. Sounds right. That is why I changed to a manual enricher - at warmup it got up to almost 4K - could feel the clutch trying to grab (so there would be a LOT of wear). Your carb dying at anything less that 2K is not good. Don't recall exactly, but a 50cc engine (even one that has been BBK'ed) should idle smoothly down to 1600 or 1400. Good thing you got a tach so you now can tell exactly what is going on! |
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Post by lain on Mar 10, 2015 14:40:04 GMT -5
Got it all hooked up and working I think. I am not sure as to the accuracy, maybe my idle is high atm because I haven't set it lower since the temp rose but it is showing my idle rpm to be about 2.7 after warming up, and during warm up reaches up to about 3.5. While revving on the stand (haven't gone for a ride yet) it gets up to about 6. Sounds right. That is why I changed to a manual enricher - at warmup it got up to almost 4K - could feel the clutch trying to grab (so there would be a LOT of wear). Your carb dying at anything less that 2K is not good. Don't recall exactly, but a 50cc engine (even one that has been BBK'ed) should idle smoothly down to 1600 or 1400. Good thing you got a tach so you now can tell exactly what is going on! I just tried to adjust the fuel/air mix screw. I turned it right about 1/4 of a turn. Turning right is supposed to make it lean right? Well I turned it right and it seems to be richer somehow when I takeoff. When I have it on the stand and give it about 10% throttle I can see a little bit of white smoke, not much just a very tiny bit, and it smells a lil bit more like burning gas than it did before. Could it be possible my mix screw on my carb is different? Turning it right makes it go in, turning it left makes it come out like it is supposed to. However while running when I let go of the throttle and decelerate I can hear it grumble sort of like a lean condition. Seems like I have some tuning to do or something but I am not sure where to start or how to go about it. |
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Post by lain on Mar 10, 2015 22:46:50 GMT -5
Hmm... I think I have electrical gremlins. I just went for a ride and now I can see the lights clearly at night. It looks like the lights on the dash and the running headlight and brake light are all running but all blinking in sync with the engine firing. Also the engine seems like it is going to die at low RPM while the lights are all blinking. What does this sound like to you guys? Loose wire somewhere that is involved with the running electricity? I remember before even when the RPMs were slow I would still have steady lights and dash lights. Or would this be something that would be a sign of a bad rectifier?
Also starting is becoming an effort. It seems like the engine just isn't firing until the RPMs are high enough to keep a consistent source of power. Like I can hear it like coughing to life, it sputters, turns, turns, sputters, turns, sputters, turns turns turns sputters and if I'm lucky it sputters a bit more consistently then starts up. When it starts up at first it is very slow and the lights blink a lot but dimly at the same time.
Would it be the tach since it is hooked up to the pickup? The wire for the tach is 18 gauge, I have the pickup wire, the wire that goes to the CDI and the tach pulse wire all tied together and soldered together and crimped in a cap and wrapped with electrical tape. I checked the wire, they are all tightly connected together. Maybe the extra line is sucking the power out of the pickup? But would that effect how much electricity the system was getting in the lights? The charging circuit seems to be completely fine or so it seems, I have gone on a few rides today and just checked the battery and it was full, which I did not expect since I had so much issue starting up today.
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Post by rcq92130 on Mar 10, 2015 23:42:38 GMT -5
Hmm... I think I have electrical gremlins. I just went for a ride and now I can see the lights clearly at night. It looks like the lights on the dash and the running headlight and brake light are all running but all blinking in sync with the engine firing. Also the engine seems like it is going to die at low RPM while the lights are all blinking. What does this sound like to you guys? Loose wire somewhere that is involved with the running electricity? I remember before even when the RPMs were slow I would still have steady lights and dash lights. Or would this be something that would be a sign of a bad rectifier? Also starting is becoming an effort. It seems like the engine just isn't firing until the RPMs are high enough to keep a consistent source of power. Like I can hear it like coughing to life, it sputters, turns, turns, sputters, turns, sputters, turns turns turns sputters and if I'm lucky it sputters a bit more consistently then starts up. When it starts up at first it is very slow and the lights blink a lot but dimly at the same time. Would it be the tach since it is hooked up to the pickup? The wire for the tach is 18 gauge, I have the pickup wire, the wire that goes to the CDI and the tach pulse wire all tied together and soldered together and crimped in a cap and wrapped with electrical tape. I checked the wire, they are all tightly connected together. Maybe the extra line is sucking the power out of the pickup? But would that effect how much electricity the system was getting in the lights? The charging circuit seems to be completely fine or so it seems, I have gone on a few rides today and just checked the battery and it was full, which I did not expect since I had so much issue starting up today. The tach "sense" line draws essentially zero current. Unless you have a short, that's unlikely to be the problem. You adjusted down the idle speed - first thought is you are just now seeing that things are not quite right because previously the idle speed was high enough to mask problems. But thew hard starting is another issue (maybe clue). You are at WAY colder temps - which complicates everything - but the really hard starting you describe sounds to me like the idle mixture is not right. Maybe the enricher circuit is not working right. You know how to remove it & check to see if the needle extends (amount 1/2 inch - you have to be looking carefully) when it warms up in a few minutes? You have the vacuum leaks all taken care of - right? Are you using one of John's "advancing" CDIs, or an OEM CDI, or a "high performance (i.e., advanced angle) CDI. The last of these is guaranteed to complicate starting. |
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Post by lain on Mar 11, 2015 0:40:49 GMT -5
Hmm... I think I have electrical gremlins. I just went for a ride and now I can see the lights clearly at night. It looks like the lights on the dash and the running headlight and brake light are all running but all blinking in sync with the engine firing. Also the engine seems like it is going to die at low RPM while the lights are all blinking. What does this sound like to you guys? Loose wire somewhere that is involved with the running electricity? I remember before even when the RPMs were slow I would still have steady lights and dash lights. Or would this be something that would be a sign of a bad rectifier? Also starting is becoming an effort. It seems like the engine just isn't firing until the RPMs are high enough to keep a consistent source of power. Like I can hear it like coughing to life, it sputters, turns, turns, sputters, turns, sputters, turns turns turns sputters and if I'm lucky it sputters a bit more consistently then starts up. When it starts up at first it is very slow and the lights blink a lot but dimly at the same time. Would it be the tach since it is hooked up to the pickup? The wire for the tach is 18 gauge, I have the pickup wire, the wire that goes to the CDI and the tach pulse wire all tied together and soldered together and crimped in a cap and wrapped with electrical tape. I checked the wire, they are all tightly connected together. Maybe the extra line is sucking the power out of the pickup? But would that effect how much electricity the system was getting in the lights? The charging circuit seems to be completely fine or so it seems, I have gone on a few rides today and just checked the battery and it was full, which I did not expect since I had so much issue starting up today. The tach "sense" line draws essentially zero current. Unless you have a short, that's unlikely to be the problem. You adjusted down the idle speed - first thought is you are just now seeing that things are not quite right because previously the idle speed was high enough to mask problems. But thew hard starting is another issue (maybe clue). You are at WAY colder temps - which complicates everything - but the really hard starting you describe sounds to me like the idle mixture is not right. Maybe the enricher circuit is not working right. You know how to remove it & check to see if the needle extends (amount 1/2 inch - you have to be looking carefully) when it warms up in a few minutes? You have the vacuum leaks all taken care of - right? Are you using one of John's "advancing" CDIs, or an OEM CDI, or a "high performance (i.e., advanced angle) CDI. The last of these is guaranteed to complicate starting. At the moment I am using a stock CDI and ignition coil. The weird thing is it starts up right away the first startup of the day or if I let it sit for a few hours. No I don't think there is a leak. The enricher is fine, it usually runs for about 30 seconds or so before cutting the extra gas. Also, not sure if this points to anything, but while I was trying to start one of the times today it was on the stand and facing uphill and I tried to twist the throttle a little bit while I tried to start and it made a loud pop like a backfire and I jumped back not expecting that of course. Sounded like a gunshot. I then pushed the scoot off the center stand and faced it downhill and it sputtered to life after about 5 seconds. It came to life at very low sounding RPMs like it was barely alive and all the running lights were very dim even though I had the headlight turned off. I had to rev it about 20% throttle for a second right after starting it up, then the lights came on a bit more but still pretty dim. I was able to ride home from there, the lights were fine when running on the road and it runs great above like 20% throttle on the road. Also when I stop at lights it seems to idle at about 2k even though it still sounds pretty slow. If I wait longer than a minute at a light when I try to accelerate at first it sputters a lot but not like it's dying but like it's choking on something, but then it goes back to running smooth until I hit another stop light. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Mar 11, 2015 0:45:03 GMT -5
The tach "sense" line draws essentially zero current. Unless you have a short, that's unlikely to be the problem. You adjusted down the idle speed - first thought is you are just now seeing that things are not quite right because previously the idle speed was high enough to mask problems. But thew hard starting is another issue (maybe clue). You are at WAY colder temps - which complicates everything - but the really hard starting you describe sounds to me like the idle mixture is not right. Maybe the enricher circuit is not working right. You know how to remove it & check to see if the needle extends (amount 1/2 inch - you have to be looking carefully) when it warms up in a few minutes? You have the vacuum leaks all taken care of - right? Are you using one of John's "advancing" CDIs, or an OEM CDI, or a "high performance (i.e., advanced angle) CDI. The last of these is guaranteed to complicate starting. At the moment I am using a stock CDI and ignition coil. The weird thing is it starts up right away the first startup of the day or if I let it sit for a few hours. No I don't think there is a leak. The enricher is fine, it usually runs for about 30 seconds or so before cutting the extra gas. Also, not sure if this points to anything, but while I was trying to start one of the times today it was on the stand and facing uphill and I tried to twist the throttle a little bit while I tried to start and it made a loud pop like a backfire and I jumped back not expecting that of course. Sounded like a gunshot. I then pushed the scoot off the center stand and faced it downhill and it sputtered to life after about 5 seconds. It came to life at very low sounding RPMs like it was barely alive and all the running lights were very dim even though I had the headlight turned off. I had to rev it about 20% throttle for a second right after starting it up, then the lights came on a bit more but still pretty dim. I was able to ride home from there, the lights were fine when running on the road and it runs great above like 20% throttle on the road. Also when I stop at lights it seems to idle at about 2k even though it still sounds pretty slow. If I wait longer than a minute at a light when I try to accelerate at first it sputters a lot but not like it's dying but like it's choking on something, but then it goes back to running smooth until I hit another stop light. sounds like a pretty rich idle mixture. Is the spark plug OK? Perhaps it is getting fouled at idle (oil?) and once it burns off all is well. I'd go through Alley's carb tuning guide again - esp. now that you can tell what your RPMs really are. |
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Post by lain on Mar 11, 2015 0:52:53 GMT -5
At the moment I am using a stock CDI and ignition coil. The weird thing is it starts up right away the first startup of the day or if I let it sit for a few hours. No I don't think there is a leak. The enricher is fine, it usually runs for about 30 seconds or so before cutting the extra gas. Also, not sure if this points to anything, but while I was trying to start one of the times today it was on the stand and facing uphill and I tried to twist the throttle a little bit while I tried to start and it made a loud pop like a backfire and I jumped back not expecting that of course. Sounded like a gunshot. I then pushed the scoot off the center stand and faced it downhill and it sputtered to life after about 5 seconds. It came to life at very low sounding RPMs like it was barely alive and all the running lights were very dim even though I had the headlight turned off. I had to rev it about 20% throttle for a second right after starting it up, then the lights came on a bit more but still pretty dim. I was able to ride home from there, the lights were fine when running on the road and it runs great above like 20% throttle on the road. Also when I stop at lights it seems to idle at about 2k even though it still sounds pretty slow. If I wait longer than a minute at a light when I try to accelerate at first it sputters a lot but not like it's dying but like it's choking on something, but then it goes back to running smooth until I hit another stop light. sounds like a pretty rich idle mixture. Is the spark plug OK? Perhaps it is getting fouled at idle (oil?) and once it burns off all is well. I'd go through Alley's carb tuning guide again - esp. now that you can tell what your RPMs really are. I remember not long ago I adjusted the needle in the carb to be a little higher (put the clip on the 2nd from bottom out of 5 slots on the top of the needle) to help with the issue where it was bogging on takeoffs before. It seemed to help a lot then, but it was also like 10 degrees then. Today it was 45, tomorrow it's going to be 50!!!  |
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Post by rcq92130 on Mar 11, 2015 1:03:49 GMT -5
sounds like a pretty rich idle mixture. Is the spark plug OK? Perhaps it is getting fouled at idle (oil?) and once it burns off all is well. I'd go through Alley's carb tuning guide again - esp. now that you can tell what your RPMs really are. I remember not long ago I adjusted the needle in the carb to be a little higher (put the clip on the 2nd from bottom out of 5 slots on the top of the needle) to help with the issue where it was bogging on takeoffs before. It seemed to help a lot then, but it was also like 10 degrees then. Today it was 45, tomorrow it's going to be 50!!! Again, that only adjusts the MAIN jet mixture, not the idle mixture. You said your problem is at idle & with open throttle it's ok. |
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 11, 2015 2:43:39 GMT -5
I agree, since you had it tuned for cold weather, and it's now warming up, you will have to adjust the a/f again for the warmer weather. You will be leaning it out a bit for the summer, warmer air has less oxygen per volume, colder has more, so you need less fuel when it's warm and more fuel when it's cold. Generally speaking, you do the change in tuning from cold to warm and visa versa when average daily temps are around 60 degrees. Above 60, leaner, below 60 richer.
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