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Post by lain on Dec 23, 2014 18:13:21 GMT -5
the pick up coil wire while cranking should be about .5vac , the power wire (red/black) should be 30+ vac while cranking . Take 4 jumper wires , put all 4 ends together , then connect to the following: engine , frame , -coil and negative battery . check power and pulse at the stator connector and at the cdi plug . John What does connecting those 4 things together with jumpers do beside make a more direct path for the negative? I do not have a voltometer, I have an analog multimeter but not sure what to set it to to check these things. |
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Post by lain on Dec 23, 2014 18:31:10 GMT -5
I checked everything and think I may have found the problem, but I do not know what is causing it, or maybe my first theory is correct. After taking apart the fuel and vacuum lines, I found all of the hoses to be completely leak free and tight. I removed the alarm from the pickup coil wire to rule that out, no change at all in the symptoms. I got it started twice with a lot of effort and once started it stayed on but even if I turned it off then tried to start it it would go right back to having major issues starting. Then I decided to check the spark plug. I took it out, looked burnt black after the first successful start up, brand new spark plug btw just put it in today. Ran it for about 10 minutes before turning it off and going right back to having issues starting. Brand new spark plug, after idling once for 10 minutes roughly:  So then I took the spark plug out and put the end of the spark plug against the nut my ground wire is connected to and saw no spark while using A7TC 3 electrode spark plug (brand new today), then I tried with my old iridium (CR7HIX) plug and saw a VERY dim red spark that fired consitently red and very dim. And when I say very dim, I was outside with no lights, no sun, turned my light off, and even in the pitch black darkness the spark was VERY dim. I tried 2 ignition coils, the stock black one and the orange racing one, both with the same results. I will post videos once the videos copy and convert because my friend's phone make videos with huge file sizes that won't upload. What could cause a very dim or no spark? I have checked the wires, they all look good. I am thinking maybe it is my CDI like I originally thought? Here are the videos I promised: After trying about a dozen or so times it finally gets started but has issues and once turned off won't start again (skip to the end to see it not start again). Video also shows closeups of everything I could think of while it was running. Not sure if you can see it but there is a very faint red spark (using iridium cr7hix): |
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 23, 2014 18:33:23 GMT -5
the pick up coil wire while cranking should be about .5vac , the power wire (red/black) should be 30+ vac while cranking . Take 4 jumper wires , put all 4 ends together , then connect to the following: engine , frame , -coil and negative battery . check power and pulse at the stator connector and at the cdi plug . John What does connecting those 4 things together with jumpers do beside make a more direct path for the negative? I do not have a voltometer, I have an analog multimeter but not sure what to set it to to check these things. If your problem is coming from a poor or weak ground and you do the jumper trick your spark should go back to normal . John |
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Post by lain on Dec 23, 2014 18:37:36 GMT -5
What does connecting those 4 things together with jumpers do beside make a more direct path for the negative? I do not have a voltometer, I have an analog multimeter but not sure what to set it to to check these things. If your problem is coming from a poor or weak ground and you do the jumper trick your spark should go back to normal . John Ah so I do this to check to see if it poor ground. Do I remove the wire one by one from each connection point to try to locate the problem area? By the way take a look at the videos I just posted. |
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 23, 2014 18:41:47 GMT -5
post a pic of your meter
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 23, 2014 18:45:03 GMT -5
I did not see the red spark , I did not finish watching the long video .
use the jumpers in addition to the existing harness/wires connection .
John
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 23, 2014 18:51:34 GMT -5
in the battery box is the cdi and I think it is dc shoot a picture of it , show the wires and colors .
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Post by lain on Dec 23, 2014 18:53:42 GMT -5
My meter:  Yeah the first video is long but I wanted to make sure to get a video of it starting while having issues then running and showing how it warms up and then show how it wouldn't start up again and was having the same issues even after warming up. |
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Post by lain on Dec 23, 2014 18:59:27 GMT -5
in the battery box is the cdi and I think it is dc shoot a picture of it , show the wires and colors . The CDI I have is AC fired, it is an orange racing CDI for 50-150cc scooters. Everything is wired correctly, I'd take a picture but I already brought the battery inside and put it on the charger. There are 2 positive wires and 1 negative wire connected to the battery when I have the battery in there. The wires connected to the CDI are in the harness firmly, and the pickup wire has been rewired back to the regular factory hookup so there is no alarm interrupting it anymore. The fuse is good, and I have a couple spares just in case. |
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 23, 2014 19:39:53 GMT -5
the red numbers on the bottom is what you want to use to check for power and pulse . The 10 scale for checking pulse . the 250 for power . Do you need to know how to determine the actual voltage .
Pic of the cdi with the wires
John
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Post by lain on Dec 23, 2014 20:06:27 GMT -5
the red numbers on the bottom is what you want to use to check for power and pulse . The 10 scale for checking pulse . the 250 for power . Do you need to know how to determine the actual voltage . Pic of the cdi with the wires John Here is the picture you requested:  I think I should be able to read the voltage, I use this meter to test the voltage of the battery whenever I think I have battery issues to read about 13v output it usually has. Actually since I'm talking about it... I just checked, after fully charging the battery output shows about 14v. The pink and grey wires underneath the CDI are the wires for the alarm controlled switch. Sorry I forgot to label those too. |
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 23, 2014 20:38:24 GMT -5
I hope you zeroed the meter before you took the voltage reading .
John
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Post by lain on Dec 23, 2014 21:18:09 GMT -5
I hope you zeroed the meter before you took the voltage reading . John I don't think I did because I do not know what that means. Also, do I test while I try to start or while it is not running? Or do I need to get it running to test it? Could this issue also be caused by a corroded stator? I am starting to think there's a high chance it could be corroded due to salt and rain and the many miles I have put on it in all sorts of weather. I have never even taken the flywheel off so I have never seen my stator. Can a scooter run without a stator? I'm just wondering, if I disconnect it would it still be able to start without it so i can try and rule it out and possibly start it? Or because this scooter is AC fired it would not run without a stator because the stator is what makes the AC electricity? Just want to get a better understanding before I attempt to find a stator and remove it. Also what size nut does the stator usually have so I can get that size socket for my impact wrench, and do I need a flywheel puller or is there another way to remove it? |
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 24, 2014 1:08:45 GMT -5
Did you make sure the wire connecting the your coil to the spark plug boot was screwed in all the way ? Also this wire may need to be removed , trimmed and screwed back together . this will give you nice good connections between the coil and the plug boot.
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Post by lain on Dec 24, 2014 9:52:35 GMT -5
Did you make sure the wire connecting the your coil to the spark plug boot was screwed in all the way ? Also this wire may need to be removed , trimmed and screwed back together . this will give you nice good connections between the coil and the plug boot. Yes, I always make sure it is all the way in (because that's how she likes it haha). I used 2 different ignition coils with the same exact results, but I would like to know how to do what you just said so I can try it anyways. Do I have to solder them on? What kind of solder would work? All the soldering jobs I've tried to do on the scoot have fallen apart from vibration. My next steps I am going to do are jumping all the grounds, then checking what I can with my meter though even after looking up guides I don't quite understand what I am doing. I have a new stator otw just in case it is that, my friend ordered it for me for xmas lol |
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