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Post by falstaff on Jul 4, 2014 18:25:38 GMT -5
Ok, just got back from seeing this scooter in person for the first time. Yeaah it looks like a scooter left outside for 6 years. So, the good, the bad and the ugly, so to speak.
It was dirty/dusty like you would expect. There was a small amount of rust around some of the screw at the exhaust. Other than that didn't notice it anywhere else on my initial inspection.
The good first. Gas tank was dry, so although he had added some gas (high test) to start it at first, it was gone and I saw no rust in the tank after shining in a very bright led flashlight. The bad on this is it is possible some ran through the carburetor and as such probably gunked it up a bit. Someone mentioned $40 dollars for a new carb. Any links to one that is correct?
Next, Tires looked good. No cracking or crazing on the outside, from what I could see, though dry rot can occur from the inside out.
The front brake handle was stuck at first but did start moving with just a tad extra effort, though it does not spring back to position, but remains depressed. It could be the caliper or the cable, hopefully not the master cylinder. This scooter has disk brakes front and back and ABS (real or chinese version is unsure). The rear brakes appear to function fine.
The front end plastics were off so while the bike was covered for most of it's life, for the last year it has not been. But he does have all the screws for reassembly.
The battery looks pristine and was charged one time, I would need to invest in a new one. Also the fuse on the negative cable is missing but that is an easy fix.
The engine, when I removed the cover under the seat (which though a bit faded and with a couple of small areas in the seams coming apart is in better than expected condition) is covered in dust. But, here is the real kicker, He had done his research and had replaced all the fuel and vacuum lines, when he first got it, along with the replacing the spark plug and changing the engine oil and the gear box oil. The engine oil looks clean and has a nice light amber hue. The fuel and vacuum lines at still in great shape. Here is the question, can I hose off the engine or should I blow it off with compressed air? I also will be getting a new spark plug and air filter for it.
I did try use the kick start to see if the engine was not seized and it turned over fine, not seized. By the way, strangely he had no idea that there was a kick start. I advised him that almost all 150 and below scooters do and that it is usually only the 250's and up that don't.
Lastly, the MCO. Pristine as the day it was printed and his name was nowhere to be seen. So, all he has to do is hand it to me and I can register and title the bike in my name. He also had all the other documentation that came with the scooter.
So, I see potential here for being able to get this bike up and running. And for an outlay of a few parts and $150, I think I may be getting a great deal. I will be picking it up tomorrow to see if I can get it running.
Opinions?
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2008 Roketa MC54B 257 (10,000 miles and climbing)
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Post by bhinch on Jul 4, 2014 19:44:26 GMT -5
Go for it...nothing ventured nothing gained....enjoy the ride...
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Post by jimboeau on Jul 4, 2014 20:29:48 GMT -5
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Post by rockynv on Jul 4, 2014 22:41:29 GMT -5
Then remove the spark plug and pour a teaspoon of penetrating oil down tbe cylinder and kick it gently a few times to work it in putting the plug back when your done letting it sit a few days to a week to ensure the piston rings are free. If he ran that little bit of gas out of it you may be OK then with the carb and your bigger problem at first may be to get it to prime the fuel pump which would be vacuum operated on that bike and take quite a bit of kicking to get the fuel flowing again. Change the oil put gas in it with a 3 ounce per gallon treatment of Berryman B12 in the fuel. www.berrymanproducts.com/products/gasoline/b-12-chemtool-carburetor-fuel-system-and-injector-cleaner/Once you get it running before you ride it to help clear up any dried up oil and ensure that oil is reaching all the critical areas I would put some Z-Max in the engine oil to help get things clean and fully lubed. I have used this on cars that were sitting with just a smear of burnt orange oily paste in the crankcase not having the oil checked or changed for a few years and got them cleared and running smoothly in very short order so that we still got another 50,000 miles from them without burning oil so I can give it a very high personal recommendation. Do not put it in and let it sit over night as it needs to be run in and heated immediately to have it circulate and penetrate. My brother did not believe it was any good until I dumped some in a 12 hp Briggs he got on Craigs List and had given up on as a loss. Moments after I put the Z-Max in the valves started working smoothly and all the roughness and shaking went away. The valves were sticking and the piston rings were apparently not free from sitting a real long time so it was not able to run smoothly as the valves were not always closing and the rings were not sealing very well. The results sometimes can be quite dramatic or they can clear up slowly during the 15 to 30 run in cycle. This Briggs engine he was about to put in the scrap bin has been running reliably for over five years now in heavy use mowing a few acres a week. Tire are five years old so do not bet you life on them. The tires are cheep and easy to replace compared to what you will be risking by riding on them which is the rest of your life which they could end or make one of constant misery for the remainder of your days. A lot to risk on a set of five year old scooter tires that are of so little value. |
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Post by falstaff on Jul 6, 2014 16:26:39 GMT -5
Thank you for all the advice. I brought the scooter to my house yesterday morning and started in on the engine right away. Changed all the lines, the gear oil and spark plug. Cleaned her up and while the new battery is charging I figured what the heck. So I put about a gallon of premium gas in her, primed the carb, twisted the throttle a few times, grabbed the left brake handle, turned on the key and on the third kick, she sputtered to life and ran like a champ. I let her warm up, taking it real easy on the throttle. When she had been running about 20 minute (during which time I started checking out the electrical as in what worked. more on this later) I shut her down, checked the oil and tried her again. she came to life on the first kick.
I think I may have a scooter here.
Next is to get the brakes in order, do a more thorough check on the electrical and replace the tires. Big question, can I do the tires myself or is this something I need to take to a shop to have done?
Thank again to all and I will get some picks up once she has her plastics back on. Sorry, no nudie picks!
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Post by falstaff on Jul 6, 2014 18:39:41 GMT -5
Another small update. I opened up the front or right brake master cylinder, which has not been working. It contained a powder which I assume is dried up brake fluid. To the experts: can this be fixed or do I need a new right brake assembly?
Also the left or rear break works but the sensor/switch that tells the break light to come on is missing though the wire is there. Do they sell just the sensor/switch?
I also found a small hose or line disconnecter and hanging down by the air breather at the rear of the scooter, so i need to run that and see where it should connect.
Finally the horn is not working and may need to be replaced. But that is an easy inexpensive fix.
More later.
The gauges all seem to be working. On a funny side note, the radio works. Not biggie but nice to know. The horn is not working
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"In HIS Grip"
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Post by peaceful on Jul 8, 2014 14:58:59 GMT -5
 Sounds to me like you got a pretty good deal, for sure. 2yrs ago I was riding a Chinese 150 and got talking to a man in the restaurant and he said he had a scooter, would I like to see it. He'd put it in the shed almost 20 yrs ago. I went and looked at it and it was a Honda Helix 1986. It was very dusty and of course being here in MI had seen a little climate. Long story Short he said Take it if you want it.
It took a battery, of course, a rear tire, brake light switch and arguing with State over why it had not been liscened (He never did) and I found a crack in the frame. Come to find out the motor was a newer one an d the state insisted (demanded) that it be titled as assembled (&^%$##$%^&) So I now have 2000 Helix with low mileage and a lot of scratches from where probably some youngn's played with it before it went in the shed.. So since then I've bought one headlight bulb, replaced the front tire, added an accessory plug and 4 or 5000 miles. Caint hardly get rid of the smile. Sold the Chinese scooter and have really enjoyed the Honda 250 as it is almost bullet proof engine
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Post by falstaff on Jul 9, 2014 13:46:41 GMT -5
Thank you. Yes I do think it was a good deal.
One question. Does anyone have or is there a video on how to hook up the wiring harness on this scooter?
If worse comes to worse I can figure it out as I take out the old one that has become brittle and is falling apart. I will also be replacing all the dash board switches as I go as some appear to not be working anymore.
In articular the electric start does not appear to be working even with a charged battery. It will start up wit the kick but it would be nice to get the electric start working as well.
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Post by spandi on Jul 9, 2014 14:19:47 GMT -5
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Post by falstaff on Jul 9, 2014 17:18:08 GMT -5
That last linked thread was very informative. Thank you!
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Post by spandi on Jul 9, 2014 19:49:48 GMT -5
You're welcome. (Glad I could help out)  |
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Post by falstaff on Jul 13, 2014 21:07:07 GMT -5
Latest update. Scooter running nicely now. I even hopped on it and rode it around the back yard today.  Both brakes are working well now, but the rear brake is giving me fits a la the switch. I have tried several switches and they all exhibit the brake light on all the time issue. Something having to do with the brake handle not reaching the barrel switch piston. Going to try to shave or file away at the tabs that lock the switch in place to see if I can get the switch piston further into where it attaches to the master cylinder. If that doesn't work then I will just go with a whole new master cylinder with the box type switch. Any ideas??? Ordering a new horn as I cannot get the original to work. Have installed new tires. Looking at not doing the wiring harness till another time. Think I'll just break out the hot glue gun a reinforce the connectors that are showing wear. Question. If I want h4 or LED headlights, do I just hard wire them in or is the an adapter/connector? Had a wind storm the other day that blew the fiberglass(?) nose cover over and one of the mounting tabs broke off. Any suggestions on a fix? Thanks to all. |
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Post by oldchopperguy on Jul 15, 2014 13:51:29 GMT -5
After sitting so long, you'll probably have several things to iron out, like Alleyoop and others have mentioned. But... For $150 it should certainly be worth fixing! You WILL have to go over EVERYTHING, but with no miles, it's worth some serious tinkering.
Enjoy!
Leo in Texas
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Post by shalomdawg on Jul 15, 2014 18:51:26 GMT -5
howdy, i'll make a silly suggestion as to why the starter does not seem to work. that electric line at the brake lever may be the one which muct be connected to relay power to the starter selenoid? that and the sidestand not being retracted?
lotsa miles and smiles to ya
ken
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Post by falstaff on Jul 15, 2014 21:05:20 GMT -5
Actually, I was able to get the engine to start electrically now. It was the old brake switch on the left side being gone. I can start it fine with the starter button now.
But as I stated in my last post, I am now dealing with the old brake light being on all the time thanks to the left brake switch ( I have narrowed it down to that one). I have tried 2 different switches from Scrappydog and have concluded that the handle is not contacting the switch in order to turn off the light when the brake lever is at rest, not squeezed.
Funny thing is that if I slide a small screw driver into the space between the handle and the switch, the light goes out. So, that is my conclusion, bad contact between handle and switch. I even lubricated the switch piston to no avail. I guess I could shim it somehow, but how long would that last and would it pass inspection?
If anyone has any suggestions, I would love to hear them. Right now I'm thinking replace the left brake master cylinder with one that has that box style switch. Any Idea?
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